An Emotional Story of Big Wave Surfing, Parenthood, and Personal Growth.
In a world often characterised by adrenaline-fueled pursuits and daring feats, Lucas “Chumbo” Chianca emerges not only as a formidable big wave surfer but also as a devoted family man navigating the tumultuous waters of parenthood.
His latest documentary, ‘Chumbo: Made For Big Wave Surfing’, offers an intimate glimpse into the dynamic interplay between the Brazilian’s professional endeavours and personal life, shedding light on the profound challenges and poignant moments that define his journey.
From the thundering waves of Teahupo’o in Tahiti and Nazaré in Portugal to the vast expanse of Cortes Bank, the film captures Chumbo’s relentless quest for excellence against the backdrop of fatherhood. Here is all you need to know:
– It’s early 2022, and as Chumbo awaits the arrival of his daughter, Maitê, he grapples with a whirlwind of emotions, reflecting on the transformative power of impending parenthood. The raw vulnerability he displays, juxtaposed against the sheer power of the ocean, paints a picture of a man on the cusp of a profound life transition.
– After his daughter’s birth, Chumbo says that holding her in his arms made him experience a renewed sense of joy: “It was insane. It was the best feeling in my life. Better than any wave, better than any swell, better than the biggest, the best, the longest wave of my life.” He recalls another moment when he knew his personal and sportive lives had evolved: “The first time I realised that I had changed was when I went to Tahiti after Maitê was born. That was my first trip as a dad, and my first swell as a big wave surfer and a dad. As a dad right now, I want to give 200 per cent, go [to competitions] and come back home.”
– At the heart of the narrative lies Chumbo’s unwavering commitment to his family, often demonstrated by his hesitancy to stray far from home for the sake of his career. Despite the inherent risks of his profession, his greatest fear is not the towering waves or treacherous currents but the prospect of not returning home to his loved ones. This internal conflict underscores his ongoing effort to balance his devotion to surfing and his responsibilities as a husband and father. He says: “Nowadays, when I leave home, it’s different. I’m ready to leave home, but I’m ready to get back any time. I just want to see my daughter and my wife. I just want to be with them”.
– Returning to his roots in Saquarema, in the Brazilian state of Rio de Janeiro, Chumbo finds solace in his family and local community, drawing strength from the very shores that moulded him into the surfing champion he is today. “Home is where I replenish my energy, where I rebuild myself, where I renew everything I do,” he explains. He then elaborates on the significance of life there, attributing it to the proximity of his family: “When we are closer, when we are together, we are much stronger.”
– Chumbo highlights his close-knit bond with his brother and fellow surfer, João, describing their connection as “something really pure, true love”. While old and recent footage shows the siblings together, Chumbo says: “We always liked to push each other. He was a crazy kid, always trying to surf big waves, always wanting to be in the ocean. He’s a machine right now, and he’s one of the best athletes I have ever seen in my whole life. He was my little brother and now he’s become my idol. It’s crazy, but it’s perfect.”
– Another crucial relationship in Chumbo’s life is that with his father, Gustavo, who ignited his passion for surfing at the tender age of three. He reminisces about the moment that brought him closer to big wave surfing: while in the water, his dad warned seven-year-old Chumbo about the size of the waves, but the child insisted on going. That day he experienced a hold-down, and instead of being scared, it only fueled his passion further: “I was so happy after that, after all the pounding, that I was alive. I was ready to do it again. That was a little trigger where I felt something really strong for big waves.”
– In summer 2023, Chumbo welcomes the birth of his son, Zion, ushering in a new chapter of love and responsibility. Through tear-filled eyes and heartfelt reflections, he articulates the profound impact of fatherhood on his identity, revealing a depth of emotion rarely seen in the realm of sports: “After Zion, everything changed. I’m just in love with this moment in my life.”
– In the film’s closing moments, Chumbo reflects on his journey with a sense of gratitude and fulfilment. With his impressive track record as a five-time winner of the TUDOR Nazaré Big Wave Challenge and clinching titles this season for “Best Male Performance” and “Best Team Performance” alongside his compatriot Pedro “Scooby” Vianna for a second consecutive year, he humbly states: “I don’t know if I’m the best big wave surfer in the world, but I’m happy and super proud of myself. I can’t wait to see the future because the present is amazing, and I’m doing everything I dreamed of with a whole heart”.
This piece was prepared online by Panuruji Kenta, Publisher, SEVENSEAS Media