Issue 58 - March 2020

Haunted Waters by Haley Horvat

When originally briefed for this dive, I pictured abandoned nets floating between coral formations like volleyball nets. Now, finally, beneath the surface of the ocean, I scan the rocky, urchin-covered Samran Pinnacle, nestled in the Gulf of Thailand, through the clear, sun-filled water, and see none.

a female scuba diver is diving in the ocean over the coral and sea orchins

Knowing I won’t end up tangled in the net, I remind myself to breathe and let out a long slow breath. As I inhale, my stomach expands and chest rises, the image of the giant underwater boulder as a netted wasteland dissolves from my mind. Floating with the current, the three other interns and I calmly drift along with the rocky spire with each fin kick.

Ghost Nets

I was not just looking for any old plastic in the sea, but for ghost nets. It was concluded that 46% of the contents of the Great Pacific Garbage Patch is comprised of deserted plastic fishing nets, known as “ghost nets.”

Ghost nets don’t simply add to the commotion of garbage patches, they haunt the reefs. If left without immediate attention, a reef will grow over the net in the places where the net let enough light through for the corals to survive. These nets are massive, ranging from a few hundred feet to miles long, and act as fish (and diver) booby traps. Even after fishing boats have cut ties on them due to entanglement on unforeseen reefs, they continue to do what they were created for – entrap fish and sea life.

Three scuba divers are pulling a massive fishing net under the ocean to save the coral reef and marine lives

There is no simple solution to reducing the number of ghost nets due to the vast expense of reaching the nets and hiring divers, additionally the activity is extremely time-consuming and potentially dangerous. The nets are often unwittingly snagged on marine obstacles below; it is a considerable financial loss to the fishermen and harmful to marine life when nets are left behind.

a scuba diver is pulling a fishing net from the coral in the deep ocean

Forgotten Marine Conservation

I watch bubbles escape from my regulator and make their way to where water and air meet; I imagine them erupting on the surface. As I envision this, I admire the ethereal blue light I find myself floating in, gentle and free. The clarity of the water is due to the minimal particles, so the sunlight is absorbed directly into it instead of reflecting off of the particles which makes the water appear more clouded. Today, the water’s visibility is almost 30 meters.

Lost in the ocean’s serene beauty, I wonder why marine environments are forgotten about when we think of conservation issues? Is it because so many have never admired them? Because people don’t live in the oceans? Or is it simply because they don’t have the capacity or means to care? Marine environments are more difficult to reach and to monitor full time in order to protect, especially since some areas can be miles offshore. Additionally, they are much more complicated to mark in order to designate protection and when marked, buoys often move or are run over by careless boat captains.

Samran Pinnacle which lays between Koh Phangan and Koh Tao (an island that is known to be a diver’s paradise), is a perfect example of this devastating environmental problem. Fortunately, past individual efforts to reduce the waste have had an impact on the pinnacle, and the apparent absence of nets in this place gives me hope. Descending to 25 meters, however, a graveyard of decayed fishing gear on the ocean’s floor becomes visible. Again dismayed, I wonder if this is the future fate of all oceans.

COREsea

In the afternoon briefing the day before, Stef, our dive instructor at the Center for Oceanic Research and Education (COREsea) facility, pointed to the smeared chalkboard that hadn’t been erased since this time last year. All the interns sat in a circle around him as he drew a map of Samran Pinnacle so we could mentally orient ourselves. We studied how to correctly collect the net, rolling it downwards with gravity as to not make things more difficult.

“Don’t fight the ocean” he instructed in his English accent. “You’ll never win.”

He reviewed how to inflate our Buoyancy Control Devices (BCD) to help carry the collected nets – an impossible task on land, but with water’s buoyancy on our side, and a little bit of extra oxygen trapped in our BCDs for lift, it would come more easily. We counted how many people would bring dive knives and how many people needed scissors to cut through the net.

Two Sides to Every Story

a female scuba diver is cutting a fishing net out of the rock under the ocean

The only thing left to determine was what to do with the net once it was collected. It seemed like a trick question, and it was. “Take it out, of course,” I almost blurted out. “We don’t need any more plastic in the sea.” I’m glad I didn’t.

We had two options: swim the net to the surface or cut it free.

Option one, bringing it to the surface, we would have to figure out how to get this waterlogged, algae-covered, organism-alluring thing onto the boat, cutting out every potential Convex Reef Crab, Butterflyfish, and other crustaceans from the twisted and tangled net, as to not kill all these creatures which we had taken from their oceanic home.

Option two, cutting the net free, required bundling it up, swimming 30 meters away from Samran, and dropping it to the seafloor- allowing the plastic to remain in the sea but also allowing the marine life in the net to live and create new habitat, or novel ecosystem, from the net. This would allow the creatures to adapt to their new, human-altered environment. The marine life would ultimately be modifying the way they live by learning to use human impact to their advantage.

As none of us were scientists, at least not yet, we consulted COREsea’s director and head marine biologist, Eike, the most passionate, sea-loving, Thai speaking, German I had ever met. By this point, I had met quite a few marine enamoured Germans, but none quite like Eike. With a background in conservation and his love for all things oceanic, Eike advised we drop the nets, making it safer for the divers participating in the net removal and allowed intertwined marine life the opportunity to live on.

a scuba diver is cutting a fishing net entangled with a coral reef while a male scuba diver is holding the rest pop the net right behind

A New Home

I learned that larger animals such as fish and turtles would most certainly die if they get caught in the gill nets. However, small crustaceans such as crabs, sea worms and small shrimp could easily move throughout the netting, even when bundled. In fact, they essentially turn the nets into their new dwellings since it acts as an artificial reef. And when the net it collected and dropped to the deep sea, the critters may continue to thrive in their cozy quarters.

two scuba diver are diving in the ocean around the coral reef

Now here we were, with that plan in mind.

Swimming around Samran Pinnacle once to determine where our efforts are best focused, we get to work on a smaller net adhered to the side, around 22 meters deep. It’s one we can easily handle among the four divers present. Armed with gloves to fend off urchin pokes, we snip at the green plastic net twisted around the reef, careful of the new coral growth which had engulfed it. This allows the coral to continue building reefs without uprooting the animals and destroying them. Free of fish, we ball up the net until it is the size of a football and squeeze it in our bag.

In a few minutes, we have made this tiny corner of the reef free from nets. And while others work on the same task, we have a good chance of leaving the reef better than we found it. But it’s hard to know for sure – is it “better” to remove all the plastic from the ocean and take vulnerable sea life with it? Or to remove some plastic, leaving other large pieces to spare the hostage shrimp and crabs that got confused in fishermen’s grasps, ultimately making the nets their new homes?

two scuba divers are shaking hands under the ocean above the seaweed

Safe for Today

Slowly ascending to the surface, I try to keep track of my bubbles wiggling side to side all the way up to the surface as I wait at five meters for my decompression stop. I think about how differently this could have gone. I think about all the yellow and black batfish, the brown and tan Malabar groupers sitting on the ocean-floor dwarfing me in comparison, the eels popping out of their homes, and other sea critters who swarm and call the pinnacle reef home. Today they are lucky, they continue to swim without too many hazards dropped from fishing vessels above.

But this may not always be the case. With unsustainable fishing practices choking the natural wonders, and few advocates for the marine life below, the reef could turn into a marine desert filled with all-encompassing nets. When Samran Pinnacle reaches this point, it won’t only be the fish in trouble, it will be the local villagers of these coastal regions who cannot catch fish due to degraded reefs and unregulated taking from marine environments, they will have to find a new way to feed themselves and to make their incomes.

After I surface, I spit out my regulator and breathe my first breath of salty, humid air after an hour of being underwater. I take in the grey sky above and rising waves below; a storm is on its way.

a group of scuba diver under the ocean in the coral reef holding a sign saying that 'Climate Strike'

Sources: https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-22939-w

About The Author

Haley Horvat is a master’s candidate for environmental management at Western Colorado University. She has focused her master’s project around science communication for marine ecosystems and is currently interning for Icoral as the Citizen Science Communications Intern and also for High Country News Magazine as the Fact-checking Intern. Haley grew up in the suburbs of Chicago and found her passion for marine ecosystems and oceans while visiting her grandparents in Florida every winter as she grew up. In her free time, she adores scuba diving tropical waters and creative writing (with a pen and notebook, of course).

About the Photographer, Stefan Follows

From 2001 I have worked as a diving instructor, dive centre manager, and dive guide predominantly in the Gulf of Thailand, which finally got me into the ocean and allowed me virtually endless opportunities to indulge in my passions for teaching, diving, photography and all things aquatic. For the past seven years, I have been leading the education department of Core Sea, a small research field station on Koh Pha Ngan, which continues to give me time for my watery desires. Take a look at what Core sea does here, When I’m not at Core sea I take the time to explore, dive, photograph and produce the watery works that you will find on this site.

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Feature Destination

Japan Photo Series

a woman walking in the rain with an oil umbrella

The memory of a Geisha by Tianshu Liu

Old Way in New Day

Itsukushima Shrine by Nicki Eliza Schinow

The name Itsukushima literally means ‘island of worship’ and from ancient times the island itself was worshipped as a god. The mystical Itsukushima Shrine built on the water was inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 1996.

The world-renowned busiest pedestrian crossing ‘Shibuya’. It is also one of the most popular attractions that make travellers’ list of top recommendations.

People in Japan believe that the koi fish symbolizes wealth, prosperity, love, successful career and good fortune

Tea Ceremony in Kyoto in Japan.

Traditional Japanese Theater and Festival Masks

References

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Issue 58 - March 2020

SEVENSEAS Travel Magazine – March 2020 – Issue 58

March 2020 Cover SEVENSEAS Marine Conservation & Travel Magazine Giacomo Abrusci

What I Learned by Visiting Japan as a Sustainable Traveler?

a canal with sakura blooming on the side at a festive night time

Over the years, Japan’s tourism industry has experienced a significant boom. While it may have a positive effect on the economy, it can put a strain on the environment. Green tourisRead more…

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Majority of U.S. adults believe climate change is the most important issue today

As the effects of climate change become more evident, more than half of U.S. adults (56%) say climate change is the most important issue facing society today, yet 4 in 10 have not made any changes in their behaviour to reduce their contribution to climate change, according to a new poll by the American Psychological Association. Read more…

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Psychedelic frogfish – Photo taken in Ambon, Indonesia — Jack’s March Underwater Photograph

The Psychedelic Frogfish (Histiophryne psychedelica) is one of the weirdest fish, ever found in the ocean and it is considered as the Holy Grail of Underwater Macro Photography. The Psychedelic frogfish is not only an insane-looking fish, but it’s also one of the rarest and hard to find, known only from one particular location, and it’s seasonal too. Read more…

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5 Beach Getaways Off the Beaten Path

a woman is standing on the beach relaxing herself

For many guests, diving at Six Senses Laamu is a special experience because of guaranteed encounters with megafauna including manta rays, sharks and turtles; common finds in the abundant dive sites of Laamu Atoll, which guests enjoy all to themselves. Read more…

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Sustainable Escapes: See the world, save the world

Make your escape to 180 fabulous destinations that have positive impacts on the environment. Organized across five themes—Nature, Relaxation, Culture, Urban, and Learning—Sustainable Escapes showcases the world’s best eco-conscious trips as varied as tropical hideaways and citizen science projects at the poles. Read more…

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TUI Care Foundation & The Reef-World Foundation empower youth ambassadors protecting coral reefs in the Dominican Republic

The TUI Care Foundation and The Reef-World Foundation are launching an initiative to help protect coral reefs in the Dominican Republic. Read more…

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Ocean Acidification Threatens Livelihoods and Lives. Can Anyone Be Held Accountable?

A change is brewing in our world’s oceans: waters are warming and becoming more acidic. The long-term effects of these changes could be ruinous for marine life worldwide, and for the people who depend on it for their food and income. Read more…

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Southern Australian dolphins like to raise their young in the sisterhood

a dolphin is jumping above the water while swimming in the ocean

Female southern Australian dolphins like to raise their young within the sisterhood as they hope the strength in numbers boosts their babies’ chances of survival, according to researchers from Flinders University in South Australia. Read more…

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Six Senses Laamu Introduces Blackwater Diving in the Maldives

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Students from Around the World Raise Awareness of Climate Change Through Art

Bow Seat Ocean Awareness Programs is honoured to share the winners of our eighth annual Ocean Awareness Contest, an international call for art that invites teenagers to create pieces that explore and raise awareness of ocean conservation issues. Read more

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Haunted Waters by Haley Horvat

a scuba diver holding a fishing net under the dark ocean

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UCI discovery points to aquaculture potential of the monkeyface prickleback

A secret to survival amid rising global temperatures could be dwelling in the tidepools of the U.S. West Coast. Findings by the University of California, Irvine biologists studying the genome of an unusual fish residing in those waters offer new possibilities for humans to obtain dietary protein as climate change imperils traditional sources. Read more…

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On Eating Meat: The truth about its production and the ethics of eating it

How can 160,000 deaths in one day constitute a “medium-sized operation?” Think beef is killing the world? What about asparagus farms? Or golf? Eat dairy? You’d better eat veal, too. Read more…

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Travel Story by PK: My First Vacay in Krabi I

After five long years, I finally had my very first vacation in Krabi. Many people might ask why would you wait that long but trust me ‘Thing doesn’t always go as plans’. Read more…

The FREE Weekly Conservation Post and Jobs List

Signing up for the free Weekly Newsletter & Jobs List will get you a round-up of upcoming events, webinars, meetings, reports, funding opportunities, photos of the week, and recent postings to the jobs list.

To sign up for our free subscription, please Click Here or email us Here.

Since 2004, SEVENSEAS Media has fostered an informal and non-partisan platform to promote understanding of key issues and challenges while building partnerships across an increasingly diverse group of marine conservation professionals and students.

Our mission is to promote communication and build partnerships across the global marine community and to identify and address gaps in the community’s work. SEVENSEAS Media achieves this through multimedia promotion and partnerships. The community consists of a diverse and growing group of participants, including non-governmental organizations, government agencies, foundations, bilateral and multilateral agencies, fellowship programs, independent consultants, and academia/students.

If you are interested in contributing or getting involved, email us Here.

SEVENSEAS FEATURED TRAVEL

Below are a few of our favorite tour centers and operators. Be sure to mention SEVENSEAS Media for special rates and discounts when making your inquiry.

Susan Bruce Travel

We’ve been travelling, advising clients, and planning trips across the globe for over 30 years. We help you explore amazing places and people — from mountain sanctuaries in Bhutan to the jungles of Peru. Learn more…

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Oceanic Society Expeditions.

A selection of expeditions and volunteer vacations for our travellers that will further the mission to conserve marine wildlife and habitats. More info.

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Alelí Tours Puerto Rico

Alelí Tours is a small-scale ecotourism business located in La Parguera, southwest Puerto Rico. More info.

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Isla Mar Research Expeditions – Field Courses in Puerto Rico

A field course coordination company in Puerto Rico that specializes in organizing and hosting island ecology (marine/terrestrial) themed courses. More info.

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Ever dream of swimming with humpback whales? Now you can.

If you are interested in swimming with or photographing humpback whales Karim guides… More info.

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Bangkok Photo Tours

We visit traditional sights but focus on markets, street art, and local food. All camera forward and environmentally sensitive. More info.

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Pangaea Ocean Sailing Expedition

Panex is opening up sailing expeditions for the guest crew. This is a unique opportunity to go sailing, cross an ocean, and be a part of something bigger. More info.

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SEE Turtles

…protect endangered turtles throughout Latin America and the world by supporting community-based conservation efforts through ecotourism, education, and Billion Baby Turtles. More info.

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Scuba Junkie Dive Centers

A personal favorite from SEVENSEAS Media. Go to Sipadan, Mabul, Kapalai, Sibuan, Mantabuan, Mataking, and more. More info.

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Marine Megafauna Foundation

Our mission is to save threatened marine life using pioneering research, education, and sustainable conservation solutions, working towards a world where marine life and humans thrive together. Read more… More info.

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Loggerhead Marinelife Center

Imagine roaming some of the world’s most beautiful ecosystems. Gorgeous vistas, affordable travel and amazing memories; immersing yourself in the sounds of nature. More info.

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Pete Oxford Expeditions

We offer unique, small-group expeditions for travellers and photographers to remote and pristine destinations and cultures around the world. More info.

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Alnitak Conservation in Action on Volunteer Expeditions

Alnitak is a grassroots marine science organization dedicated to the conservation of biodiversity in our oceans. From May through to October, we run expeditions to survey the rich waters in the Balearic Sea, inviting any ocean enthusiasts to join us on board. Our expeditions take place in the stunning Cabrera National Park and the Menorca Biosphere Reserve. Read more…

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Issue 58 - March 2020

Travel Story by PK: My First Vacay in Krabi I

After five long years, I finally had my very first vacation back in Krabi. Many people might ask why would you wait that long but trust me ‘Thing doesn’t always go as plans’.

It was Friday morning. I didn’t sleep at all because the excitement kept me up all night. Without any preparation, I just put a few clothes and a laptop in my backpack, then I waited. Until I felt like it was the right time, I called a taxi heading to Don Muang airport. The traffic wasn’t bad since I was a bit early before the rush hours.

When I arrived at the airport, my friend was already there like 20 mins before me. Like I’ve told you earlier, things didn’t go as we’d planned. My friend told me that we missed the flight. Well according to the email we’ve received from the airline, it said that our flight would be postponed from 6 o’clock to 11 o’clock. Unfortunately, there might be some kind of miscommunication at that point.

a lagoon in Phi Phi island — Blue Lagoon

So…either buying new flight tickets which will cost us around 6,900 baht, which was not part of our plan, or give up the trip but that wasn’t the choice.

NO! That was not my plan. I need a vacation and I need it this weekend. I gave up the trip to Phuket last year but I was not gonna do it again. Therefore, we looked up the internet and searched for an alternative way to Krabi. At the end of that morning, we decided to take a tourist bus. We purchased the tickets online and went back home because the bus would leave the station at 5:30 pm and we didn’t want to sit there from 12 o’clock until then.

Well, I went back home and tried to finish the work as much as I could before going to the bus station. I was gonna do it in Krabi in the evening but since

a monkey holding a rob hanging above the sea water — At one of the sightseeing spot the Monkey Bay, usually, there were many monkeys but it was very hot on that day so we saw only one or two monkeys at the bay.

The first glance after arriving at the bus station, I realised that I’d never ever travelled by the tourist bus before in my life. When I was young, I usually travelled with my mother and she’s the driver. By the way, Before we got on the bus, I dropped by 7/11 for some snacks, light food, and a bottle of water since I was a bit concerned that there might not be food provided and we had to be on the bus for more than 12 hours.

A long journey is not new for me but spending the next 12 hours on the bus could be painful.

The seat on the bus, I must say, was very comfortable. I spent the first four hours of sleep before I was woken by a deep snoring noise from the front seat. The toilet on the bus was horrifying. I was okay for peep peep but not for umm… It could be a bit bumpy for ladies. However, it wasn’t as bad as I thought. Oh, wait! I forgot to talk about my friend. Well, he slept most of the time when he was on the bus. I didn’t know how he did that.

Later, around 10 or 11 o’clock, I was surprised that the bus stopped at a restaurant and they had food provided for us. It was actually complimentary. Everyone could eat as much as they wanted like a buffet. We had mush with Chinese-pork salami, pickled lettuce salad, stir-fried cucumbers with eggs, pickled lettuce soup with pork ribs, and something I didn’t know exactly what it was. Some people just ate at the restaurant outside. After we finished our late dinner, I wandered around the supermarket for a while before I got on the bus and rested. With that full stomach, I was asleep until 5 or maybe 6 in the morning.

The moment I opened my eyes, I saw the sea and the mountains on both sides of the road. I started to feel relief from the inside while physically suffering on the bus. Eventually, we arrived at the Krabi transportation route around 7:45 am.

We took a motor taxi to the hostel, Glur. From the station to the hostel, it cost us only 100 baht for each of us which was not so bad at all since the ride was almost 20 mins.

The hostel is located in Ao Nang beach surrounded by restaurants, street-food vendors, coffee shops, and etc. From outside, the hostel seems so small that I thought there might not be many tourists or visitors. When we walked inside, it was another story. It is incredibly cosy and well decorated. After we checked in, we made a quick observation and we were so thankful that we didn’t book for a hotel. There are 8 different room types. Our room has a bunk bed and a private bathroom which is very accomodating.

After 20 minutes of our arrival, we had to get change real quick and be ready for the van. Yes, It was our second day and we booked a boat to PP island according to the plan. We made it to the beach just in time. The smell of the salty water from the sea just blew my mind. I couldn’t stop smiling. It was such a high. We had to travel with a tour group, most of them seemed nice. We jumped into a speedboat headed to our first destination the Bamboo island.

As far as the eyes could see, the beach on the island was covered by pure white sand. Upon the hill stood a bunch of trees. I was a bit dizzy since it was my first time after a very long while travelling on a boat. An old lady sitting in front of me threw up. Apparently, everyone knew what she had for breakfast.

The first second I stepped on the island. I let the warmth from the sand run through my feet. A non-stop blowing wind could take away my soul. It was amazing and yet the view was breathtaking. I wish We walked around the beach, took some photos, and grab some food. I was a bit disappointed that people here were still using the single-use plastic bag. Anyways, we explore around the beach more before we get back on the boat. I wish I could spend more time here but unfortunately, we had to the other destinations.

The second destinations were the Blue Lagoon, Maya beach, and Monkey Bay for sightseeing. These areas were under protection and conservation at the moment due to the corals’ destruction from the tourist and snorkeler. I enjoyed the views so much that I forgot to take photos. However, I’d asked my friend Dàlton M. Redwood.

Later we passed a Viking cave, which well known as wall paintings & site for harvesting bird nests for a traditional Chinese soup. Again! At this point, I didn’t take any photos. it seemed like I was a kind of person who remembers and sees things through the eyes rather through the lens.

After the sightseeing, we went to Ao Tonsai pier for lunch which included in the trip. We walked a bit to the restaurant. There, the food was self-serve and it was a buffet. We could actually eat as much as we want. My friend and I were starved since I didn’t have a chance to get any breakfast earlier. Everything looked so good and delicious; stirred-fried chicken with bell paper, spaghetti, chicken soup with spice, fried chicken basil, and some fruits. We were disappointed with the test of the food a bit. It seemed like Thai food with an international taste (tasteless). I understood that they try to please the foreigners from different countries and cultures but this was umm…Okay! I had to stop criticising the food and focused on the trip. Yes, I was looking The Pizza Huts, as mentioned by the tour guide earlier, right after we finished the food from that restaurant.

Maya bay — Maya Bay. The red buoys are located to notice the tour group companies that this area is under protection and conservation.

When we finish our lunch, we were wandering around the pier for an hour. It was such a good time and I would never forget this feeling.

We were informed to be back to the boat before 2:30 p.m. and we would have snorkelling for a couple of hours. Sadly, two of the Thai tourists came back to the boat at 2:45 p.m. and we all were sitting on the boat like idiots. At this point, I started to ask my friend if he would be interested to come back again in the future and rent a private boat. There were two spots for snorkelling and we only had 30 mins for each spot. Thanks to those.

We headed back to the shore right after the snorkelling. My friend passed out and I was totally drained. When we got back to our hostel, my friend went out to rent a motorbike. Surprisingly cheap and easy to drive (I don’t drive). We took a short nap and rode to Krabi downtown, Walking Street.

Walking Street is more like food and fair festival. There, the food is incredibly delicious. All are fresh and well cooked. There’s also a live concert (local singers) which is very entertaining. Many tourists come for dinner and drink there. Yet the price is reasonable, especially for seafood. We were completely stuffed and felt sleepy. Both of us went back to the hostel and rest.

It was such a crazy productive day. We did enjoy all the activities, planned and unplanned. The rest of the trip is to continue in April issue.

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