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Issue 136 - September 2026

SEVENSEAS Travel Magazine — No. 136 September 2026

Cover of SEVENSEAS Marine Conservation and Travel Magazine, No. 136, September 2026

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SEVENSEAS Marine Conservation & Travel Magazine

No. 136 · September 2026

Welcome to the September issue of SEVENSEAS Marine Conservation & Travel Magazine. This month we travel to Greenland, where the ice sheet has now lost mass for thirty consecutive years while the argument over who should own the island has been conducted almost entirely in the language of security and minerals. New survey work puts roughly 16,000 fin, humpback and common minke whales along the East Greenland coast in the summer of 2024, and the authors read it as a regime shift rather than a recovery. Ten days of screening measurements in the port of Ilulissat averaged 60,000 to 70,000 ultrafine particles per cubic centimetre, figures released by the Clean Arctic Alliance and not peer reviewed. Three new airports and a first tourism law have made the country more reachable than it has ever been, and no easier to travel well. Elsewhere, Trinidad and Tobago has surveyed the deep half of its own territory for the first time, led by its own scientists, and come back with 25 confirmed cold seeps and twenty suspected new species awaiting description. The largest global assessment of reef condition yet assembled finds the interval between bleaching events closing faster than reefs can rebuild in it, while a genomic record from Mo’orea shows selection acting within a single generation and is careful about what that does not mean. And much more, in one issue.

Feature destination

Greenland

Four stories from Kalaallit Nunaat: what the environmental ledger actually holds, what the whales are doing on the east coast, what the port air in Ilulissat contains, and what a traveller should know before booking.

Icebergs of varied size floating in flat open water under a pale Arctic sky

01

The Environmental Bill for Owning Greenland

The ice sheet has now lost mass for thirty consecutive years, while the sovereignty argument runs on security and minerals. The other ledger: narwhals that stop feeding eight kilometres from a ship, and a Ramsar wetland with a drilling programme aimed at it.

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The raised tail fluke of a humpback whale above dark water with a glacier calving front behind

02

Sixteen Thousand Baleen Whales Off East Greenland, and the Fish That Brought Them

Aerial surveys put roughly 16,000 fin, humpback and common minke whales along a coast where all three were once unusual sightings. Heide-Jørgensen and colleagues attribute the shift to capelin following warmer water, and read it as a regime change rather than a recovery.

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Small vessels moored along the quay in the port of Ilulissat with the town on the rock behind

03

Air Pollution in Greenland’s Ports: What Ten Days of Measurements Found in Ilulissat

Screening measurements in the port averaged 60,000 to 70,000 ultrafine particles per cubic centimetre, with one reading at 212,000. The Clean Arctic Alliance released the figures, which are not peer reviewed and do not apportion the pollution between ships, port machinery and road traffic.

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A man standing beside a sled dog on open ground at Sisimiut on the west coast of Greenland

04

Greenland: A Conservation Traveller’s Guide to Ice, Fjords and a Country Opening Up

Three new airports, a first tourism law and 179,873 visitors in 2025, a number Visit Greenland flags as soft. There is no road between any two towns, and that single fact shapes every price and most of the arguments the country is having about tourism.

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Also in this issue

Nine more from the September issue

A pale Graneledone octopus with a domed mantle moving across dark sediment on the deep seafloor

05

A Country Looks Into Its Own Deep Sea for the First Time

The first locally led deep-sea expedition in Trinidad and Tobago’s history mapped 11,335 square kilometres of seafloor, about 13 per cent of the national marine territory, and visually confirmed 25 cold seeps. The team reports 20 suspected new species, three possibly new genera, all awaiting formal description. Figures as reported by Schmidt Ocean Institute and the expedition team.

Read more
A shallow tropical reef of branching and boulder corals in clear blue water

06

Coral Reefs Are Losing the Time They Need to Recover, Largest Ever Global Assessment Finds

The largest global assessment of reef condition yet assembled reports that the interval between bleaching events is closing faster than reefs can rebuild in it. The constraint it identifies is recovery time, not heat alone.

Read more
A diver in scuba gear collecting samples from bleached coral colonies on a reef

07

The corals that survived Mo’orea, and the limits of what that means

A before-and-after genomic record across 349 colonies shows selection acting on a reef within one generation of the 2019 heat wave. The authors are explicit that tolerance proved polygenic and habitat specific, and that this is not a recovery plan.

Read more
A cluster of rock oysters attached to dark intertidal rock in Fiji

08

One Name, Two Oysters: DNA Settles a 176-Year Indo-Pacific Question

Sequencing resolves a naming question left open since 1850 across the Indo-Pacific. Curtin University reports the correction, which changes how these rock oysters should be recorded in fisheries and monitoring data.

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Participants seated around a conference table at a fisheries roundtable meeting in Seoul

09

Korean Tuna Roundtable Advances Sustainable Fisheries Priorities Ahead of Critical Reassessments

At its ninth meeting the Roundtable reviewed progress on MSC certification conditions, endorsed a joint position statement to the Western and Central Pacific Fisheries Commission, and began preparing members for electronic monitoring. Reported by Ocean Outcomes, republished with permission.

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Registration panel for the North American Summit on Collaborating with Wildlife

10

Registration Opens for the North American Summit on Collaborating with Wildlife

The CW Summit runs 2 to 4 February 2027 in Corpus Christi, Texas, co-hosted by the Oceans and Wildlife Institute and the Wildlife Restoration Foundation, with a field trip to the port’s wildlife rescue operations. Registration and presenter applications are open.

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Cover of the book Tin Can Coast

11

Tin Can Coast: The Fisheries That Made California, and the Ones They Emptied

A new book from Bloomsbury traces the California fisheries that built an industry and the stocks they emptied, and what that history still explains about how fisheries are managed now.

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Climate Film Festival logo, a blue circular mark made of stacked arcs with the festival name across it

12

The Climate Film Festival Returns, and the Ocean Runs Through the Programme

The third edition runs 18 to 21 September during Climate Week NYC, with 52 films and 33 premieres. Opening night follows a Tuscan fisherman sinking carved marble onto the seabed to snag illegal trawl nets.

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Students in high-visibility gear standing together on the deck of the research vessel RV Investigator

13

From Uncertainty to Purpose: How One Voyage Changed My Direction in Marine Science

Te Huika Mason of Curtin University spent thirteen days aboard RV Investigator between Fremantle and Hobart, one of twenty students on the CAPSTAN sea training programme, and writes about what a working research vessel settled that a classroom could not.

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