In Conversation with Venetia: A Journey Through India’s Tiger Conservation Heartland

Journeys with Purpose Managing Director Venetia recently returned from her first trip to India, where she experienced one of the world’s greatest wildlife recovery stories. Over four transformative weeks, she tracked leopards in Rajasthan, journeyed deep into Madhya Pradesh’s tiger reserves and learned from the conservationists and local communities shaping the future of India’s wild spaces.

This instalment of our In Conversation series follows Venetia into the heart of Central India’s tiger country, where ancient landscapes, rural communities and modern conservation science converge.

Interview with Venetia on Tiger Conservation in India

Where did you go, and what was the purpose of the journey?

We went to Madhya Pradesh in Central India to learn about their tiger conservation project, then up to Rajasthan and finally ending in Goa.

I heard about this amazing project where they relocated thousands of villagers from this area of Central India to create a wildlife corridor for the tigers. They wanted to create a safe space where there would be no human-wildlife conflict. The villagers would be in an area that is safe, and the tigers would then be able to increase their numbers. Over the past few decades, this project has tripled the number of tigers in India, which is amazing. So, I spent some time with the people who were the movers and shakers behind that project. We never do a hosted journey somewhere that we haven’t experienced ourselves first.

Fewer people go down to Madhya Pradesh, but the story there is so amazing. What’s so exciting about it is that it’s a backstage conservation journey. It has a charm to it because you can see they have so much passion for this park and the wildlife. Safaris are highly regulated, and they’re showing guests this unspoiled area, and you’re not staying in super luxurious lodges with beautiful shiny Jeeps, and everything is set up for you.

We also went to a beautiful leopard camp in Rajasthan, Sujan Jawai. I got to see my first leopard, which was an incredible experience. It’s all rock terrain and massive hills, and the leopards hide in the rocks and come out and bask in the sun. That was very special.

What were your first impressions?

I immediately noticed the warmth and vibrancy of the people. That was definitely the case all around. People were super hospitable and welcoming. We also had incredible cooks and food.

We all know India is a vibrant country, but there’s such diversity…Mumbai has amazing birds in the heart of the city, Central India has dense jungle, then there are plantations and amazing farmland, then the rocks and desert of the north – so there is an amazing contrast of landscapes and wildlife. It deserves multiple trips, because there is so much to experience.

What did your itinerary look like?

When you’re exploring such a vast country, your time is so precious to be able to experience it in the best way. Here is my recommendation for a killer first time in India:

• Reni Pani Lodge in Satpura National Park is the only lodge in Central India where you can ride horses. We rode through a canyon with an incredible diversity of wildlife, which was so magical. It was early in the morning, the sun was coming up, we were surrounded by wildflowers, and then we stopped and had brunch by the laker. That was a highlight.
• Jamtara Jungle Lodge in Pench National Park, which is owned by Amit Sankhala, the grandson of ‘The Tiger Man’ Kailash Sankhala, who launched the conservation project in tiger country. It was luxurious but with a personal feel, giving you that elevated safari experience.
• Kana Jungle Lodge is run by an amazing couple called Tarunn and Dimple. It’s a charming spot with that personal touch—you really get a sense of staying with true conservation pioneers. Tarunn is a lifelong naturalist guide and knows the area like the back of his hand, and his wife Dimple, who has been living here with him for close to 30 years, has an incredible knowledge of indigenous medicine. She home-brews delicious teas and remedies, such as ginger tea in the morning and chai in the afternoon, made over an open fire. It felt like we were staying in a home, which was a very cool experience.
• Sujan Jawai is a luxury tented camp that pioneered conservation tourism in the Jawai region. The reserve has brought leopard sightings from 20 in 2013 to over 1,000 in 2023. Guests are given field books to note down their sightings, and their ambition is to expand to more areas of land.
• Chanoud Garh in Rajasthan is a 300-year-old palace that was in disrepair until three siblings, Swati, Mahiraj and Jairaj, restored it. It has so many heirlooms, engravings and paintings, as well as horoscope-covered scrolls that are hundreds of years old. You get a glimpse into the life of a family that became rulers following the Merta War in 1745.

What did you learn about the conservation work or the people leading it?

Project Tiger is a remarkable success story. In the 1970s, visionary conservationist Kailash Sankhala recognised that India’s national animal, the tiger, was vanishing due to nationwide hunting. He became a campaigner and alerted the Indian government to this, eventually working with the Prime Minister, Indira Gandhi, to launch the Project Tiger strategy.

This was pioneering—they secured inviolate spaces for tigers to roam freely without threat. The Voluntary Village Relocation Programme was a critical part of this because many core areas of India’s tiger reserves were (and still are) home to human communities. Families were given the choice to relocate, either through direct financial packages or government-supported resettlement. This resulted in less human-wildlife conflict, and the communities were empowered with greater access to development. This is so much more than a simple story of conservation. It’s a complex, evolving conversation about community, wildlife and coexistence.

I had the privilege of seeing where the villages once were and where nature is now rebounding. Tigers can run free, and since the strategy was launched, their numbers in India have more than doubled. Despite huge adversity, this man committed his whole life to this project, and now his grandson owns Jamtara. Watch the documentary ‘Tigerland’ if you’re interested in learning more—it was featured at the Sundance Festival.

Or better yet, if you want to see it for yourself, we can connect you with the ecologists and biologists who created these national parks and tiger and elephant breeding programmes. We’re now in a great position to see these projects.se

Was there a moment that felt especially powerful, moving, or transformative for you or someone else?

Which place, project, or person here would you recommend to someone passionate about conservation?

Spending time at Kanha Jungle Lodge with Tarunn and his wife, Dimple, learn firsthand about the relocation project and recovery of tiger numbers. It’s amazing to visit the former settlements where nature is now rebounding. I’d also recommend spending time with the guide Adam, who is responsible for mapping out the reserve around Sujan Jawai. He spent half a year living in the area before there was any building or infrastructure tracking the leopards for hours and hours. There were only a handful in the first year, but he was able to learn their behaviour patterns and where they spent time. Then he co-created Sujan Jawai to give guests that feeling of being immersed in this landscape without conflicting with the wildlife.

Who do you think this kind of journey is best suited to, and why?

I would recommend this journey to intrepid, curious travellers who seek to engage with the natural world on a deeper level and see one of the greatest big cats in the world.

Closing Thoughts on Venetia’s Conservation Trip in India

Venetia’s journey offers a rare glimpse into a side of India that many travellers overlook: the conservation projects restoring balance between communities and the spectacular wildlife that coexists with them. Beyond the well-trodden Rajasthan loop, those passionate about conservation should look to the dense forests of Madhya Pradesh, Central India’s conservation heartland, where Project Tiger first took root. Here, dedicated ecologists and local communities have worked together to protect India’s national animal, shaping a story of resilience and renewal that continues today.

Given the country’s vastness and complexity, travelling with experts who can connect you to the right places, people and perspectives makes all the difference. Whether you’re a seasoned conservationist or want to see the country more meaningfully, a deeper India awaits.

Interested in Exploring India’s Wild Places?

Journeys With Purpose offers private, conservation-focused journeys to India, with tailor-made itineraries built around your passions. We also plan hosted journeys—subscribe to our newsletter for updates and inspiration for your next trip.

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