Visiting Palau has been one of the most remarkable and affirming experiences of my life.  Spending hours in the ocean observing turtles, sharks, rays and a host of other marine species, including cuttlefish changing colour and form to their immediate environment, has proven to be one of the greatest joys and wonders in the world.

I grew up watching and entranced by the TV series ‘The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau’.  Such was the impression Cousteau’s series made on me, as a very young child my first pet was called ‘Calypso’, after his fabled research vessel. My experiences in Palau brought back these vivid memories directly. With a particular snorkelling experience on this journey, a fellow traveller commented that this must be “the day you fell in love with sharks” – and it truly was.

Throughout the course of the last 12+ months, Journeys With Purpose has worked alongside the world-class organisations of Island Conservation and Scripps Institution of Oceanography, in association with Re:wild, on a ‘Restoring Island-Ocean Ecosystems’ journey to champion and support the Island-Ocean Connection Challenge (IOCC). 

The IOCC aims to restore at least 40 globally significant island-ocean ecosystems from ridge to reef by 2030 to benefit people, wildlife and our planet.  This goal is delivering tangible action and successes, and signifying more widely the essential connection between island health and ocean health. Holistically restoring islands delivers outsized benefits for wildlife, oceans, people and climate impacts.  

Key IOCC messages:

• Healthy oceans need healthy islands
  • island and marine ecosystem elements cycle into one another, sharing nutrients vital to the plants and animals within them. Invasive species damage these fragile ecosystems and work to remove these in order to  restore balance and endemic species such as the Megapode bird is vital.
• Everything is connected – Indigenous Peoples and local communities know this
  • Indigenous Peoples and local communities have long understood and managed their natural resources in the context of island-to-sea connections. As Wayne Andrew, Micronesia Director of OneReef says “Community is not people alone. Community is a place, the reef. The respect of all that is so important”. This is rooted in their traditional knowledge and wisdom, including ancient oral stories such as the “Megapode Bird and Hawksbill Turtle”.  It is essential to support local leadership and communities in the decisions they wish to make to protect these vital ecosystems.
• Collaboration is essential
  • taking a collective approach to sustainable science and the importance of collaboration with local communities to achieve more holistic results.
• Emerging Science and Impact Monitoring
  • global scalability of work informed by science. Emerging research shows people, wildlife and marine environments benefit when island-ocean connections are restored.
• Islands are on the frontline of environmental crises
  • a staggering 41% of critically threatened species are found on islands
  • 27% of all languages come from island communities
  • surrounding coral reefs are home to 25% of all marine life

LEARN MORE ABOUT THE IOCC

We travelled with leadership from Palau’s local communities, Island Conservation, Scripps Institution of Oceanography and supporters of these organisations. The collective experience of our time with these communities, and snorkelling and diving, was quite remarkable – a true spirit of togetherness and bonding developed that we will treasure for the rest of our lives. And importantly to take forward into action.

My key takeaways are thus:

• People make Places
  • this is never more true than in Palau. There are approximately 20,000 local inhabitants on Palau’s islands, and they demonstrate an incredible bond, cohesiveness and strength together. This is brilliantly encapsulated by the local Hatohobei community, who rejected sizeable bribes to thwart a significant illegal fishing operation – “… we’re doing it for our people, for the future generations.”
• Impact at Scale
  • the Palau National Marine Sanctuary (PNMS), effective 1 January 2020 with support from the Palauan government and several NGOs, is one of the largest marine protected areas (MPA) in the world.  It was the first MPA of its kind, protecting 80% of a country’s national waters in a fully protected no-take zone. 
  • the PNMS protects a vast array of marine life and unique geological features within its over 475,000 km2, an area larger than Germany, Japan, Iraq, Sweden, etc. Eight hundred marine vertebrate species call the PNMS home, including nearly 30 different marine mammals and 60 shark and ray species, though these numbers are likely underestimated, as the biodiversity of the PNMS remains understudied.  
  • all achieved with the spirit of just 20,000 Palauans.
• Be Brave
  • as above, the Palauans have been incredibly brave in their approach with their communities, natural environment and ambition. Very sadly, this is not the norm around the world, but is, however, a lesson for us all – trust our hearts and do the right thing to help deliver today a viable future. We must turn the currency of hope into the currency of action.

I have observed these three takeaways in the great conservation and rewilding endeavours around the world.  It can be done. I urge us all, in the strongest possible manner, to support the work of the people of Palau, Island Conservation and Scripps Institution of Oceanography – brilliant people, doing brilliant work, in brilliant places.   My eternal gratitude to our partners and supporters on this journey, and in particular to the exceptional dedication, hospitality and warmth of our local Palauan partners at Island Conservation Palau, Ebiil Society, OneReef, Koror State DCLE (Department of Conservation and Law Enforcement), Ngarchelong State Rangers and many others.   Palau, officially the Republic of Palau, is an island nation in the Micronesia region of Oceania in the western Pacific, comprising an archipelago of over 350 islands.  Little known to many of us, it is one of the most remarkable ecosystems and communities on Earth.  Please connect here – connect@journeyswithpurpose.org – to understand how you can contribute, and visit Palau. 

GET IN TOUCH TO START YOUR JOURNEY

A tribute to the people of Palau:-  in memoriam to Prince LeeBoo of Palau, 1763 to 1784.

With the consent of his father King Ibedul of Koror, Prince LeeBoo departed Palau with Captain Henry Wilson and the crew of the Antelope to London, England on 12 November 1783.  Whilst in London, Prince LeeBoo became Palau’s de facto ambassador of goodwill to England, and a scholar.  However, LeeBoo’s plan of returning to Palau to spread knowledge and scientific discoveries to his people ended abruptly when the young prince succumbed to smallpox in the winter of 1784.  The remains of Prince LeeBoo and his plans lay buried today in the courtyard of St. Mary’s church in Rotherhithe, London, England.

Despite the dilapidation of time, the spirit of Prince LeeBoo continues to live in the hearts of the people of Palau – their immense strength of community, positive impact and fortitude.  His story, and purpose in life, remains widely told amongst the people of Palau today.  

DISCOVER OUR HOSTED JOURNEYS

This article was retrived from Duncan’s Field Notes.

Journeys With Purpose offers immersive conservation and ethical travel experiences. Through private and hosted trips with pioneering conservationists, guests experience rewilding and restoring biodiversity in the wildest corners of the world. Our “Seven Worlds, One Planet” approach is a global curriculum focused on recovering and conserving vibrant landscapes, biodiversity, wildlife and livelihoods across all seven continents.

Jellyfish Lake, or Ongeim’l Tketau, nestled within the Rock Islands of Palau, is one of the world’s most captivating marine environments. This small, isolated lake on Eil Malk Island has become an emblem of both natural wonder and environmental vulnerability. Covering approximately 12,000 square meters, it is connected to the ocean through subterranean limestone channels, but remains sufficiently secluded to have evolved a delicate and distinct ecosystem. Among its most celebrated inhabitants are the golden jellyfish (Mastigias papua etpisoni) and moon jellyfish (Aurelia sp.), which have adapted to their surroundings in unique ways. These golden jellyfish are known for their daily sun-following migration, a behavior designed to maximize exposure for the symbiotic algae within their tissues, a remarkable example of the interdependence that thrives in marine environments.

The lake’s fragile ecosystem, however, has not been immune to change. Environmental stressors, particularly those tied to global climate phenomena, have repeatedly threatened the jellyfish population. In 2016, a severe El Niño-induced drought led to a dramatic decline in the number of golden jellyfish, forcing authorities to close the lake temporarily to tourism. The population eventually began to recover, and by 2018 the lake was reopened. Yet, the pattern of fluctuation has continued. As of early 2025, fewer than 5,600 golden jellyfish were recorded in the lake, an alarming drop from the millions typically present. Scientists and conservationists attribute the current decline to elevated water temperatures that disturb the sensitive balance within the lake, raising concerns about long-term impacts on this unique ecosystem.

Despite these challenges, Jellyfish Lake remains a focal point for ecotourism, conservation, and scientific inquiry. Visitors from around the world still make the journey to snorkel alongside its otherworldly inhabitants, although strict regulations are in place to protect the site. Scuba diving is prohibited to avoid disrupting the stratified lake layers, particularly the lower ones, which contain hydrogen sulfide toxic to both humans and jellyfish. Sunscreen and body products are also discouraged to prevent contamination. Entry permits issued by the Koror State Rangers help regulate foot traffic while funding ongoing conservation and research efforts.

Palau’s approach to conservation extends far beyond Jellyfish Lake. In January 2024, the country became the first to ratify the High Seas Treaty, a groundbreaking international agreement designed to protect ocean areas beyond national jurisdiction. This commitment is a continuation of Palau’s long-standing environmental leadership, exemplified by its establishment of one of the world’s largest marine sanctuaries and its ongoing dedication to preserving marine biodiversity. In the context of these broader efforts, Jellyfish Lake becomes more than a tourist destination, it is a symbol of resilience and a living case study in the interconnectedness of environmental health and global climate change.

Travelers to Palau are often enchanted not only by Jellyfish Lake but also by the vast natural and cultural riches of the archipelago. From the iconic Blue Corner dive site teeming with sharks and manta rays to the tranquil beauty of the UNESCO-listed Rock Islands, Palau offers a wealth of immersive experiences. The country’s cultural history also plays a vital role in the visitor experience, with ancient stone monoliths, traditional architecture, and community-led crafts inviting deeper engagement with the island nation’s heritage.

As we grapple with the accelerating impacts of climate change and environmental degradation, places like Jellyfish Lake underscore the urgency and value of robust conservation efforts. The fluctuations in jellyfish populations reflect a broader ecological volatility that is no longer confined to isolated ecosystems. Palau’s stewardship of its marine environments, through policy, tourism regulation, and global advocacy, serves as a model for balancing human engagement with environmental responsibility. In preserving Jellyfish Lake, Palau preserves not just a unique species or a popular destination, but a profound story about nature’s fragility and the shared responsibility to protect it.

The Republic of Palau, a small island nation in the western Pacific, has long stood as one of the United States’ most steadfast allies in a region marked by increasing geopolitical competition. Bound together through the Compact of Free Association (COFA), Palau and the United States have enjoyed a uniquely close relationship that has combined financial aid, military support, and diplomatic cooperation for decades. Yet in recent years, this partnership has come under strain. As the Trump administration signals shifts in foreign aid and climate policy, doubts are growing in Palau over the reliability of the United States as a long-term partner. In the context of rising seas and mounting Chinese influence, Palau’s future now hangs in a delicate balance; caught between historical allegiance and contemporary uncertainty.

The foundation of U.S.–Palau relations was laid in 1947, when the United Nations designated the United States as the administering authority over the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, which included what would later become Palau. Following its independence in 1994, Palau signed the Compact of Free Association with the United States, granting it significant budgetary support, access to federal programs, and the protection of U.S. military defense. In return, Palau has offered strategic access to its territory, allowed high enlistment of its citizens into the U.S. military, and aligned itself closely with American positions in international forums. The COFA has no expiration date, and the most recent Compact Review Agreement (CRA) signed in 2023 committed nearly $889 million in support through 2043, funding critical sectors such as education, public health, and environmental protection.

Despite this strong formal agreement, the political climate in Washington has led to significant anxiety within Palau. Under the Trump administration, foreign aid has become an increasingly politicized issue, with sweeping cuts proposed across global development programs. Palau has already felt the sting of this retrenchment, with several ocean monitoring and environmental initiatives suspended due to slashed funding. These changes come at a time when Palau is most in need of international support, its 20,000 citizens living on low-lying islands face the existential threat of rising sea levels, and the nation is under persistent diplomatic pressure from China to abandon its recognition of Taiwan. Palau’s president, Surangel Whipps Jr., has called for continued U.S. engagement and urged President Trump to witness firsthand the climate impacts affecting his country. “Let’s go snorkeling and look at things,” he suggested in a recent interview, describing climate change as a “slow death” for small island nations.

Whipps’s call is more than symbolic. It underscores a growing concern among Pacific allies that U.S. policy is drifting inward, driven by short-term domestic politics rather than long-term global leadership. Palau has, against considerable pressure, maintained its diplomatic ties with Taiwan, a rare stance among Pacific nations, and has advocated for environmental sustainability, including a moratorium on deep-sea mining until more scientific evidence is available. Yet, rather than receiving recognition or reassurance, Palau now watches as the Trump administration distances itself from climate commitments, exits key international agreements, and diminishes the very aid programs that have underpinned the U.S.–Palau partnership.

The implications of these policy pivots extend beyond Palau. In a region where China is rapidly expanding its influence through infrastructure investments, diplomatic outreach, and economic aid, the U.S. retreat creates a strategic vacuum. “If Trump is concerned about leadership, this is where he’s going to lose serious ground,” President Whipps warned. His remark highlights a broader strategic dilemma: if long-standing allies like Palau cannot count on U.S. support during times of crisis, they may be forced to look elsewhere, even if reluctantly.

Palau’s commitment to democratic values, environmental leadership, and U.S. partnership remains clear. However, the nation cannot shoulder the burden of climate change and geopolitical pressure alone. The 2023 Compact Review Agreement and the COFA Amendments Act of 2024 still represent powerful instruments for U.S. influence and shared progress, but only if they are backed by consistent, dependable action. Symbolic gestures of support must translate into sustained investment, especially in areas like climate resilience, education, and health systems.

As the United States reassesses its role in the world under the leadership of President Trump, it faces a choice: to reaffirm its commitment to allies like Palau or risk ceding influence to powers less concerned with democratic ideals and long-term sustainability. For Palau, and for the global community confronting the climate crisis, the stakes could not be higher. If American leadership is to mean anything in this century, it must begin by listening to its most vulnerable allies, and standing with them when it matters most.