Feature Destination

Sabah’s unique wildlife gets unique care

By Scuba Junkie Conservation Manager, Cat McCann

Sabah Wildlife Department and Honorary Wildlife Wardens

The state of Sabah, in Malaysian Borneo – known as ‘the land below the wind’ – is famed the world over for its spectacular wildlife, rare species and incredible biodiversity – both on land and in the water.

People flock to Sabah in the hope of seeing rare animals – including many species that are sadly on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List. Visitors to the rainforests may be lucky enough to see species of orang-utans (critically endangered), pygmy elephants (endangered), pangolins (critically endangered) and proboscis monkeys (endangered). In the seas surrounding Sabah, divers and snorkellers alike are lucky to see species of turtles such as green turtles (endangered) and hawksbill turtles (critically endangered), as well as endangered species of sharks such as scalloped hammerheads (endangered), as well as whale sharks (endangered).

Such incredibly rare wildlife deserves incredible care – and many of the above species fall under the remit of the Sabah Wildlife Department (SWD), who work tirelessly for the protection of Sabah’s iconic species.

Sabah Wildlife Department is a local wildlife authority under Sabah’s state Ministry for Tourism, Environment, Science and Technology – and enforces the “Wildlife Conservation Enactment 1997” for the proper regulation, use, protection, conservation and management of wildlife, caves and wildlife areas in Sabah.

The SWD works in many different ways to protect the wildlife – including through their dedicated veterinary group, the Wildlife Rescue Unit. However, recognizing that threats to wildlife and protected areas are constant, the Sabah State Government included the provision of appointing Honorary Wildlife Wardens under the Wildlife Conservation Enactment of 1997 – which allows the SWD to train and appoint Honorary Wildlife Wardens (HWWs).

Honorary Wildlife Wardens are members of the local community who have an interest in conservation and are gazetted by the SWD to help enforce protection of protected species in Sabah. In the fight against wildlife crime, HWWs work closely with the SWD by alerting the authorities of any suspicious activities and actions that may threaten the survival of Sabah’s protected wildlife, as well as voluntarily assisting projects that promote the conservation of these species.

HWW act as Wildlife Department’s ‘eyes and ears’ on the ground – helping to strengthen enforcement and prevent acts that would be detrimental to protected species. These posts are voluntary, and HWWs do what they do for their love of wildlife in Sabah.

Scuba Junkie and Honorary Wildlife Wardens

Scuba Junkie is an award-winning dive operator with bases in Sabah, Malaysian Borneo and in Komodo, Nusa Penida and Derawan in Indonesia. Scuba Junkie SEAS is the dedicated conservation arm of Scuba Junkie, with six main conservation programmes – turtle conservation; coral conservation; shark conservation; tackling marine debris; supporter engagement and eco-friendly resort.

There are four HWWs at Scuba Junkie SEAS’ base on Pulau Mabul, in the Semporna region – Dionne, Kai, Azlan and David. Turtles are protected by law in Sabah – no one is allowed to touch, interfere or harass turtles, or interrupt their nesting process under penalty of a fine and imprisonment.

As the Semporna area is a hotspot for turtles and the islands in the area known for nesting turtles, the HWWs main roles fall to not only enforcing the law and acting as SWD’s ‘eyes and ears’, but also assisting turtle conservation efforts through practical means such as helping to run the Mabul Turtle Hatchery and the Mabul Rehabilitation Unit.

Although the HWWs work full time for the dive operator Scuba Junkie, they give up their free time and nights to be on call for nesting turtles and turtle hatchlings, as well as helping to care for sick turtles. Scuba Junkie’s HWWs also assist the Conservation Managers in running programmes during the day – for example, schools outreach programmes – when their diving schedule allows.

Each of the HWWs loves their role, although they admit it is not an easy task. During turtle nesting season, an HWW can get a call to a nesting at any time – usually just after midnight, and not finishing for up to four hours afterwards.

When a nesting turtle is discovered, the community contacts the on duty HWW, who ensures the nesting process is well managed so as not to disturb or stress the female. Once the nesting process is finished and the female has returned to the ocean, the HWWs carefully excavate the nest and relocate them to the Mabul Turtle Hatchery. At the hatchery, they recreate as natural a nest as possible — at the same depth beneath the surface and sheltered from or exposed to direct sunlight. The whole process can often last over four hours…not an easy task.

The HWWs help to protect the nest while it incubates, and release the hatchlings when the nest hatches roughly two months later. As of mid-2018, more than 9,500 baby sea turtles (both green and hawksbill) have been successfully released on the beach in front of Scuba Junkie’s Mabul Beach Resort. It can be very busy during turtle nesting season, often with turtle nestings and hatchlings release on the same night.

Despite the challenges, all of the HWWs relish their role and the opportunities it affords them.

“It is probably the most difficult part for me – to be wakened up in the middle of the night to relocate turtle nest. But I know that it’s worth it in the end, and it is important for the numbers of turtles in this area” said Mohd Khairuddin Bin Riman (Kai), “I love releasing the newly hatched turtles. I can feel their movement when they are struggling to get out, to move out into the water. Seeing them work hard to get there, seeing them get into the water against all odds, makes me realize nothing is impossible. I know the hatchlings start a completely new journey when out in the water- but at least I have helped as many as possible get there.”

Kai continued “The role of HWW is very important for me, because I am able to protect the wildlife and environment – it is important to keep the ecological balance on this Earth, we are all part of the great circle of life. It is also important show and educate other people about the dependency of everybody and everything to each other.”

“I didn’t actually have the intention of becoming a HWW in the first place. I was just presented with this incredible opportunity by Scuba Junkie and the Sabah Wildlife Department to make things better for others and for the environment – and for personal growth – changing how I could make myself as a good person as possible for others.”

“I have so many good memories of my work as HWW – releasing hatchlings, releasing rehabilitated turtles back into the wild – but my one stand out memory is the day Scuba Junkie SEAS signed our MOU (Memorandum of Understanding) with Sabah Wildlife Department for the Mabul Turtle Hatchery. David McCann (the Conservation Manager for Scuba Junkie SEAS) and myself were so happy that day.”

The rehabilitation centre is also a keen focal point for the HWWs – caring for sick and injured turtles under the guidance of the Sabah Wildlife Department’s Wildlife Rescue Unit.

Dionne Sherry Guerzo agreed: “It was great to get official recognition for the Hatchery, but my happiest moment was when we released Donatello, one of the rehabilitated turtles. This was the first sick turtle I was involved with, and to see him grow in strength every day made me realize how important every individual is. The vets of the WRU work so hard to save every individual – it’s an emotional rollercoaster, willing the turtle to get better. Yet they do it every day for every animal in their care.”

“I was very grateful to be able to contribute and give back to those who brings me joy – I see healthy turtles underwater every day. People come from all over the world to see the turtles here. And I’m fortunate enough to be tasked with protecting them. I see it as my duty to protect those that I love or care for – and being an HWW is a perfect way for me to be able to give back to the environment.”

Dionne continued: “My worst memory is seeing some turtles that had been poached a few years ago – I felt so helpless, I was devastated. But my role is to help the SWD stop things like this happening – to protect the voiceless. It gives me a purpose and a focus. If we don’t protect our wildlife, who will – what will the future be like?”

Azlan Bin Mohd Yusof has a very definitive vision for the role – and what it means for not only him but for others who want to get involved in conservation. He explains, “Being an HWW lets us protect the wildlife, it gives us knowledge and power to effect change in our home areas. I wanted to become a HWW as I had a passion for conservation and I wanted to be a role model in my community, to show that it is possible to get involved in conservation if the passion and will is there. I wanted to raise awareness and make a difference – and the role of HWW lets me do all this and more.”

“I have learnt so much about so many other species of animal, and how important they to our ecosystem. I also learnt a lot about how populations of endangered species are declining. We need to do more to protect them – as we rely on these ecosystems too.”

“I remember the first time I saw a dead turtle – it had eaten plastic. I was heartbroken – to think that something so simply fixed had caused an animal’s death. When I see plastic on beaches and underwater and I know this could happen again – this drives me to help out and do beach and reef cleans as often as possible. The less plastic in the ocean, the better – and people come and help when they see the effort others are making to keep our oceans cleaner.”

Azlan continued: “There are tough moments – but equally there are some pretty fantastic moments. I remember my first nest relocation – the first time I held a turtle egg in my hand. So precious! And then – two months later, I was holding a hatchling from that same nest in my hand…I cannot describe the feeling, being part of something like this. I have been given a unique opportunity, by the Sabah Wildlife Department and I am honoured to be doing what I do.”

The fourth HWW, David McCann, is the Conservation Manager for Scuba Junkie SEAS. “The amazing thing about being an HWW is that it enables people from all walks of life in Sabah to become active in conservation efforts. You protect what you love. Which is why a huge part of SJ SEAS work is outreach programmes with our HWWs. We want to engage and tell people about the incredible biodiversity around them, to show them how amazing their local environment is. And hopefully through this, encourage more people to become more active in conservation – maybe following the lead of our HWWs.”

“Our HWWs are amazing role models, they work incredibly hard – with fantastic results. To think that they are only a small part of the HWW programme – with more HWWs in the forest, in the mountain areas, protecting animals all over Sabah. And then the HWW programme is only one part of the work that the Sabah Wildlife Department do. It shows how seriously and thoroughly they take their responsiblity in protecting the wildlife of Sabah. It’s a unique and fitting way of protecting the unique wildlife found in Sabah. We would like to thank the Sabah Wildlife Department for being able to be a small part of this.”

Scuba Junkie Conservation Manager, Cat McCann.

Scuba Junkie was set up by divers who had and still have, a love and dedication to the marine and terrestrial environment and through the years have tried to set up and run many projects and build an Eco-friendly resort containing green waste systems, solar energy, the use of only biodegradable cleaning products and plastics and sticking to proper and responsible dive practices etc, so that this beautiful area can be preserved for future generations and that the people of Sabah can thrive from the increased economy brought about by sensible, sustainable Eco-tourism.

Help us break-even with our minimal operating costs to make sure this resource does not go away. Join fellow readers in supporting our work through 2018.

or support us on patreon.com

The mission of SEVENSEAS Media is to connect individuals and resources inside and outside of the conservation community to further the shared goal of preventing habitat destruction and biodiversity loss. Since our creation, we’ve been achieving this mission through:

Running community building projects in 174 countries
Engaging student ambassadors in over 50 universities
Forming strategic alliances and partnerships with over 200 professional organizations
Publishing over 500 authors, photographers, and researchers
Sponsoring dozens of beach and community clean-ups
Providing free scientific resources for educators
Promoting over 20 tailored conservation job postings per week- totaling over 1000 opportunities per year
Inspiring and educating our readers through rich imagery, engaging content, and a compelling conservation message
We do all of the above FOR FREE, because we care about the future

Find the latest articles on SEVENSEAS Media here.

Want to get in touch with questions or a submission? Contact us here.

This piece was edited and posted onto SEVENSEAS Media by Giacomo Abrusci

Related Topics:borneo malaysia scuba junkie

Up Next

A decade later, realizing the new normal in Borneo

Don't Miss

Ecotourism in Raja Ampat—Defender or Destroyer of the World’s Richest Reefs?

Aquacultures & Fisheries

What the Fish Are Telling Us About Marine Biodiversity and Ocean Health Around Tenerife

Tenerife sits in the eastern Atlantic like a crossroads. Positioned roughly 300 kilometres off the northwest coast of Africa, the island intersects the paths of the Canary Current, warm subtropical surface waters, and the deep cold upwellings of the Atlantic basin. The result is one of the most ecologically productive marine environments in the northern hemisphere, a place where bluefin tuna from the Mediterranean share waters with tropical reef species and migratory whales from the polar ocean. What lives in these waters, and how those populations are changing, tells us something important about the health of the broader Atlantic system.

The Anatomy of an Exceptional Marine Environment

The waters around Tenerife support approximately 400 species of fish, a number that reflects the unusual convergence of marine provinces that the island straddles. [1] Its seafloor topography is dramatic: the island drops away steeply from the coast, reaching oceanic depths within just a few kilometres of shore. This proximity of shallow coastal habitat to very deep water creates conditions that support both reef-associated species and the large pelagic predators of the open ocean, sometimes within sight of the same beach.

In the deeper offshore waters, the Canary Islands are internationally recognised as one of the finest big game fishing destinations in the world, and for good reason. Atlantic bluefin tuna (Thunnus thynnus) pass through in their thousands between December and April, migrating northward toward Mediterranean spawning grounds. These are not small fish. Individuals regularly exceed 250 kilograms, and the largest bluefin recorded in these waters approach 450 kilograms. [2] Their spring passage coincides with dense schools of Atlantic mackerel (Scomber scombrus) and smaller baitfish that concentrate near the island, drawing the giants in from the open Atlantic.

Blue marlin (Makaira nigricans) and white marlin (Kajikia albida) are present from spring through autumn, the two billfish species that define Tenerife’s reputation among dedicated sport anglers. Spearfish (Tetrapturus belone) inhabit the deeper offshore trenches. Yellowfin tuna (Thunnus albacares), bigeye tuna (Thunnus obesus), wahoo (Acanthocybium solandri), and mahi-mahi (Coryphaena hippurus) complete a pelagic assemblage that few locations outside the tropics can match. [2]

Closer to shore, the volcanic reef structures support a different community. Atlantic amberjack (Seriola dumerili), barracuda (Sphyraena viridensis), grouper (Epinephelus spp.), and European sea bass (Dicentrarchus labrax) inhabit the rocky substrates, alongside numerous wrasse species, bream, and moray eels. The deeper sandy bottoms, where slow-jigging techniques are most effective, hold species less visible to tourists but central to local gastronomy: red porgy (Pagrus pagrus), sargo (Diplodus sargus), and various sparids that have been fished by Canarian communities for centuries. [3]

Reading the Signals: What Is Changing

The richness of this marine environment is not static, and the signals coming from the water are mixed. On one hand, the resident cetacean populations tell a story of relative stability. Whale Watch Tenerife, which has logged cetacean sightings systematically since 2018, recorded 17 different species in both 2018 and 2023, with short-finned pilot whales (Globicephala macrorhynchus) and bottlenose dolphins (Tursiops truncatus) present on nearly every survey day. [4] In 2025, orca sightings and encounters with fin whales were notable additions to the year’s record. [4] The continued presence of these apex predators is generally a positive indicator of ecosystem function.

On the other hand, the EU-funded OCEAN CITIZEN restoration project documented concerning trends at the base of the food web when it began its work on the island in 2024. Fish populations associated with rocky reef habitats have declined significantly compared to historical baselines. Seagrass meadows (Cymodocea nodosa), which serve as nurseries for juvenile fish and feeding grounds for sea turtles, have retreated across multiple coastal areas due to sedimentation, pollution, and rising water temperatures. Rocky reefs have been degraded by a combination of physical disturbance and the effects of ocean acidification. [5] These are not peripheral problems. Reef habitats and seagrass meadows are foundational to the productivity that ultimately supports the entire marine food web, from the smallest reef fish to the bluefin tuna and the pilot whales that hunt above them.

The Atlantic regulatory framework governing commercial fishing has also evolved. EU fisheries ministers, meeting in December 2025, set 2026 catch limits with 81 percent of total allowable catches in the northeast Atlantic at maximum sustainable yield levels — an improvement on previous years, though the failure to agree a mackerel quota for 2026 due to disputes with non-EU countries was a notable setback. [6] For sport and recreational fishing around Tenerife, a growing culture of catch and release has taken hold among charter operators, particularly for bluefin tuna, billfish, and other large pelagic species. Most reputable charters now apply mandatory release for bluefin tuna, reflecting both changing regulation and a shift in the values of visiting anglers. [3]

What the Fish Are Actually Telling Us

Marine ecosystems are exceptionally good at communicating ecological stress, if we know how to listen. The presence of 28 cetacean species, including year-round resident pilot whales, tells us that the deep-water food web west of Tenerife remains productive. The decline of reef fish populations and seagrass cover tells us that the shallower coastal zone is under sustained pressure from human activity. The continued migration of bluefin tuna past the island tells us that large-scale Atlantic management is beginning to take effect after decades of overfishing. The appearance of orcas and large baleen whales in 2025 tells us that the waters retain the biological richness to attract ocean wanderers from across the hemisphere.

Tenerife’s marine environment is neither pristine nor beyond recovery. It occupies a contested middle ground where genuinely exceptional natural heritage coexists with the pressures of one of Europe’s busiest tourist destinations. Paying attention to what lives here, in all its scientific specificity, is the first step toward deciding what kind of relationship the island will have with its sea.

Sources

Wikipedia: Tenerife — fauna and marine ecology
FishingBooker: Tenerife Fishing — The Complete Guide for 2026, fishingbooker.com, January 2026
FishingBooker: Canary Islands Fishing — The Complete Guide for 2026, fishingbooker.com
Whale Watch Tenerife: Tenerife Whale Watching Season — cetacean sighting data 2023-2025, whalewatchtenerife.org
OceanCitizen EU: Reclaiming Tenerife’s Ocean, oceancitizen.eu, September 2024
European Commission Oceans and Fisheries: Fisheries ministers agree fishing opportunities for 2026, December 2025, oceans-and-fisheries.ec.europa.eu

Art & Culture

A Nature Traveller’s Guide to Tenerife (With a 7-Day Itinerary)

south coast does exactly what it promises. But Tenerife is an island of extraordinary geographical and ecological variety, and the version of it visible from a resort terrace is perhaps the least representative of what the island actually is.

Tenerife is home to Spain’s highest mountain, three distinct rural parks, a UNESCO biosphere reserve of ancient laurel forest, villages perched at elevations above 1,400 metres, volcanic landscapes that look like the surface of Mars, and a western coastline of sheer black cliffs falling 600 metres into the Atlantic. It has colonial cities with 16th-century architecture, cave-dwelling communities, stargazing sites that rival professional observatories, and natural tidal pools carved into lava rock where locals have swum for generations, completely uninterested in tourism. The island has a population of around 930,000 people living real, varied lives, and understanding a little of that life makes a visit significantly richer.

This guide is for travellers who want more of that Tenerife.

Understanding the Island’s Geography

Getting oriented matters here, because the island’s regions are genuinely distinct and travelling between them takes time. The central volcanic massif, dominated by Mount Teide at 3,715 metres, divides the island climatically: the north is wetter, cooler, and dramatically green; the south is dry, sunny, and more arid. The three main rural areas — Anaga in the northeast, Teno in the northwest, and the Teide highlands in the centre — each offer a completely different landscape and character. A rental car is essential for exploring any of them independently, and it is worth noting that many mountain roads are narrow, steep, and genuinely demanding to drive.

Where to Stay: Choosing Your Base

The most interesting places to base yourself are not on the resort strip. Here are four alternatives worth considering.

La Laguna (northeast) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most beautiful colonial towns in the Atlantic islands. It was the original capital of Tenerife and its historic centre is a grid of 15th and 16th-century streets filled with carved wooden balconies, baroque churches, and a genuinely lively student population from the nearby university. Staying here puts you within easy reach of Anaga Rural Park and Santa Cruz, without sacrificing urban infrastructure. Hotel Laguna Nivaria, housed in a 16th-century mansion, is one of the finest small hotels on the island. 1

Garachico (northwest) was the most important port in the Canary Islands until the volcanic eruption of 1706 destroyed much of it and permanently altered the coastline. What remained was rebuilt thoughtfully, and today it is arguably the most architecturally coherent small town in Tenerife. The natural lava pools at El Caletón, formed in the same eruption that destroyed the port, are now a beloved public swimming area. Boutique Hotel San Roque, an 18th-century mansion facing the sea, and Hotel El Patio, a 16th-century farmhouse set in a 60-acre banana plantation, are both exceptional places to stay. 2

Vilaflor (central highlands) at 1,400 metres above sea level is the highest municipality in Spain, and sitting within it feels genuinely remote. Pine forest surrounds the village, the air smells of resin and altitude, and Teide National Park is just a short drive away. For travellers prioritising time in the volcano landscape, basing yourself here rather than driving up from the coast every day changes the experience entirely.

Anaga villages (northeast) — in particular Taganana, the oldest agricultural settlement in Tenerife, set in a steep valley running down to a black-sand beach — offer a different kind of immersion. Accommodation here is small-scale and basic, but the location inside the biosphere reserve, with walking trails directly from the door, is hard to match.

The Three Landscapes You Must Understand

Teide National Park and the Volcanic Interior

Teide is the obvious centrepiece, and it deserves its reputation. The national park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most visited natural sites in the world, but it is large enough that you can find solitude if you walk beyond the car parks. The caldera, known as Las Cañadas, is a 17-kilometre wide depression formed by the collapse of a previous volcanic edifice, and the landscape within it — lava rivers, ash plains, volcanic cones in shades of ochre and rust, and the extraordinary Roques de García rock formation — is unlike anything else in Europe. 3

The summit of Teide itself requires a permit to access the final 200 metres to the crater rim; permits are free but must be reserved well in advance through the national park website. The Telesforo Bravo trail, when an entry permit is obtained, is one of the most extraordinary hikes on the island, ascending through multiple volcanic zones. For those without a summit permit, the trail around Roques de García is an accessible and genuinely beautiful alternative, taking roughly ninety minutes and offering Teide in full view throughout.

After sunset, the altitude and absence of light pollution make Teide one of the finest stargazing locations in the northern hemisphere. The Mirador de Llano de Ucanca and the Portillo area are good spots for amateur stargazing; guided telescope tours depart from various operators in the park. 4

Anaga Rural Park: The Ancient Forest

Anaga is, in a very literal sense, one of the oldest living things in Europe. The laurisilva — the laurel forest — that covers much of this UNESCO biosphere reserve is a relic of the subtropical forests that covered much of southern Europe and North Africa before the Pleistocene ice ages. When those forests vanished from the continent, pockets survived in the Canary Islands, Madeira, and the Azores. Walking through Anaga’s mist-covered ridges and moss-draped trees is not merely walking through an old forest; it is walking through a landscape that has not fundamentally changed in millions of years. 5

The trails here range from gentle ridgeline walks with Atlantic views in both directions to more demanding descents into the deep barrancos (ravines) that separate the Anaga massif’s many ridges. The trail from Punta de Hidalgo up to the cave village of Chinamada — where several families still live in traditional cave houses carved into the hillside, some of them inhabited for centuries — is one of the most culturally and scenically rewarding hikes on the island. The coastal walk from the hamlet of Benijo to the Faro de Anaga lighthouse and back through Chamorga is longer and more demanding but offers one of the most remote feelings achievable in Tenerife. 6

The Cruz del Carmen visitor centre, at the main road through the park, is a useful orientation point and has staff who can advise on trail conditions.

The Teno Massif: Cliffs, Gorges, and Masca

The Teno Rural Park in the island’s northwest corner is geologically the oldest part of Tenerife, and it looks it — angular, layered, deeply eroded by millennia of wind and rain. The main road through the Teno mountains to the village of Masca is one of the most dramatic drives in Spain: a single-lane road that clings to cliffsides above thousand-metre drops, with a viewpoint that looks out across the Atlantic toward La Gomera.

Masca itself is a small village of stone houses that seems to cling to the mountainside by force of will. It has become increasingly popular in recent years, and an early start is strongly recommended to avoid the worst of the crowds. From Masca, the descent into the Barranco de Masca gorge to the black-sand beach at its base is one of the island’s iconic hikes, though it requires an advance permit and careful planning; boat collection from the beach rather than the return ascent is the standard approach. 7

Elsewhere in the Teno, the Chinyero Special Nature Reserve protects the site of the last volcanic eruption on Tenerife, which took place in 1909. The lava fields here are still raw and largely unvegetated, and the circular trail around the Chinyero cone gives a visceral sense of the island’s ongoing geological life. 8

Cultural Touchstones

Outside of nature, several experiences offer genuine insight into Canarian culture. La Laguna’s historic centre merits at least half a day of unhurried walking — the cathedral, the convents, the narrow streets of the Casco Histórico, and the Aguere cultural space. La Orotava, a town in the Orotava Valley on the northern slope of Teide, has some of the finest examples of traditional Canarian architecture anywhere in the islands: carved pine balconies, stone mansions, cobbled streets. The Casa de los Balcones is the most visited building in the town, though the whole historic centre is worth wandering. The valley below, filled with banana and potato terraces and still farmed in traditional strips, is a reminder that Tenerife had a complex agricultural life before tourism arrived.

The Drago Milenario in Icod de los Vinos — a Dracaena draco, or dragon tree, estimated to be between 500 and 1,000 years old — is one of the botanical landmarks of the Atlantic islands. The species is endemic to the Canary Islands and Madeira and was sacred to the indigenous Guanche people; its red sap was known as dragon’s blood and had ceremonial and medicinal uses. The tree in Icod is the largest specimen known. 9

For an encounter with the island’s pre-Hispanic past, the Pyramids of Güímar in the east of the island are a genuinely puzzling site: six stepped pyramidal structures of uncertain origin, oriented to the solstice sun. They were brought to international attention by the explorer Thor Heyerdahl, who believed them to be of pre-Columbian significance. The on-site museum presents multiple interpretive perspectives with appropriate caution.

Suggested 7-Day Itinerary

This itinerary is designed to move through the island’s distinct regions at a pace that allows genuine engagement with each. A rental car is essential throughout.

Day 1 — Arrive, La Laguna Check in to La Laguna. Spend the afternoon walking the historic centre. Evening in the city’s restaurant and bar scene.

Day 2 — Anaga Rural Park Full day in Anaga. Morning: drive the Anaga mountain road with stops at viewpoints above Taganana and the Cruz del Carmen visitor centre. Afternoon: hike the Punta de Hidalgo to Chinamada trail (roughly 4 hours round trip, moderate difficulty). Return to La Laguna.

Day 3 — Santa Cruz, then drive north to Garachico Morning in Santa Cruz: the Tenerife Auditorium, the Mercado Nuestra Señora de África, and the seafront. Early afternoon: drive to Garachico (roughly 1 hour). Check in. Explore the town and swim at El Caletón tidal pools before sunset.

Day 4 — Teno Massif and Masca Early start. Drive the Teno road to Masca (arrive before 9am). Walk the Barranco de Masca if booked in advance, exiting by boat; otherwise explore the village and hike the Santiago del Teide to Masca ridge trail. Afternoon: Chinyero lava field walk.

Day 5 — Drive south via La Orotava, ascend to Vilaflor Morning in La Orotava: Casa de los Balcones, the old town, the valley viewpoints. Drive through Icod de los Vinos to see the Drago Milenario. Continue south and upward to Vilaflor. Check in to local accommodation. Evening: early night ahead of Teide day.

Day 6 — Teide National Park Full day in the park. Morning: Roques de García circuit (1.5 hours). If summit permit held: Telesforo Bravo ascent. Afternoon: explore the caldera floor. Stay until after dark for stargazing at Mirador de Llano de Ucanca.

Day 7 — Anaga coast or rest day, return Optional: drive to Taganana for a walk down to the beach, or return to La Laguna for a last morning in the city. Depart.

Sources

The Hotel Guru: Best Places to Stay in Tenerife, thehotelguru.com; Hotel Laguna Nivaria listing
Secret Places: Boutique Hotels Garachico, secretplaces.com; Hotel El Patio and Boutique Hotel San Roque
Our Wanders: Best Day Hikes in Tenerife, ourwanders.com, March 2026
Tenerife Excursions: Tenerife — stunning nature between Teide, Anaga, and unique landscapes, escursionitenerife.com, October 2025
Hiking Fex: Tenerife Hiking — 30 most beautiful hikes, hikingfex.com, September 2025
Moon Honey Travel: Hiking Tenerife Mountains, moonhoneytravel.com
Charlies Wanderings: The 7 Very Best Hikes in Tenerife, charlieswanderings.com, August 2025
Our Wanders: Best Day Hikes in Tenerife — Chinyero section, ourwanders.com
Let Y Go: Itinerary of the 6 Little-Known Villages of Tenerife — Icod de los Vinos section, letygoeson.it, July 2025

Feature Destination

Is It Safe to Swim in Tenerife? A 2026 Guide to Beach Water Quality and Coastal Pollution

The question visitors to Tenerife are increasingly asking before they book is one that would have seemed unusual a few years ago: is the water actually safe to swim in? It is a fair and important question, and one that deserves a straightforward, evidence-based answer rather than either alarming exaggeration or reassuring dismissal. The situation is genuinely complicated, varies significantly by location and season, and is in the middle of a politically charged response from local and national authorities.

The Scale of the Pollution Problem

The water quality crisis affecting parts of Tenerife is not a tabloid invention. In late 2025, the Court of Justice of the European Union formally condemned Spain for failing to comply with the EU’s Urban Wastewater Treatment Directive, identifying at least 12 specific locations on Tenerife where sewage collection, treatment, and discharge into coastal waters was either inadequate or entirely absent. [1] This followed years of documented failures. Environmental analysis cited by campaigners estimated that approximately 57 million litres of wastewater are discharged into Canary Islands seas every day, equivalent in volume to around 17 Olympic swimming pools. [2]

The consequences became impossible to ignore in 2024 and 2025. Playa Jardín, a well-known black-sand beach in Puerto de la Cruz on the island’s north coast, was closed for almost a year after E. coli levels in the water significantly exceeded safe limits. Investigations revealed fractured discharge pipes, pumping stations operating without legal authorisation, and a wastewater treatment plant that had gone years without the mandatory inspections and repairs. [3] In August 2025, the Public Prosecutor’s Office took the unusual step of charging six officials — including a former mayor of Puerto de la Cruz and the island’s former Tourism Department head — with environmental negligence and mismanagement of public infrastructure. [3]

The Spanish environmental NGO Ecologistas en Acción, which publishes an annual “Black Flag” report ranking the worst-managed coastal zones in Spain, awarded black flags to both Playa Jardín and Puertito de Adeje in its 2025 edition. [4] Puertito de Adeje, on the island’s southwest coast, was flagged not for E. coli but for what the organisation described as poor management in relation to new luxury coastal development and an underwater garden project that critics argue threatens endangered marine species. [4]

Storm events have made the underlying infrastructure problems dramatically visible. When Storm Claudia brought heavy rainfall in November 2025, drainage systems in Garachico and Las Américas were overwhelmed, sending wet wipes, oils, and other debris onto the shore. Beachgoers in Las Américas reported finding white, greasy masses on the sand, which chemists explained as the product of soaps and oils in wastewater reacting when pushed out to sea. [5] The Canary Islands government’s own discharge register, updated in 2025, recorded 403 coastal discharge points across the archipelago, with more than half operating without full authorisation. [1]

The Response: €81 Million and a 2030 Target

In February 2026, Tenerife’s Island Council formally presented an €81 million infrastructure plan designed to address these failures over a four-year period running through 2030. The plan covers modernising outdated wastewater networks, increasing treatment capacity, preventing unauthorised coastal discharges, and improving coordination between the island’s municipalities, which have historically operated fragmented and sometimes incompatible sanitation systems. [6] Vice President Lope Afonso framed the initiative around a “zero waste” ambition and called on all local municipalities to participate in the 2027-2030 Cooperation Plan. [6]

The plan has been welcomed cautiously by environmental groups. The Tenerife Association of Friends of Nature (ATAN), which was among the first organisations to raise public alarms about the contamination crisis in early 2026, has called for more transparency about the actual scale of coastal pollution and demanded that tourists be given honest information about water quality at specific beaches rather than generic reassurances. [1] This tension between the island’s economic dependence on tourism and the imperative to communicate environmental problems honestly is not going away quickly.

Where Is It Actually Safe to Swim?

The water quality situation varies significantly across Tenerife’s coastline, and not all beaches are affected equally. The problems documented in official reports are concentrated primarily in the north of the island, around Puerto de la Cruz and parts of the northeast coast, and in specific southern locations where infrastructure has struggled to keep pace with resort development.

The southern resort strip between Los Cristianos and Costa Adeje generally maintains higher water quality, supported by more recently built sanitation infrastructure and EU Blue Flag certification at several beaches. Blue Flag status, awarded annually by the Foundation for Environmental Education, requires compliance with strict water quality testing, environmental management standards, and safety requirements — making it the most reliable indicator of consistently clean swimming water available to visitors. [7]

Practical guidance for 2026 visitors: check the current flag status at your specific beach on arrival, not the status from a previous season. Red flag means swimming is forbidden, regardless of the reason. Avoid swimming within 48 hours of heavy rainfall anywhere on the island, as storm runoff affects even beaches that are generally well managed. The north coast, including the Puerto de la Cruz area, carries higher current risk than the southwest. Beaches within the southern resort area with active Blue Flag certification — including Playa de Troya, Playa del Duque, and Las Vistas in Los Cristianos — are your safest options while the infrastructure improvements work their way through the system.

Looking Ahead

Tenerife’s coastal pollution crisis is real, but it is being taken seriously in a way it was not a few years ago. EU legal pressure, criminal charges against officials, a significant funding commitment, and genuine civic pressure from environmental organisations have combined to produce a political response with specific targets and timelines. Whether that response is adequate, and whether it moves fast enough to protect both public health and the island’s reputation, is a question that will be answered in the coming years.

What is certain is that the era of uncritical optimism about Tenerife’s beach water quality is over. Visitors deserve accurate information, and the island’s long-term interests as a destination are better served by honest communication than by silence.

Sources

BritBrief: Health alert for Canary Islands — tourists warned about beach water pollution, britbrief.co.uk, January 2026
National World: Warning to avoid 48 Black Flag beaches in Spain, nationalworld.com, June 2024
DaNews.eu: Prosecutor charges six officials over pollution at Playa Jardín in Tenerife, August 2025
Travel Tomorrow: Tenerife set to invest €81 million to clean up island’s coastline and reputation, traveltomorrow.com, February 2026
Canarian Weekly: Waste and pollution wash up on Tenerife’s coastline again, canarianweekly.com
Travel and Tour World: Tenerife Plans to Invest Eighty Million Euros in Overhauling Water and Sanitation Infrastructure, travelandtourworld.com, February 2026
Curious Expeditions: Is the sea clean in Tenerife?, curiousexpeditions.org, March 2026