A Coruña, a Different Side of Spain

Tucked away in the green, rugged Northwestern corner of Spain, the sparkling coastal city of A Coruña is a side of Spain that many never see. With its vibrant local gastronomy, gorgeous white-sand beaches, and rich culture and history, A Coruña is well worth a trek off the beaten path.

By Sarah Murray

Lay of the Land

The city of A Coruña sits on a peninsula in Galicia, a region of Spain known for its dramatic landscapes, unbeatable seafood, and Celtic roots. The peninsula, shaped a bit like a tree, juts out into the wild Atlantic Ocean. The city makes up the trunk of the peninsula; its left side lined by beaches and its right housing the city’s marina and port. The old quarter, Cidade Vella, and the ancient Roman lighthouse, Torre de Hércules, lie within the tree’s canopy. It’s a small city and extremely walkable – in fact, driving its maze of streets is not recommended.

The Crystal City

A Coruña earned its nickname – a Cidade de Cristal, or the Crystal City – from the distinctive glass-enclosed balconies that adorn many of its buildings. The galerías, as they are called in Spanish, are the result of two constants in Galician life: ships and rain. Ship-makers in nearby Ferrol borrowed the design from the sterns of Spanish galleons to create galerías as a way to enjoy the pleasures of a balcony with the realities of Galician weather. One of the best places to see the galerías is on the Avenida Marina, where the sparkling glass facades abut the yacht harbor.

Tower of Hercules

There is nothing as emblematic of A Coruña as the Tower of Hercules. The ancient Roman lighthouse is perched at the end of A Coruña’s wave-battered peninsula, overlooking the city. In fact, built in the late 1st century AD, the lighthouse predates the city itself.

Legend has it that it was here that Hercules defeated the giant Geryon, whose cattle he had to steal for his 10th labor. In the Galician tale, Hercules came to confront King Geryon and end his tyrannical rule over the region. After beheading Geryon and burying the head by the sea, Hercules ordered the people to build a tower on top of the head and a city nearby. He named after the first woman to live there, Crunía. Today, the legend is represented in the city’s coat-of-arms: a skull and cross bones beneath the Tower of Hercules.

Whether or not you believe in legends, a visit to the lighthouse is a must, both for its historical significance and the excellent views. Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009, the Tower of Hercules is unique among Roman lighthouses due to its preservation and continued functionality. The top of the tower offers sweeping views of the city, ocean, and cliff-side park. (For those not wanting to pay to enter the lighthouse, a stroll around the park and sculpture garden is a scenic alternative.)

Medieval Quarter

The winding cobbled streets of Cidade Vella, the city’s oldest neighborhood, are a great place to walk off your large Galician meals. Built on an ancient Celtic castro, the Cidade Vella is steeped in history.  Many of the buildings in this neighborhood date back to the re-founding of the city in 1200s. Landmarks include two 12th century Romanesque churches (Colexiata de Santa María do Campo and Igrexa de Santiago); the baroque Santo Domingo monastery; and the charming sycamore-lined square, Praza Azcárraga. The neighborhood is also the final resting place of Sir John Moore, who died in the Battle of Corunna during the Peninsular War. His tomb can be found in the San Carlos gardens, next to the Archives of the Kingdom of Galicia.

Galician Gastronomy

With many in the region still deriving their livelihoods from the land and sea, chefs in A Coruña have an abundance of quality local ingredients to work with. From fresh vegetables and unique cheeses to barbecued meats and fresh seafood, Galician cuisine has something for everyone.

Alcume Parrillada (Rúa Galera 44B) is an excellent place for sampling Galician barbecue – be sure to bring your appetite. For those wanting to sample Galicia’s renowned seafood, Restaurante Abuín (Rúa Federico Tapia 8) is a great choice. Not only does the restaurant serve up amazing seafood dishes, but it is also a part of the Restauramar network of responsible and sustainable seafood businesses.

Coffee Break

To fuel your wanderings, do as the Spanish do and grab a coffee at one of the city’s many cafés. Your requisite coffee break will also give you a chance to sample a Galician specialty: tarta de Santiago. Cafe Hispano (Rúa Galera, 32-34) makes an excellent version of the almond cake, which is typically dusted with powdered sugar in the shape of Santiago’s cross.

If you aren’t a coffee drinker (or even if you are), head to Bonilla a la Vista (Rúa Barcelona, 43; Rúa Real, 54). The Galician institution has been churning out churros and hot chocolate since 1932. If you’re craving something salty, the brand is also famous for its potato chips.

Note: You will probably be tempted to order the Spanish tortilla (potato omelette) for a morning snack. While you can do as you please, be forewarned that you will face some strange looks from Spaniards. The tortilla is seen as an afternoon snack to accompany a beer, rather than a breakfast food.

A Midday Feast

Spanish restaurants often have amazing lunch specials. For a reasonable price, you can get a three or four course meal, a wine or beer, and a coffee. A word to the wise- these meals are called el menú. So, if you’re just looking for a list of the food options and not a four-course meal, it’s best to ask for la carta.

If you want a quick meal and don’t want to commit a few hours to sitting and digesting, pop into a bakery for an empanada or a bocadillo. These empanadas are a bit different than what you may be used to getting from Mexican food trucks; the Galician specialties are more akin to savory pies. A bocadillo, or simple sandwich, is a great way to sample Spain’s national treasure: jamón iberíco. For mouthwatering sandwiches and paninis made with artisanal products, check out Jamonería La Marina (Avenida Marina, 36).

On Tapas

Spain is the land of tapas, and in Galicia, you get more bang for your buck. Thanks to the Galician habit of generous portions, tapas here are not the microscopic plates you’ll find elsewhere. In fact, you can even still find restaurants in A Coruña that offer free tapas with your drink. If you’re feeling famished or are eating with others, there are also raciones – larger plates meant for sharing with a group.

Rúa Estrella and Rúa Galera are great places to begin your tapas adventure. The narrow streets are lined with restaurants that, come late afternoon, are brimming with locals out for a drink and a bite to eat. It’s hard to go wrong wandering from bar to bar, sampling tapas, and washing them down with a glass of wine or caña of Estrella Galicia (a half pint of the local beer).

If you’re looking for craft beers with your tapas, Cervezoteca Malte (Rúa Galera 47) is a great place to start. La Bombilla (Calle Torreiro 6), an A Coruña institution, is also worth a stop, but don’t expect to find a seat. The tiny bar serves up cheap tapas and is always brimming with people. Try the croquetas (croquettes) or the filete empanado con patatas y pimiento (fried steak with potatoes and pepper).

Sharing tapas and raciones is a great way to sample a variety of the regions specialties. Some must-trys from the sea include pulpo á feira (octopus with paprika, salt and olive oil), vieiras (scallops), and berberechos (cockles). Meat lovers should try zorza and raxo – both are chopped marinated pork loin, but raxo has the kick of chorizo seasonings. The regional cheeses, Arzúa-Ulloa, San Simón da Costa, Cebreiro, are also excellent. For a bit of green in your diet, try the pimientos de Padrón. These flash-fired green peppers are a delicious native to Galicia, though beware: thanks to a biological quirk, one in ten peppers packs a spicy punch. Croquetas (croquettes) are often filled with jamón or cod, but can be filled with just about anything, and are highly recommended.

To Market, To Market

For a glimpse behind the scenes, serious foodies and early risers may want to check out la lonja, A Coruña’s fish market (Peirao Linares Rivas, s/n). Though it requires getting up before dawn, it is well worth a visit if you can arrange it (Note: reservations are required, +34 981 164 600). As the latest catches are auctioned off, the long hall of the market is filled with shouts, bustling people, and secret signals. The best days to visit the market are Tuesdays and Thursdays, when boats from the high seas often return with impressive catches like swordfish and blue-finned tuna.

For those wanting to set a later alarm, you can see the fish on their next stop on the supply chain at the Praza de Lugo. Here, the fishmongers who purchased fish at auction prepare the fish and sell to the general public. The fishmongers sell their wares on the lower level, while upstairs there are purveyors of other products – meats, cheeses, produce – that represent the bounty that Galician land provides.

Take a Hike

Those looking to burn off a few of those calories have a number of options. In the evenings, many locals can be found out taking a stroll on the paseo marítimo, a 13 km long seaside promenade that encircles the city. Off of the main peninsula, visitors can climb to the top of Monte San Pedro for the best views of the city and the surrounding landscape.  The park at the top is an excellent place for quiet sunset views over the ocean. (Those wanting to avoid the climb can drive or take the panoramic elevator from sea level.)

A Day at the Beach

A Coruña has a beach for everyone – from the tiny cove of Praia de Adormideras to the vast sweeping crescent formed by Praias Riazor, Orzán, and Matadeiro. On a placid summer day, the turquoise waters could make you think you were in the tropics, though a dip in the water will quickly disavow you of that notion. The ocean temps skew more towards refreshing than bath water in A Coruña. All of the beaches can be reached along the paseo marítimo.

Surf’s Up

For those looking for a bit more action, there’s a surf break just a stone’s throw from the center of the city. The right-hand point break in front of Praia Matadeiro is popular among locals and serves up decent surf. Timing is key, however; the water is often flat in the summer and can reach backbreaking heights with winter storms. A few surf shops along the beach can meet your gear needs, some offering lessons and rentals as well (VAZVA – Rúa Real, 69; Raz – Rúa Pondal, 2; ¡Hola! Ola – Rúa Alfredo Vincenti, 32).

A Trip to the Museum

In case of rain, which is always wise to plan for in Galicia, there are a number of museums to visit in the city. At the Castillo de San Anton (Paseo Marítimo Alcalde Francisco Vazquez, 2) you can tour the castle grounds, see views of the city, and check out the archaeological museum. Picasso fans will want to stop by the Casa Museo Picasso, where he lived for a few years as a child. The Aquarium Finisterrae (Paseo Marítimo Alcalde Francisco Vazquez, 34) is a great stop for kids and adults alike. The aquarium houses exhibits that represent the rich local ecosystems and maritime history, as well as novel 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea-themed exhibit to make Captain Nemo proud.

Traditional Music

With bagpipes, fifes, and drums, traditional Galician music has much more in common with the folk music of other Celtic lands than the flamenco of Southern Spain. Check local calendars and flyers to see if a foliada popular is taking place during your visit – these traditional music and line-dancing events are having a resurgence in A Coruña, thanks to the work of an organization called Ardelloiexo. Traditional music can also be found in some of the city’s pubs, in concerts or informal gatherings akin to Ireland’s trad sessions. A Repichoca (Rúa Orillamar, 11) and A Cova Céltica (Rúa Orzán, 82) are two local haunts that often have traditional music.

San Xoán

The festival of San Xoán (Galician for Saint John), held every year on June 23rd, is a spectacular time to visit A Coruña. Though it has ties to the Catholic saint now, its roots are firmly planted in pagan traditions for the summer solstice. As a result, the festivities are thick with tradition.

In the afternoon, people gather medicinal plants, including St. John’s wort, which will be soaked in water over night and used to cleanse the face in the morning. The multipurpose ritual brings good health and also wards off curses and the evil eye. As the afternoon wears on, celebrants begin building their bonfires along the sweeping crescent of A Coruña’s beach.

Come nightfall, the city comes alive with magic. Firelight, paper lanterns, and booming fireworks fill the night sky. The air is thick with smoke and the sounds of revelry. Partygoers fill themselves on roasted meats and sardines, take a dip in the ocean for good health, and leap over the fires seven times for good luck (not an easy feat after a full-night’s drinking). The party continues until the sun comes up and celebrants stumble home.

Come Visit a Different Side of Spain

Part of the beauty of A Coruña is that it is relatively untouched by tourism – the vast majority of people you’ll encounter are Galicians. Its position off the beaten track lends it an authentic charm and also makes it much more affordable than many other Spanish destinations.

Those who venture off the beaten path to A Coruña will not be disappointed. The rich culture, beautiful landscapes, and amazing food offer something for everyone.

A Note on language: While Galician (a language similar to Portuguese and Spanish) is an official language, nearly everyone in A Coruña speaks Spanish as well. English can also be found, but is not as common as in more touristy parts of Spain.

When to Go: The summer is by far your best bet weather-wise. It is far sunnier and the temperature is typically in the low-20s (C) or low 70s (F) from June to September. Other seasons are much wetter, with the winter seeing the most rain and storms.

Sarah is a researcher, writer, photographer, and artist with a lifelong love for the oceans. 

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