Connect with us

Issue 124 - September 2025

Drowning My Ego In The Maldives

Freediver swimming above a large shark in the Maldives

Coming up shallow in The Philippines

Have you heard of the Maldivian island Fuvamullah? Possibly, as it may have recently graced your IG algorithm. If you’re like me and have an affinity nay obsession with sharks then it most probably has. Well, I turned that obsession into adventure and graced this island with my enthusiastic presence with the sole intent on having experiences with these gorgeous Tigers. Some say, “Stupid.” I say, “Shhh I’m dreaming here.” I’m not going to say much in this particular article about those experiences other than that they were life changing! But what I am more interested in focussing on, for this article, were the non Tiger Shark dives.

I was so focused on Tigers, as I eagerly booked my package to Fuvamullah, that I didn’t even consider the other animals just waiting for me; most specifically Thresher Sharks. Threshers were always on my radar, I mean, with that elegant tail and eyes of a Victorian child about to die of consumption, how could you not be obsessed? But what I was unhappily aware of was how difficult it was to get remotely close to these damn things.

Facing Fear in the Blue

I remember one dive specifically, where we were trying to find Hammerheads. I remember this dive, in particular, because it was not one of my favourites. I could even say it was one of the scariest experiences of my life. Technically, I probably didn’t have anything to worry about but technically doesn’t really cut it when you’re 40 meters down, narced, and questioning life choices.

The dive started out as all dives should, with a very detailed briefing. It seemed straight forward enough; dive down deep, swim away from the reef into the blue, and look for sharks. Or I guess anything of interest. That’s exactly what I did and found myself exactly in that position. I was very deep, a little past my comfort zone, I was definitely narced which in this case only served to heighten my anxiety, and I was swimming into current, thus, blowing through air rather quickly. Everyone was in front of me, as for some reason I found myself in a group of bloody olympic swimmers, and I was desperately looking for anything to make this scenario worth it.

I had visions of getting low on air and having to surface by myself; having to swim three km back to the island on the waters surface; in the sun; looking like a delectable seal. This was worrying because, you may recall, which creature it was I was originally here to see (a very large apex predator who patrols round this island all day). Do The Maldives even have seals? I couldn’t google right then. This could not be how it ends!

Then I saw a tail swish below me. A Thresher shark! It was completely distinguishable by that stunning tail (fun fact: did you know Threshers slap each other with their tails during sex—those kinky minxes?). I only saw a quick swish before my NDL got low and I started shallowing up. But it was a brush with beauty I wouldn’t forget easily.

I was still pissing myself with fear as I got into the lower 30 meters. As I steadily climbed, I finally started to calm down and realised I was okay. I surfaced shaken but alive, and I had a revelation, as I scoured the surface looking for the other divers in my group—maybe being a real diver isn’t about conquering your fear of the extreme, it’s about knowing when to politely swim away from it.

Shifting Philosophy

I, thusly, did the logical thing; I fled to the Philippines. It was not just to escape the currents; I needed to reset. What I learned, in between packing my gear and nursing a bruised ego (so bruised I had to call my scuba Mom, Dad, and Auntie for a little sympathy) is this: knowing your limits isn’t weakness, it’s grace.

At this point in my life I was craving a quiet descent, the slow unfurling of light on coral, and the kind of dive where your breath is a lullaby. Now, of course, I wanted sharks, let’s not be crazy! I had a feeling, though, that I was capable of working smarter not harder.

I’ve taught yoga for most of my life and something about where I was after The Maldives felt similar. It reminded me of something I noticed in yoga as well; this tendency I had to chase complexity. The more acrobatic the shape, the more impressive it felt. We twist, balance, contort, to find stillness that was already available. But the practices that change us aren’t always the dramatic ones. Sometimes it’s the gentleness, the quiet of breath work, the moments of not pushing but of releasing.

Deeper, Darker, Dangerous in diving has a place, it’s an adventure sport for a reason. But we can seek what we want from the ocean, the experiences that better us, on our own terms. Once I stopped chasing asana, my yoga practice lost a lot of the stress that was woven into the fabric of my asana. When I let that go I really started to enjoy my moments on the mat more. It was time to put this personal philosophy to the test, at depth.

Meeting the Threshers

I booked Malapascua, Philippines pretty off the cusp. Most of my students were out of town for the summer so I had a little free time and decided it was time to put my plan into action. I won’t bore you with the details but after a lovely Cathay flight and a less than lovely bus ride from Cebu City to the very north of the island, I was on the very lovely island of Malapasuca.

Every time I land on an island like this I have to ask myself ‘is this the one I don’t leave?’ The island was definitely beautiful and everyone super friendly, I mean it’s the Philippines after all, but I was focused on one thing and one thing only—San Miguel nay I mean Thresher Sharks!

I booked with a dive company introduced to me through Ewan (the name I gave my ChatGPT), which was reputed for being the first ones on the dive sites and getting everyone into the water first. Allowing you to be there with as few divers as possible.

It was a 4:00 wake up but these are the sacrifices we make—begrudgingly, but we make them. The boat ride to the dive site was about an hour and with calm waters I used most of that time to nap. Beginning the dive we descended down a line to the top of a pinnacle and made our way over to one side to wait for the guests of honour.

The visibility was good, the water was warm, and the current was very friendly. I drifted along at 15 meters enjoying myself immensely despite the knot in my stomach as the Threshers were definitely common but not guaranteed.

The knot evaporated in about 6 minutes because, as we floated over to the side of the pinnacle, a stunning image emerged over the rocks. A blue, no green, no silver, NO all the colours, bullet of a haunted eyed Thresher began swimming slow circles so close to us, looking for cleaner fish to do their duties. This island is the only place in the entire world where Thresher Sharks come this close to the surface to be cleaned of parasites after a long night of hunting.

It swam towards us for a brief second and then disappeared. “Mission accomplished,” I thought, but no, the show was not over! Over the next four days I had the absolute privilege of coming face to face with these beauties. I will be honest, sometimes a little too face to face; as it turns out. Under the right circumstances Threshers are not the shy delicate types their reputation describes them as. They were playful and curious and again are just the puppies of the sea. Don’t touch the puppies!

Lessons from the Ocean

On my last diving day I had had some of the most beautiful underwater experiences of my life, and as I hung there in the blue, a Thresher’s silver tail passed by like a slow pendulum. I realised I was still—calm, comfortable, and enjoying my breath.

I hadn’t chased this moment, I hadn’t fought for it. I’d simply moved in the right ways, at the right time, and it had found me. Sometimes, the rarest wonders arrive when you stop thrashing the waters. Stay soft, stay in love with the ocean, because she is not a prize to be won with depth but a companion to be met in stillness.

Issue 124 - September 2025

SEVENSEAS Travel Magazine – No. 124 September 2025

Our September 2025 issue is a mix of stories that made us stop and think. A sawfish stuck in a culvert in Tampa Bay that scientists fought to save. A lone sailor taking a catamaran across the Pacific because he believes conservation should be bold. A canyon off Argentina that turned out to be crawling with species no one had even named yet. And art that reminds us water is memory and healing. Each piece feels alive, like the ocean itself. And we hope you will find something in here that stays with you.

Marshall Islands: Pacific Ocean Time Machine

Vibrant coral reef ecosystem in Marshall Islands marine sanctuary showing diverse fish species including groupers and sharks swimming among colorful corals at Bikar and Bokak atolls

In a groundbreaking conservation move, the Marshall Islands has established its first national marine sanctuary around the remote Bikar and Bokak atolls, protecting 48,000 square kilometers of pristine Pacific waters. National Geographic’s 452-dive expedition revealed ecosystems so untouched they represent “the ocean of 1,000 years ago” – harboring the region’s largest green turtle colonies, healthiest coral reefs, and abundant deep-sea sharks. Using traditional Reimaanlok knowledge alongside cutting-edge science, this sanctuary offers hope that protection and sustainable use can coexist in our changing ocean. [Read more]

Marshall Islands’ Nuclear Exodus

Greenpeace ship Rainbow Warrior with Nuclear Free Pacific banner, Marshallese people boarding during Operation Exodus evacuation from Rongelap atoll 1985

Forty years ago, 350 Marshall Islanders made an extraordinary choice – abandon their ancestral home of Rongelap atoll rather than continue living with radioactive contamination from decades of U.S. nuclear testing. Operation Exodus saw Greenpeace’s Rainbow Warrior ferry an entire community 180 kilometers to safety, defying American authorities who dismissed the evacuation as environmental manipulation. This defining act of resistance put human faces on nuclear consequences and forged an enduring partnership between Pacific islanders and global activists that continues today. [Read more]

Marshall Islands Leads Pacific Climate Diplomacy

Marshall Islands President Dr. Hilda Heine speaking at microphone during UN Ocean Conference panel discussion in Nice, France, wearing gray blazer with Marshall Islands flag pin

At the forefront of global climate advocacy, the Marshall Islands leverages centuries of traditional Pacific knowledge to address modern ocean challenges. President Dr. Hilda Heine’s recent address at the UN Ocean Conference in Nice demonstrated how Indigenous wisdom in weather forecasting, sustainable fisheries, and navigation offers vital solutions for a planet in crisis. Despite contributing minimally to global emissions, these island nations face existential threats from sea level rise and ocean acidification, making their voice both urgent and essential in international climate policy. [Read more]

Marshall Islands, a Pacific Sanctuary of Biodiversity

Remote and rarely visited, the Marshall Islands offer pristine lagoons, coral reefs, and uninhabited atolls teeming with marine life. Divers can explore WWII shipwrecks now transformed into living reefs, while communities balance traditional culture with the legacy of U.S. nuclear testing and the challenges of climate change. For travelers seeking biodiversity, this Pacific nation is a sanctuary like no other. [Read more]

Drowning My Ego in the Maldives

Obsessed with tiger sharks, the author traveled to Fuvahmulah, Maldives, only to find deeper lessons in fear, humility, and unexpected encounters with thresher sharks. A follow-up journey to Malapascua in the Philippines revealed these elusive predators up close in calmer waters, teaching that sometimes the ocean’s rarest wonders come not through pushing limits but through patience and presence. [Read more]

The Magnificent Coral Spawning Phenomenon

Each August, Flower Garden Banks National Marine Sanctuary in the Gulf of Mexico hosts one of the Caribbean’s largest coral spawning events—an underwater snowstorm of eggs and sperm released in perfect lunar synchrony. This dazzling display fuels genetic diversity, and critical research into how corals reproduce in a changing climate. For divers, it’s a rare chance to witness the ocean’s power of regeneration firsthand. [Read more]

Argentina’s Hidden Canyon Reveals 40 New Species (Ft. Patrick Star!)

A Schmidt Ocean Institute expedition to Argentina’s Mar del Plata Canyon stunned scientists and the public alike, documenting coral gardens, suspected new species, and even a starfish that looked like Patrick Star. Nearly 18 million people tuned in live, making it one of the most watched deep-sea explorations ever. The discovery highlighted both the ocean’s vast unknowns and the urgent need to protect them from human impact. [Read more]

Endangered Sawfish Trapped in Tampa Bay Saved by Scientists

A 7.4-foot smalltooth sawfish, trapped in a Tampa Bay wetland, was safely rescued and released by a team from Havenworth Coastal Conservation, FWC, and NOAA. The endangered fish was tagged with a transmitter to track its movements and sampled for research, offering rare insights into a species now found almost exclusively in Florida. With sawfish populations under severe pressure from habitat loss and mysterious “spinning” behavior, every individual’s survival matters. [Read more]

Two Oceans Aquarium Foundation Co-Hosts Seal Health Week

Cape Town hosted the first-ever Seal Health Week, a collaboration led by the Two Oceans Aquarium Foundation and partners to strengthen marine mammal conservation in Southern Africa. Experts trained in disentanglement, veterinary care, and monitoring, while also engaging the public on reducing plastic waste and supporting marine protected areas. The event showcased how shared knowledge and teamwork can create lasting impact for seals and wider ocean ecosystems. [Read more]

Why Healthy Oceans Are Our Best Defense Against Hurricanes

Two decades after Hurricane Katrina, one lesson stands out: healthy seas protect our shores. Wetlands, reefs, and seagrass buffer storm surge, yet the systems that safeguard them are being dismantled. As hurricanes grow stronger and more costly, investing in ocean health is no longer optional but essential for coastal resilience. [Read more]

Scientists Develop Solutions for Mining Water Contamination

Arctic offshore drilling platform in pristine northern waters surrounded by snow-covered mountains highlighting environmental protection needs

Researchers in Canada have tested nature-inspired filters called permeable reactive barriers to clean toxic mining wastewater in Arctic conditions. Using gravel, iron, and wood chips, the system removed more than 95% of arsenic and trapped uranium effectively at just 5°C. While nitrate proved harder to manage, the study shows how semi-passive, low-cost treatments could protect northern waterways as mining expands across fragile Arctic ecosystems. [Read more]

Record-Breaking Waterman Sets Sail Solo for Sea Conservation

South African ocean conservationist Chris Bertish has embarked on a 2,800-mile solo journey from San Diego to Hawaii aboard The Wildcat, a 20-foot beach catamaran with no cabin or shelter. The TransCat Expedition 2025 is the first attempt of its kind, combining extreme endurance with a mission to raise funds and awareness for marine protection, reef restoration, and global education initiatives. [Read more]

The Global Ocean Development Forum Exhibits “Healing Waters”

At this year’s Global Ocean Development Forum in Shandong, China, artist Selva Ozelli’s Healing Waters series will be exhibited at the Lixian Art Museum from September 7–10. The paintings highlight conservation efforts in Chesapeake Bay and honor the extinct Maryland Darter, using art as a call to heal waters worldwide. The exhibition runs alongside the international forum on sustainable ocean development. [Read more]

Hunting and Angling Leaders Speak Out Against Senate Plan

Top voices from the hunting and angling community, including leaders from MeatEater, Trout Unlimited, and the National Wildlife Federation, have released a joint video urging the U.S. Senate to abandon proposals to sell public lands. Representing millions of hunters and anglers, they warn that once these lands are lost, they are gone forever, and call on Congress to end large-scale land sale efforts immediately. [Read more]

Population Growth Might Impact Availability and Access

A new Forum paper by Mark Cromer explores how rising population, and social media trends are making America’s open spaces harder to access. Once-public refuges are increasingly treated as luxury amenities, with overcrowding, development, and budget cuts threatening equitable access to nature for all. [Read more]


Continue Reading

Feature Destination

Feature Destination: Marshall Islands Elevated Pacific Traditional Knowledge at UN Ocean Conference

Marshall Islands President Dr. Hilda Heine speaking at microphone during UN Ocean Conference panel discussion in Nice, France, wearing gray blazer with Marshall Islands flag pin
Photo credit: IISD/ENB – Kiara Worth

During the third United Nations Ocean Conference (UNOC3), the Republic of the Marshall Islands (RMI) brought international attention to the importance of traditional Pacific knowledge in confronting today’s ocean and climate challenges.

Traditional Knowledge Meets Modern Science

Her Excellency Dr. Hilda C. Heine, President of the Republic of the Marshall Islands, took part in Ocean Action Panel 7, which focused on the connections between ocean, climate, and biodiversity. She highlighted the essential role of traditional knowledge systems in Pacific communities and encouraged greater integration of these practices with modern science. President Heine pointed out that Pacific societies have long relied on this knowledge in areas such as weather forecasting, sustainable fisheries, navigation, and agriculture.

She called on global financing institutions to recognize the value of Indigenous approaches and to invest in Pacific-led solutions.

Triple Planetary Crisis Impact

Her remarks came as Pacific Island nations continue to experience severe consequences from the triple planetary crisis: climate change, biodiversity loss, and pollution. Countries like the Marshall Islands, which contribute very little to global emissions, are among the most vulnerable to sea level rise, marine heatwaves, ocean acidification, and extreme weather events.

UNOC3 was held in Nice, France from 9 to 13 June 2025. Co-hosted by France and Costa Rica, the conference brought together heads of state, scientists, civil society leaders, Indigenous representatives, and private sector actors to mobilize urgent and science-based action to protect the ocean. The conference concluded with the adoption of the Nice Ocean Action Plan, a negotiated political declaration and a registry of voluntary commitments from all sectors.

Ocean-Based Climate Solutions

President Heine also spoke about the term “ocean-based climate solutions,” urging more clarity around its meaning. She noted that the concept is often too vague and may include controversial practices like geoengineering, which are not supported by Pacific leaders. However, she said there are approaches that the region is eager to pursue, such as Ocean Thermal Energy Conversion and tidal and wave energy systems. These options, she explained, remain out of reach for many due to serious financial and technological barriers.

She called for countries to submit more ambitious Nationally Determined Contributions (NDCs) to help keep the 1.5-degree warming target within reach. She also emphasized the importance of honoring the commitments made at COP28 in Dubai, including those related to phasing out fossil fuels.

Pacific Climate Leadership

According to President Heine, Pacific climate strategies are already highly ambitious. She suggested that ocean-based adaptation and renewable energy systems could be a strong part of these strategies, but underscored that meaningful progress will require access to international finance.

The Marshall Islands was part of a large Pacific delegation in Nice, joined by leaders from the Cook Islands, Federated States of Micronesia, French Polynesia, Niue, Palau, Samoa, Tuvalu, and others. The Secretariat of the Pacific Regional Environment Programme (SPREP) provided support to the group as part of the One CROP collaboration.

Call for Global Action

President Heine concluded by stressing the need for deeper global understanding of the ocean, the importance of grounding policy in science, and the urgency of turning commitments into action to protect marine ecosystems for present and future generations.

UNOC3 built on the progress made during previous UN Ocean Conferences, hosted in New York in 2017 by Sweden and Fiji, and in Lisbon in 2022 by Portugal and Kenya. For more information, visit: https://sdgs.un.org/conferences/ocean2025

Continue Reading

Feature Destination

Feature Destination: Marshall Islands Creates First Marine Sanctuary, Protecting Two of the Most Pristine Ecosystems in the Pacific Ocean

Vibrant coral reef ecosystem in Marshall Islands marine sanctuary showing diverse fish species including groupers and sharks swimming among colorful corals at Bikar and Bokak atolls
Photo by Enric Sala/National Geographic Pristine Seas

Earlier this year, the Republic of the Marshall Islands announced protection of two of the country’s remote and northernmost isles, untouched havens of biodiversity sheltering the nation’s largest green turtle nesting colony and deep sea sharks. The country’s first national marine sanctuary — which covers 48,000 square kilometers of water — is an exceedingly rare glimpse into a pristine part of the Pacific Ocean.

The area around the two uninhabited atolls, Bikar and Bokak, and the nearby deep sea will be fully protected from fishing.

“The ocean as our ancestors knew it is vanishing,” remarked Dr. Hilda Heine, President of the Republic of the Marshall Islands. “Without sustainable ocean ecosystems, our economy, stability and cultural identity will collapse. The only way to continue benefiting from the ocean’s treasures is to protect it. I am proud of our country’s first marine sanctuary, which certainly won’t be its last.”

Benefits of Marine Protection

Marine protected areas (MPAs) where fishing and other damaging activities are banned restore marine life within their boundaries. That, in turn, replenishes nearby fish populations and improves local fishing, provides jobs and economic benefits, and builds resilience against a warming ocean.

“The ocean is life,” said Glen Joseph, Director of the Marshall Islands Marine Resources Authority (MIMRA). “The world’s ocean is being degraded, but we are able to bring part of it back by recognizing that protection and food production are not mutually exclusive. Safeguarding areas of high biodiversity delivers benefits to local communities who rely on fish and other aspects of a healthy environment. Our future depends on protecting our ocean.”

The Reimaanlok Conservation Approach

The Marshall Islands is conserving its atolls as part of its unique conservation approach, known as Reimaanlok. Meaning ‘look towards the future,’ the Reimaanlok process relies on cultural insights and traditional knowledge to drive conservation. As part of this approach, coastal communities work together to design their own resource management plans for how to sustainably and equitably use their local terrestrial and marine resources.

Scientific Expedition Reveals Pristine Ecosystem

During an expedition to Bikar and Bokak in 2023, National Geographic Pristine Seas and MIMRA gathered data about marine life from the surface to 2,340 meters depth — from lagoons and coral reefs to far offshore. The team of scientists and filmmakers used visual SCUBA surveys of coral reefs and open water environments; dropped cameras to the sea floor; counted and identified seabirds; tested genetic material found in the water; and explored little-known portions of the underwater environment in a submersible.

“Bikar and Bokak’s coral reefs are a time machine, like diving in the ocean of 1,000 years ago,” remarked Enric Sala, National Geographic Explorer in Residence and founder of Pristine Seas. “In these remote atolls, we saw the healthiest coral, giant clam, and reef fish populations in the central and western Pacific. They are our best baselines for what the ocean could look like if we truly let it be.”

Research Collaboration and Findings

During its expedition, Pristine Seas collaborated with local researchers and government officials, including Iroojlaplap (High Chief) Bokloñ Zackious and Mayor Tobin Kaiko of the Utrik Atoll Local Government. The team conducted a staggering 452 dives around Bikar, Bokak, Bikini, and Rongerik atolls. That equates to 643 hours spent underwater. The team then shared a scientific report with decisionmakers to ensure they had the data needed to inform the Reimaanlok.

Key Discoveries

The expedition team noted that Bikar and Bokak harbor:

  • The largest green turtle nesting colony and seabird colonies in RMI
  • Mature Pisonia forests in excellent condition
  • The highest coral cover and giant clam densities in the central and western Pacific
  • High coral resilience to global warming
  • The highest reef fish biomass in the tropical Pacific Ocean
  • A large abundance of vulnerable species such as large groupers, Napoleon wrasse and bumphead parrotfish
  • The presence of rare fish spawning aggregations and shark mating
  • Little known deep-sea communities with potentially new species of fishes and invertebrates
  • Abundant deep-sea sharks

Nuclear Legacy and Conservation Context

Bikar and Bokak stand in contrast to Bikini Atoll, which was used as a nuclear test site in the wake of WWII. At the request of MIMRA, Pristine Seas studied Bikini atoll to help the country establish its first long-term monitoring sites using standard data collection methodologies and Rongerik Atoll as an unbombed reference site.


About the Organization

National Geographic Pristine Seas works with Indigenous and local communities, governments, and other partners to protect vital places in the ocean through research, policy, and filmmaking. Since 2008, Pristine Seas has helped establish 30 marine protected areas, spanning more than 6.9 million square kilometers of ocean.

Pristine Seas is part of the global non-profit, the National Geographic Society. Our mission is driven by science and filmmaking — we are fully independent from National Geographic publishing and its media arm.

Pristine Seas’ work is made possible through the generous support of the Beagle Charitable Foundation, Allison Bennington, Bezos Earth Fund, Bloomberg Philanthropies, The Campbell Foundation, Disney Conservation Fund, Don Quixote Foundation, The Heinz Family Foundation, Anne K. Howson, Levy Foundation, LGT Venture Philanthropy, Lindblad Expeditions– National Geographic Fund, Look and See Foundation, Ann Luskey, Oracle, Philip Stephenson Foundation, Postcode Lottery Group, Rituals, Serventi Family Foundation, Tanka Foundation, Ted and Michele Waitt–TTMMC Fund, UBS Optimus Foundation, Walmart Foundation, an anonymous donor, and other individual donors.

The National Geographic Society is a global nonprofit organization that uses the power of science, exploration, education and storytelling to illuminate and protect the wonder of our world. Since 1888, National Geographic has pushed the boundaries of exploration, investing in bold people and transformative ideas, providing more than 15,000 grants for work across all seven continents, reaching 3 million students each year through education offerings, and engaging audiences around the globe through signature experiences, stories and content. To learn more, visit www.nationalgeographic.org

Continue Reading

Trending