Islas Cíes: the Islands of the Gods

Sarah Murray

The Cíes Islands (Islas Cíes) are a hidden paradise off the coast of northwestern Spain. The wild landscapes, white sand beaches, and turquoise waters beckon to those wishing to escape civilization.

Called the “Islands of the Gods” by the Romans, these picture-perfect islands make a great day trip from mainland Galicia. For those looking for a longer escape, there is a campground on Illa do Faro.

The Cíes Islands can only be reached by boat – ferries leave from Vigo, Baiona, or Cangas. (Those hoping to camp should obtain permits in Vigo beforehand.)

With their white-sand beaches and crystal clear turquoise waters, it’s easy to see why the local Galicians nicknamed the islands the ‘Caribbean of Europe.’ But one dip in the water might have you cursing the Galician’s and their nickname: the water temps are more bracing than tropical.

The largest beach on the islands, Praia de Rodas, was named the best beach in the world by the Guardian in 2007. The long sweeping crescent of white sand meets the bright turquoise waters of the Atlantic on one side and is backed by a tranquil lagoon on the other.

For those not content to lie on the beach and work on their tans, the islands offer some excellent hiking trails.

On Faro (Lighthouse) Island, hikers can enjoy trails that link the islands lighthouses, dramatic cliffs, tranquil coves, and the remains of an ancient Celtic settlement.

Monteagudo Island also has trails to enjoy. The hike to Alto de Principe offers excellent views of the other islands and the crescent of Playa de Rodas. The trail also passes by Playa de Figuieras, which (fair warning) is a nudist beach.

The islands are a part of the National Land-Marine Park of the Atlantic Islands of Galicia, established in 2002. The wild landscapes provide a great variety of ecosystems, both above and below the water.

The western sides of the islands – battered by the Atlantic – give way to stunning near-vertical cliffs. In some places it’s more than a 100 m drop to the swirling waters below.

Woodlands can be found on the eastern sides of the islands, where they are sheltered from the raging winds of the Atlantic. Unfortunately, many of the native trees have been replaced by pine and eucalyptus, a pervasive problem throughout Galicia.

The Cíes are also a Special Protected Area for Birds. Birds of prey, pelicans, petrels, and woodpeckers also call the islands home. The islands also house one of the largest breeding colonies of the yellow-legged gull. A bird observatory at Alta da Campa offers a bird watching blind.

Though you won’t find the coral reefs and tropical fish of the real Caribbean, the Caribbean of Europe has its own underwater beauty. Thanks to the rich waters and variety of underwater landscapes, there is a great diversity of life in the waters off of the Cíes. Snorkling and diving are popular, though a wetsuit is definitely recommended.

If you’re hungry or parched after your day in the sun, a café on Monteagudo offers refreshments. Though the selection is nothing to write home about, it will do the trick for a post-hike (or post sunbathing) reward.

 


sarah murray headshotSarah is a researcher, writer, photographer, and artist with a lifelong love for the oceans. 
 
Contact her at sarah.murray6289@gmail.com and visit sarahamurray.com 
 
 
 
 
 

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