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Gitga’at Guardians: Using Science to Safeguard their Territory

Gitga’at Guardians at a Glance

The GITGA’AT FIRST NATION depends on the resources of their territory for their community well-being. They have made it a priority to research and monitor their lands and waters in order to protect their traditional way of life.

Through their Guardian Program, the Nation is tracking the effects of vessel traffic and industrial development activities in order to protect the resources they depend on. The program combines traditional Gitga’at stewardship practices with scientific monitoring. By combining these approaches, the Gitga’at Guardian Watchman Program supports the Nation’s sustainable management of their ecologically-diverse territory and the rich resources they rely on.

Watching the Water, Protecting Whales

Gitga’at Guardian Mary Reece identifying humpback whales by their tail fins. The shape and markings on their tail fins is unique to each individual whale. Photo by Meaghan Hume.

The Gitga’at Guardian program is part of the Gitga’at Nation’s stewardship programs to strengthen knowledge of their territory and enable sound conservation and resource management decisions. This includes understanding of how to protect the rare wildlife found in their territory.

The remote, island-dotted coastal waters of the Gitga’at Nation are ideal whale habitat, including endangered species such as Orca and Fin Whales, and at-risk species such as Humpback whales. The Gitga’at have partnered with a number of organizations to support research initiatives that track the movement of whales in their territory and examine the conditions that support whale abundance.

In partnership with the North Coast Cetacean Society, the Guardians helped install a hydrophone network — a series of underwater microphones that detect the song calls of whales. It’s the first of its kind in Canada, and it helps to determine the whales’ favourite feeding areas, routes of travel, and duration of stay in certain areas. It’s an exciting initiative to help understand key factors for whale conservation.

A humpback whale breaches along the Gitga’at Guardians’ cetacean monitoring route in Squally Channel. Photo credit Brodie Guy.

Chris Picard, Science Director of the Gitga’at First Nation, explains how the traditional ecological knowledge of the Nation works in tandem with the hydrophone project. “The Gitga’at Nation and Guardians’ extensive knowledge of whale sightings and frequency helped to design the hydrophone project. It determined what should monitored and where, and the guardians also assisted with the installation of the network.”

The partnership also extends to analysis of the data. “The Society is currently collecting all the data, but when it comes time to analyze it, report on it, and ask research questions, we will work closely with them” says Picard. The Guardians also support the North Coast Cetacean Society by observing and recording whale sightings while out on patrol to add to the Society’s database. They identify individual Humpback whales from the unique markings on the underside of their tail fins and record the sighting. This information helps to track population dynamics and the movements of each whale spotted in Gitga’at territory.

From Observation to Understanding

The Gitga’at wanted to take this research one step further. For them, it was not enough to simply know the number of whales and their location in the territory. The Nation also wanted to understand the underlying factors that attract and sustain the whale populations in the first place. “We wanted to get a better sense of what was actually bringing whales to the territory. We know where the whales are, their activities, their numbers, and when they come and go. What we didn’t know is why,” explains Picard.

To find the answer, the Nation partnered with Scripps Institute of Oceanography to determine theconditions that support whale populations in Gitga’at territory. “This partnership is focused on examining water conditions such as temperature and salinity,  and the abundance, biodiversity, and biomass of zooplankton,” explains Picard. When finalized, the data will present a bigger picture of why the Gitga’at territory is such desirable habitat for whales.

The Gitga’at Guardians assisted in the design of the study and have also provided equipment and logistical support. In turn, the partnership has spurred a future training initiative for the Gitga’at Guardians. “We’ve realized we would like to have some of the Guardians take this oceanographic training further so we can continue this high-level monitoring into the future,” says Picard.

The presence of the Guardians also ensures that they are able to protect wildlife by quickly responding to distress calls. In July 2015, the Guardians were able to SAVE A STRANDED ORCA WHALE in their territory.

Listening to the Forest: Measuring Industrial Noise

The remote forests of Gitga’at territory provide quiet habitat for terrestrial species. Photo by Brodie Guy.

The remote forests of Gitga’at territory provide quiet habitat for terrestrial species. Photo by Brodie Guy.

Back on dry land, the Nation also has monitoring projects to maintain the health of its lands, forests, and terrestrial animal populations by measuring noise levels and “noise pollution” in its territory. In 2013, the Gitga’at Guardians developed an acoustic baseline data-collection project with University of British Columbia student Max Ritts and ecologist Stuart Gage.

For this data-collection effort, the Guardians helped to install eight automated sound recording meters throughout Douglas Channel, Wright Sound, and Otter Channel. The meters record the sounds of animal, human, and industrial noises to create an acoustic measure of each ecosystem. By establishing an acoustic baseline for the area, the meters can measure how noise levels change with industrial activity and determine the health of an ecosystem and how it is affected by development.

The Gitga’at Guardian program supported the design, installation, and maintenance of this project. Now that this effort has been underway for two years, they are turning to the reporting phase with a long-term view. “We are at the stage now where we will be doing analysis of the data and reports and thinking about how to design a follow up, longer term project,” says Picard. The results from the data provide the Gitga’at with evidence for how industry affects the ecology of their territory and use this information when planning future projects.

Looking to the Past for the Future

Ancient petroglyphs and other important cultural features are located throughout Gitga’at territory

Ancient petroglyphs and other important cultural features are located throughout Gitga’at territory and are monitored and protected by the Guardians.

For centuries, members of the Gitga’at First Nation have stewarded their lands and resources for the benefit of future generations. The Nation has turned to the traditional use of their resources to help determine sustainable practices and resource management priorities.

To capture this knowledge, the Gitga’at are studying archaeological features in their territory and conducting interviews with Elders. This research paints a broader picture of how the territory has been managed for centuries.

“We are trying to document all the knowledge that the Elders have, and the evidence of past occupancy patterns that are etched in the land,” explains Spencer Greening, a Gitga’at First Nation member and University of Northern British Columbia Masters student. “This area has a lot of fishing history. We are looking at evidence of fish traps in the area to get an idea of how our ancestors managed fish there, estimate what time of year people were fishing, and determine their route,” says Greening.

By examining past stewardship practices, the Nation hopes to maintain the cultural traditions and resources of the land to ensure harvests do not deplete resources and that their ecosystems remain healthy. “The in-depth knowledge that the Elders have, about which streams will be salmon bearing and exactly what time of year – it’s an unbelievable amount of knowledge that exists,” says Greening.

These research findings will ultimately be incorporated into the Nation’s traditional laws and guiding management practices. “We are doing this research to affirm that these are our territories, and these are the laws for them” says Greening. “We aren’t just talking about traditional stewardship. We are living it, strengthening our ability to govern and watch over the territory, and ensuring that our vision for it is alive and well.”


Monitoring Bears

Gitga’at territory is home to the revered “Spirit Bear”—black bears with a rare recessive gene that produces a white coat. The territory has a higher frequency of these bears than anywhere else in the world and they are culturally significant to the Gitga’at people.

In order to improve the Nation’s ability to protect Spirit Bears, the Gitga’at Guardian program is piloting a data-collection project to research them. “Through this project, we want to understand bear foraging requirements, seasonal use patterns, and habitat range to make sure the bear population remains healthy and stable,” says Picard.

To measure these activities, the Guardians have installed hair snag stations throughout the territory to collect bear hair for DNA testing. This DNA research shows the number of bears that are in the area and whether they are carriers of the white-coat gene. Through stable isotope analysis, the hair samples also tell researchers about the bears’ diet and whether they are getting enough to eat.

For information on the relationship between the Gitga’at and the bears in their territory, watch below:

Guardians of the Great Bear Rainforest: Spirit Bears and the Gitga’at Nation


Key Challenges and Successes

Steady Growth

Marven Robinson, Operations Manager of the Gitga’at Guardians.

The Gitga’at Guardians have developed their programs over many years to achieve what they have today. It took time to develop, and management was careful to ensure the growth of the organization was supported by human resources. This included a COMPLETE RESTRUCTURING of the organization in 2009.

“When we knew how much work there was to do, we started brainstorming how we were going to do it, and a lot of thought went into the re-structuring of the Guardians and how to build from there,” says Robinson. “We were always careful to not take on too much, because that could be overwhelming and we did not want to do an incomplete job of anything. We would rather start small and do a great job of a few things, and then take on more.”

Since the re-structuring, the program is more robust than ever. The Gitga’at Guardians continue to plan ahead for how to sustainably expand their programs and hone their scientific knowledge of the territory.

Fostering Diverse Partnerships

Developing strong partnerships has been fundamental to the success of the Nation’s research programs. Often, partnerships have begun informally, with the Guardians lending logistical support to researchers, and have grown to incorporate the Gitga’at on the research aims and analysis of projects, as with Scripps Institute and North Coast Cetacean Society.

Maintaining relationships with the Department of Fisheries and Oceans (DFO) and the Coast Guard has also enabled the Gitga’at to clearly communicate concerns they have within their territory. “It’s a two-way relationship” says Robinson. “If they ever need us to check out anything in the water, we drop our stuff and come help them out.”

Likewise, the Guardians have taken representatives of DFO out with them to show them the sensitive and important areas of their territory and what the Guardians are working to protect. “It helps them understand what’s at stake for us. Then when we communicate what we want to accomplish in our territory, they know what is important to us.”


Economic Outcomes

As one of the main employers in Hartley Bay, the Gitga’at Guardian Program supports the economy of the remote community. Five full-time positions have been created through the program as well as ten seasonal positions to help during the busy summer months.The research provided through the program also helps Gitga’at First Nation to make sound decisions around resource management and development in their territory. Stewardship of natural and cultural resources throughout the territory gives the Nation’s leadership certainty in making economic decisions. This enables the Nation to effectively partner with industry, knowing that economic development projects including forestry and fishing are aligned with long-term conservation efforts.Learn more about economic PARTNERSHIPS.


Cultural Outcomes

Through the Guardians, the Gitga’at are able to monitor their territory and protect important archaeological features. They are also able to monitor the conditions that allow for maintaining sustainable harvests of their traditional foods and other resources to sustain their culture.“Through our dock patrols, monitoring, and research we get a really good overall look at what is leaving this territory,” says Robinson. “It’s really important to get that information and have the data to identify how much of what is where, so that we can manage our resources effectively.”This information directly supports the traditional food harvests of the Gitga’at. “The Guardians will let the community know what the resource levels are,” confirms Greening. “For example, they’ll go out and check the seaweed conditions, and let the community know where and when it will be ready to harvest.”Learn more about TRADITIONAL FOODS.


Environmental Outcomes

The extensive research produced by the Gitga’at Guardians and their partners provides the Nation with information to manage their territory and its resources, including assessments of salmon, crab, marine mammals, inter-tidal bivalves, and eulachon as well as wildlife monitoring of whales, bears, and deer. By identifying baseline activity through the hydrophone network and acoustic baseline project, the Gitga’at are able to understand how development will affect their territory and identify conservation priorities.The guardians also measure the baseline contaminants present in their waters to determine if seafood is safe to consume. The Queen of the North (a former ferry boat) and Zelinski (a navy ship) are sunken vessels located in Gitga’at territory. The leaking fuel is a threat to local marine life and contains carcinogens which can end up in traditional food sources.“We’ve been studying data on bivalves because they are particularly vulnerable to contaminants,” says Picard. “We are putting together a synthesis of the data and baseline contaminants so that when more industry come, we will know if things have changed from those baseline surveys.”Learn more about RESEARCH.


Social Outcomes

The Gitga’at Guardian program provides significant employment and training opportunities to members in Hartley Bay. Additionally, management of the program seek opportunities to engage youth and other members of the community in their activities to increase knowledge and awareness of the territory and conservation issues.

The Gitga’at Guardians have partnered with the local school to assist with interactive learning opportunities for local elementary students. The school applies their science education curriculum locally by introducing the students to the unique ecosystems that surround Hartley Bay in partnership with the Guardians.

Learn more about SKILLS TRAINING.

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Coast Funds was created in 2007 out of mutual recognition by conservationists, First Nations, industry, and government that a sustainable economy is vital to conservation efforts in the Great Bear Rainforest and Haida Gwaii areas of British Columbia.


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Feature Destination

Feature Destination: A Conservationist’s Reflection on Family, Biodiversity, and Restoration in Costa Rica

Costa Rica is one of the few countries I’ve returned to repeatedly over the last twenty or so years. Each visit has reinforced why this small Central American nation continues to hold a special place in my heart. As a conservationist, I’ve long admired its bold environmental policies, its ability to restore vast areas of degraded land, and the extraordinary biodiversity that thrives here. But what draws me back just as strongly is the feeling that Costa Rica gives you: the quiet assurance that another world is possible, one where people and nature can coexist with purpose and respect.

I had the chance to experience Costa Rica in a new way, traveling with three generations of my family. My husband, my sister and her family, and our aging parents all came together for what we knew would be a once-in-a-lifetime trip. My sister chose Costa Rica not only because of its beauty, but also because it felt manageable for a multigenerational vacation. It’s safe, accessible, and well set up for travelers of all ages. We also understood it would be expensive, but for the chance to travel together as a full family, the investment was worth it.

coconut tree on beach shore during daytime

We started our journey in San José, where my husband and I stayed in a homestay with a Costa Rican grandmother. She greeted us with warmth, fed us incredible meals, and gave us our first taste, quite literally, of the hospitality this country is known for. From there, we headed to Quepos on the Pacific coast, where my sister had rented an Airbnb home. It was the perfect setup with a space for all of us to gather, cook, relax, and look out over a small deck that faced what appeared to be pure jungle. The view was mesmerizing. We later learned that only a few decades ago, the entire landscape had been logged and used for farmland or extraction. But thanks to Costa Rica’s climate and commitment to restoration, nature had returned with full force. You’d never know it had once been stripped bare.

Every morning, we gathered on that deck before sunrise with coffee in hand to watch the forest awaken. Birds darted through the trees: tanagers, flycatchers, motmots, flickering colors between the leaves. For a family of nature lovers, those quiet hours became some of the most meaningful and memorable moments of the entire trip.

Quepos gave us easy access to both the coast and the rainforest. We hiked in the nearby parks, explored waterfalls, we stumbled on eco-tours of chocolate-making, coffee farming, and sustainable agriculture. The excursions were varied and accessible. Canopy walks, guided nature trails, and small boat rides. Costa Rica’s dynamic geography from the mountains, coasts, volcanoes, and rainforests means you don’t have to travel far to experience completely different ecosystems.

Although my husband and I skipped diving this time to stay together as a family, we did take a longer boat ride to a more remote patch of primary forest. I believe we were on the edge of the Osa Peninsula or near Corcovado National Park, which is known as one of the most biologically intense places on Earth. The experience reminded me again how rare it is to be able to witness truly untouched rainforest.

Every meal we ate was exceptional. With such a strong agricultural foundation, the food was consistently fresh, flavorful, and locally grown. Pineapple, avocado, coffee, papaya, rice, and beans, all vibrant and prepared with pride. Costa Rica’s commitment to sustainable agriculture shows in the taste of what ends up on your plate.

Beyond the beauty and comfort, what continues to impress me most is Costa Rica’s national commitment to conservation. Despite being only about 51,000 square kilometers in size, Costa Rica is home to more than 500,000 species, about 5% of the world’s biodiversity, thanks to its location at the intersection of North and South America. The diversity includes iconic species like the resplendent quetzal (Pharomachrus mocinno), Baird’s tapir (Tapirus bairdii), jaguars (Panthera onca), and endangered sea turtles like the green sea turtle (Chelonia mydas), which nests on the Caribbean coast in places like Tortuguero National Park.

gray wooden bridge in forest during daytime

Costa Rica has not only preserved what it has, it has reversed damage from generations of less sustainable development. In the 1980s, deforestation was rampant, with forest cover reduced to about 21%. But thanks to a range of government policies, including the 1997 launch of the Payment for Environmental Services (PES) program, forest cover has increased to over 50% as of the 2010s, and as of 2022 forests covered approximately 60.1% of the country’s land area, according to the World Bank. The PES program rewards landowners for keeping forests intact, recognizing the economic value of ecosystem services such as carbon capture, water filtration, and biodiversity protection. Much of this work is administered through MINAE (the Ministry of Environment and Energy), and its subsidiary agencies like SINAC, FONAFIFO, and CONAGEBIO.

gray and brown turtle on gray sand during daytime

The country has also turned its attention toward marine conservation, with over 30% of its territorial waters now designated as marine protected areas (MPAs). These include coral reefs, mangroves, and marine corridors vital for species like sharks, whales, and sea turtles. Organizations like the MarViva Foundation have been instrumental in managing these MPAs, particularly around the Eastern Tropical Pacific.

Folks from Costa Rica, also called Ticos, have the reputation of being affectionately warm, proud, and deeply connected to the land. You quickly learn the phrase “Pura Vida” is more than a slogan. It’s a mindset, an expression of gratitude, resilience, and appreciation for life’s simple gifts. It’s said as a greeting, a farewell, a thank-you, and always with a smile.

Traveling here, you’ll find that Costa Rica is not only logistically easy, but emotionally and intellectually enriching. Whether you’re a solo traveler, a couple, or a multigenerational family like us, there’s something for everyone. The country is incredibly welcoming to people of all backgrounds, and it’s one of the safest places in Central America to visit.

If you’re planning a trip, the best advice is to decide what kind of experience you’re looking for. Do you want to immerse yourself in the jungle? Lounge on the beach? Explore volcanoes? Stay in a city and do day trips? Or do a bit of everything? There’s no single way to “do” Costa Rica. You can rent a car or rely on shuttle services. Stay in a city hotel, a remote eco-lodge, or a beachside Airbnb. It’s all possible.

Here are a few key regions to consider:

  • Central Valley (San José and surroundings): Cultural sites, museums, and access to volcanoes and cloud forests.

  • Pacific Coast (including Quepos and Manuel Antonio): National parks, beaches, and adventure tourism.

  • Caribbean Coast (like Puerto Viejo and Tortuguero): Afro-Caribbean culture, nesting turtles, and rich biodiversity.

  • Northern Plains (Arenal and La Fortuna): Hot springs, waterfalls, and volcanoes.

  • Southern Zone (Osa Peninsula and Corcovado): Pristine rainforest, rare species, and incredible biodiversity.

VisitCostaRica.com is the official tourism website and a helpful starting point for researching regions, accommodations, and activities.

For us, this trip was a chance to reconnect, not just with each other, but with the natural world. Costa Rica has a way of doing that. When you’re surrounded by howler monkeys at dawn, or listening to rain fall onto leaves the size of couch cushions, or catching a glimpse of a toucan in flight, you remember what it feels like to be part of something ancient and alive.

And in a world where conservation so often feels like a losing battle, Costa Rica shows what can be achieved when a nation decides to prioritize nature, not just in words, but through action.

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Feature Destination

Feature Destination: The Most Awe-Inspiring National Parks in Latin America

The national parks in Latin America are breathtaking, with diverse landscapes ranging from towering glaciers in Chile to lush tropical rainforests in Costa Rica and jaguar conservation areas in Belize. These areas of immense natural beauty enable you to immerse yourself into the rich biodiversity and culture this continent has to offer, where you’ll explore the unique ecosystems and learn about the traditions of the indigenous people. 

Here is our list for the best national parks in Latin America. 

Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

Located in the southern reaches of Chile, the Andes are at their most spectacular here, with jagged peaks rising from bright blue fjords and turquoise lakes (photo above)

A true Patagonia adventure awaits in Torres del Paine National Park. The hiking here is legendary, with routes varying from a few hours to a few days’ expedition across the 1,814 square kilometre wilderness. The landscapes are rewarding, with colossal glaciers, snow capped summits and roaring waterfalls juxtaposing the vast open plains.

Go kayaking on glacial lakes that sparkle or ride horses through forests and across pampas plains with the local gauchos, learning about their traditional ways of life in this unforgettable setting.

Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina 

Los Glaciares National Park can be found at the heart of Argentine Patagonia. Spanning over 7,000 square kilometres, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is renowned for the sheer scale of its stunning glacial landscapes and rugged mountains. 

The Perito Moreno Glacier dominates the landscape, where deep blues merge with ethereal whites, creating a symphony of hues that sparkle in the sunlight. Watch glacial calving from the boardwalk or boat as chunks of ice break off and thunder into the milky blue waters of Lake Argentino below. If you are feeling adventurous, you can even scale the ice field with crampons, appreciating the ice caves and pools along the way. 

Admire with awe as you explore the landscape on foot, or even horseback, on the lookout for guanacos, Andean condors, foxes, and bird species. If you tackle the 22 km trek to Laguna de los Tres, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of Mount Fitz Roy. 

Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica 

Costa Rica waterfalls port_convertedIncredible biodiversity and tropical rainforests make up this natural park, situated on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica, which is best known for its entangled ecosystem of winding rivers, canals, lagoons, and beaches. 

Navigate Tortuguero by boat or canoe using the extensive network of waterways, where you’ll pass through dense foliage, alive with movement and sound. Monkeys swing overhead, their playful chatter blending with the calls of exotic birds like toucans and parrots. Observe and immerse yourself into the rich tropical haven around you, where three-toed sloths hang lazily from branches and river otters frolic in the water alongside you. 

During nesting season, in July and August, hundreds of green sea and hawksbill turtles come ashore to lay eggs in the sand. Watch this process in action and learn more about the conservation efforts being made to protect these magnificent creatures. 

Cahuita National Park, Costa Rica 

On the south side of the Caribbean, this beautiful and ecologically rich national park in Latin America can only be described as paradise.

Follow the well maintained hiking trails through the rainforest on the lookout for monkeys and sloths with scenic coastal views before reaching the soft white sands, fringed with coconut palms. Off-shore, the vibrant coral reefs are teeming with bright tropical fish, rays, nurse sharks, and various types of sea turtles. The warm, clear waters are perfect for experiencing these creatures in their natural habitats through diving or snorkelling. 

The culture and traditions in this region are rich, rooted in medicinal plants. Learn more about the indigenous Bribri culture and traditions through a hands-on course in traditional cacao cultivation, following the process from picking the pod to sampling the delicious chocolate it creates. 

Iberá National Park, Argentina

Explore the world’s second largest wetland in northeast Argentina, where the tranquil waterways and scenic trails offer a peaceful escape into nature.

Trek among the rich tapestry of lakes, marshes, plains, and forests which are home to capybaras, marsh deer, and howler monkeys, as well as jaguars, tapirs, and giant anteaters which have been gradually reintroduced as part of a rewilding program.

The rewilding of Iberá National Park is a pioneering conservation effort, aiming to restore the native ecosystem by reintroducing keystone species that had vanished from the region. These efforts not only revive biodiversity but also empower local communities through ecotourism and sustainable development.

Canoe or boat down the winding rivers and try spot the 360 different bird species hidden in the foliage of the park. Some of the wildlife is better spotted in the dark, so night game drives are also an option here. 

 
 

Galapagos National Park, Ecuador 

Stunning views in the clear oceans in the Galapagos IslandsThe world famous UNESCO World Heritage Site, located 1,000 kilometres off the coast of Ecuador, is home to many endemic species totally unique to the archipelago, including the Galapagos giant tortoise, marine iguana, and several species of Darwin’s finches.

Explore the volcanic islands, with rugged cliffs and lava fields, where the wild beaches stretch for miles. The clear, blue waters are alive with marine life. Encounter colourful tropical fish, sea turtles, marine iguanas, rays, and even hammerhead sharks while snorkelling or diving amongst the coral reefs and underwater caves.  

Weave in between the archipelago’s islets onboard your own sailboat, where you can enjoy Relais & Chateaux dining and relaxing on the sundeck, while watching sea lions and fur seals play in the turquoise ocean around you. As the skies begin to darken, gaze upwards for incredible views of the planets and constellations. 

 

Each of the national parks in Latin America tell powerful stories of conservation, culture, and connection. Whether witnessing glacial calving in Patagonia, tracing the paths of rewilded jaguars in Iberá, or learning from indigenous communities in Costa Rica, these are experiences that stay with you. 

At Journeys With Purpose, we design transformational travel experiences that deepen your understanding of the world and contribute to its protection. Every journey supports local conservation and community initiatives — with opportunities to engage first-hand along the way. Get in touch to find out more. 

 

Journeys With Purpose (JWP)

Contribute to Positive Impact on a Hosted Journey. Connect with Impact Partners around the world during a Private ExperienceJourneys With Purpose offers immersive conservation and ethical travel experiences. Through private and hosted trips with pioneering conservationists, guests experience rewilding and restoring biodiversity in the wildest corners of the world. Our “Seven Worlds, One Planet” approach is a global curriculum focused on recovering and conserving vibrant landscapes, biodiversity, wildlife and livelihoods across all seven continents.

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Feature Destination

Feature Destination – Journeys With Purpose: Restoring Island-Ocean Ecosystems in Palau

Journeys With Purpose (JWP)

Visiting Palau has been one of the most remarkable and affirming experiences of my life.  Spending hours in the ocean observing turtles, sharks, rays and a host of other marine species, including cuttlefish changing colour and form to their immediate environment, has proven to be one of the greatest joys and wonders in the world.

I grew up watching and entranced by the TV series ‘The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau’.  Such was the impression Cousteau’s series made on me, as a very young child my first pet was called ‘Calypso’, after his fabled research vessel. My experiences in Palau brought back these vivid memories directly. With a particular snorkelling experience on this journey, a fellow traveller commented that this must be “the day you fell in love with sharks” – and it truly was.

Throughout the course of the last 12+ months, Journeys With Purpose has worked alongside the world-class organisations of Island Conservation and Scripps Institution of Oceanography, in association with Re:wild, on a ‘Restoring Island-Ocean Ecosystems’ journey to champion and support the Island-Ocean Connection Challenge (IOCC). 

The IOCC aims to restore at least 40 globally significant island-ocean ecosystems from ridge to reef by 2030 to benefit people, wildlife and our planet.  This goal is delivering tangible action and successes, and signifying more widely the essential connection between island health and ocean health. Holistically restoring islands delivers outsized benefits for wildlife, oceans, people and climate impacts.  

Key IOCC messages:

  • Healthy oceans need healthy islands
    • island and marine ecosystem elements cycle into one another, sharing nutrients vital to the plants and animals within them. Invasive species damage these fragile ecosystems and work to remove these in order to  restore balance and endemic species such as the Megapode bird is vital.
  • Everything is connected – Indigenous Peoples and local communities know this
    • Indigenous Peoples and local communities have long understood and managed their natural resources in the context of island-to-sea connections. As Wayne Andrew, Micronesia Director of OneReef says “Community is not people alone. Community is a place, the reef. The respect of all that is so important”. This is rooted in their traditional knowledge and wisdom, including ancient oral stories such as the “Megapode Bird and Hawksbill Turtle”.  It is essential to support local leadership and communities in the decisions they wish to make to protect these vital ecosystems.
  • Collaboration is essential
    • taking a collective approach to sustainable science and the importance of collaboration with local communities to achieve more holistic results.
  • Emerging Science and Impact Monitoring
    • global scalability of work informed by science. Emerging research shows people, wildlife and marine environments benefit when island-ocean connections are restored.
  • Islands are on the frontline of environmental crises
    • a staggering 41% of critically threatened species are found on islands
    • 27% of all languages come from island communities
    • surrounding coral reefs are home to 25% of all marine life

We travelled with leadership from Palau’s local communities, Island ConservationScripps Institution of Oceanography and supporters of these organisations. The collective experience of our time with these communities, and snorkelling and diving, was quite remarkable – a true spirit of togetherness and bonding developed that we will treasure for the rest of our lives. And importantly to take forward into action.

My key takeaways are thus:

  • People make Places
    • this is never more true than in Palau. There are approximately 20,000 local inhabitants on Palau’s islands, and they demonstrate an incredible bond, cohesiveness and strength together. This is brilliantly encapsulated by the local Hatohobei community, who rejected sizeable bribes to thwart a significant illegal fishing operation – “… we’re doing it for our people, for the future generations.”
  • Impact at Scale
    • the Palau National Marine Sanctuary (PNMS), effective 1 January 2020 with support from the Palauan government and several NGOs, is one of the largest marine protected areas (MPA) in the world.  It was the first MPA of its kind, protecting 80% of a country’s national waters in a fully protected no-take zone. 
    • the PNMS protects a vast array of marine life and unique geological features within its over 475,000 km2, an area larger than Germany, Japan, Iraq, Sweden, etc. Eight hundred marine vertebrate species call the PNMS home, including nearly 30 different marine mammals and 60 shark and ray species, though these numbers are likely underestimated, as the biodiversity of the PNMS remains understudied.  
    • all achieved with the spirit of just 20,000 Palauans.
  • Be Brave
    • as above, the Palauans have been incredibly brave in their approach with their communities, natural environment and ambition. Very sadly, this is not the norm around the world, but is, however, a lesson for us all – trust our hearts and do the right thing to help deliver today a viable future. We must turn the currency of hope into the currency of action.

I have observed these three takeaways in the great conservation and rewilding endeavours around the world.  It can be done. I urge us all, in the strongest possible manner, to support the work of the people of Palau, Island Conservation and Scripps Institution of Oceanography – brilliant people, doing brilliant work, in brilliant places.   My eternal gratitude to our partners and supporters on this journey, and in particular to the exceptional dedication, hospitality and warmth of our local Palauan partners at Island Conservation PalauEbiil SocietyOneReef, Koror State DCLE (Department of Conservation and Law Enforcement), Ngarchelong State Rangers and many others.   Palau, officially the Republic of Palau, is an island nation in the Micronesia region of Oceania in the western Pacific, comprising an archipelago of over 350 islands.  Little known to many of us, it is one of the most remarkable ecosystems and communities on Earth.  Please connect here – connect@journeyswithpurpose.org – to understand how you can contribute, and visit Palau. 

A tribute to the people of Palau:-  in memoriam to Prince LeeBoo of Palau, 1763 to 1784.

With the consent of his father King Ibedul of Koror, Prince LeeBoo departed Palau with Captain Henry Wilson and the crew of the Antelope to London, England on 12 November 1783.  Whilst in London, Prince LeeBoo became Palau’s de facto ambassador of goodwill to England, and a scholar.  However, LeeBoo’s plan of returning to Palau to spread knowledge and scientific discoveries to his people ended abruptly when the young prince succumbed to smallpox in the winter of 1784.  The remains of Prince LeeBoo and his plans lay buried today in the courtyard of St. Mary’s church in Rotherhithe, London, England.

Despite the dilapidation of time, the spirit of Prince LeeBoo continues to live in the hearts of the people of Palau – their immense strength of community, positive impact and fortitude.  His story, and purpose in life, remains widely told amongst the people of Palau today.  

This article was retrived from Duncan’s Field Notes.

Journeys With Purpose offers immersive conservation and ethical travel experiences. Through private and hosted trips with pioneering conservationists, guests experience rewilding and restoring biodiversity in the wildest corners of the world. Our “Seven Worlds, One Planet” approach is a global curriculum focused on recovering and conserving vibrant landscapes, biodiversity, wildlife and livelihoods across all seven continents.

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