Feature Destination
The Irawaddy River Dolphins – More than just a tourist attraction
Dolphins are always a crowd-pleaser. They’re playful, cute and curious. They capture the imagination of adults and children alike, and I still spend inordinate amounts of time on the bow of a ferry watching out for their crescent fins. But dolphins are also intelligent group hunters – top predators perfectly adapted to their environment. Crucially, they are also an indicator of a healthy ecosystem.
Where are they in Cambodia?
Once numerous, the Dolphin population here is at a critical level. Kratie, or Kraceh is a small town on the Mekong river, around 7 hours by bus from either Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. It is a small town of less than 40,000 people. There are some wonderful, crumbling French Colonial Buildings and a typical Cambodian market selling everything from live chickens to skin lightening cream, all the way to “I love Cambodia” t-shirts for the tourists. Aside from an evening stroll along the waterfront there really isn’t that much to do here. Not that much, except for watching the dolphins.
Kratie is the place to go to see the Irawaddy River Dolphin in Cambodia. This small grey mammal is actually an oceanic dolphin that has adapted to brackish inland waters, but is not a true river dolphin1. It looks somewhat like a grey beluga, with a large round head and no protruding beak.
It tends to be a little shyer than its open water cousins, keeping a wider distance and not riding the bow waves of boats like some of its cousins. If you are seriously lucky, you may see them spy-hopping, but don’t go expecting a full breach!
Spotting the Dolphins Yourself.

Jumping Irrawaddi dolphin at Mekong river, Kampi, Kratié, Cambodia in 2011.
Despite being a small town, there are still too many boats and shipping going on in Kratie for the shy animals, so you’ll need to head up to Kampi to see them. Head north around 16km north to where a series of islands break up the scenery. You can get here by Remorque/Tuk-tuk or by private car. Everyone in Kratie knows the place, so finding it won’t be a problem. If you’re particularly active you can hire a bicycle and get there yourself – Just head north on the main road out of Kratie until you see the giant dolphin statue which is hard to miss. Between 3 or 4 people the price should be pretty negligible at around USD 10-15 for the trip. At said dolphin statue you’ll buy tickets for a boat, either USD 9 for a single person, or USD 7 per person for more of you. Don’t ask me how they worked those numbers out, but these are set by the government so there’s no room for bartering here.
The trip is quite short, between 60-90 minutes. For longer trips or special requests you should bring a Cambodian with you as you won’t find an English Speaker at the viewing area. The driver will then take you out to the sand islands, and upon spotting a pod of dolphins he’ll bank or tie up to a tree while the dolphins are near. I was quite happy to find that our driver used the engine only once after our first sighting of dolphins, and kept it off the rest of the time, letting the dolphins come near us instead of chasing them.
If you want to be particularly environmentally conscious and eliminate the boat noise, I heard good things about Sorya Kayaking Adventures. You’ll have to go in the low water season (Late February to July), as the water is too fast and dangerous to kayak when the water is high. There are no chain hotels here, so the money you spend is going to the right place, but if you want to make an extra bit of difference check out CRDTours. They have a guesthouse (Le Tonle) and tour company which are both social enterprises to fund training and community-based tourism in Kratie and along the Mekong River.
Traditional Views.
The Irawaddy River Dolphin is not just a tourist attraction or an additional source of income for fisherman. The Irawaddy Dolphin is a sacred animal, according to folk tales. The story I heard was that a woman was being chased by an evil force and in desperation threw herself into the river. The river heeded her distress, and turned her into a dolphin, able to escape the evil chasing her2. Even now many people hold the dolphins here in high regard.
This regard is critical. In a country where environmental concerns are still very low on the priority list, the high status of the dolphins means there is hope. Irawaddy Dolphins here are flagship and umbrella species. Increased protection for them is increased protection for the whole ecosystem, from birds, to vegetation, to fish3.
What do the Dolphins need?
Being large mammals, they require a large habitat. While they used to be numerous throughout Cambodia, found along the length of the whole Mekong there are now just 854 individuals that inhabit a single stretch of river between Kratie and the 4,000 islands in Laos. In the dry season, when the rains have stopped and the river level has dropped several metres this range is further restricted to just 9 of the deepest pool areas. Continuous dam construction and modification of the river, such as the Don Sahong Dam (with plans for up to 9 more in Laos) could spell disaster in the dry season5. If there is a drought or lack of rain during the monsoon then more water is withheld upriver, shrinking the dolphin’s habitat further.
Irawaddy Dolphins also need abundant food to survive, and even more to successfully raise calves. Lack of prey fish, either as a knock-on effect of Dam construction, or simply from over-fishing spells trouble for everyone. In Cambodia common fishing practices do not help. Gillnets, poison fishing and even explosive-fishing are frequent6. The Mekong River is already overexploited, with little effective management or policing, and frequently unreported catch levels. While the government has made some progress in this area, there is a long way to go.
Additionally, even though dolphins are sacred here, this only protects them from being targeted, and they still end up as by-catch. Explosive fishing interferes with their sensitive echo-location, poison kills them or their calves, and gillnets across the river can stop the dolphins from moving to a safer area. Worse still, dolphins that get caught in these nets frequently drown, as cutting a dolphin free costs a fisherman his catch and the time spend to repair his nets. In a country where a wages can be as low as USD 200 a month7 the pressure to feed your family takes precedence. Sadly this leads to a mortality rate as high as one dolphin every month8. On such a small population, this is simply unsustainable.
Why do the Dolphins matter?

Kratie, Cambodia, James Antrobus
So what happens if the dolphins disappear? The small amount of tourism here will disappear for certain, as those tourists who stopped over on the way to Laos will just overnight further north at Stung Treng. This won’t affect the country – Angkor Wat alone brings in 2 million foreign visitors a year9, while less than 25,000 visit the town of Kratie10. But it isn’t just foreign money that will dry up.

Kratie, Cambodia, James Antrobus
Dolphins are an indicator here. A decline in the Irrawaddy Dolphin on the Mekong is a distress call that things on the river are not right. This should be heeded by everyone who relies on this resource, as a large number do. Despite having only a small coastline, the consumption of fish in Cambodia can exceed 50 percent of the total animal protein intake11. The vast majority of this is from the Mekong River and Tonle Sap Lake. This mirrors the situation with the marine environment worldwide, where the FAO estimate that nearly 3 billion people12, largely in developing countries such as Cambodia are reliant on fish for their primary source of protein. In these countries there is no safety net, no welfare and no benefits system outside of your friends and family. If the country runs out of fish, a food crisis will follow quickly.
Is it too late?
Whether the Dolphin’s decline on the Mekong can be reversed is yet to be seen. Greater awareness is being promoted, and increased tourism means increased incentive to keep the dolphins alive and find better practices. There is reason to believe that it isn’t too late. Two new dolphin calves were spotted just last August13, so the possibility of a revival is there. Visiting Kratie isn’t just about preserving the dolphins, but all of the Cambodian people that depend on the river’s resources.
Josh is a Marine and Freshwater Biology Graduate who loves to travel. He works and lives in South East Asia, and is keen to promote the aquatic world, and the people who depend upon it.
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References:
http://www.iucnredlist.org/details/15419/0
http://thediplomat.com/2015/04/change-on-the-mighty-mekong/
http://cambodia.panda.org/projects_and_reports/mekong_dolphins/flagship_species/
http://cambodia.panda.org/?202087/freshwater-dolphin-day
http://thediplomat.com/2016/11/killing-the-mekong-dam-by-dam/
http://www.phnompenhpost.com/national/grenade-fishing-endangers-irrawaddy-dolphins
http://www.cbc.ca/news/business/cambodian-garment-workers-get-128-a-month-minimum-wage-1.2832510
http://www.phnompenhpost.com/business/angkor-visitor-numbers-flat-2015
http://www.phnompenhpost.com/increasingly-touristy-city-kratie-sees-upswing-land-prices-election
http://www.fao.org/3/a-i5555e.pdf
https://www.worldwildlife.org/industries/sustainable-seafood
https://www.mekongeye.com/2017/08/17/endangered-baby-dolphin-sightings/
Feature Destination
FEATURE DESTINATION – Journeys With Purpose: The Palau Pledge: How a Tiny Nation is Leading Global Marine Conservation

How could a Pacific island nation of just 20,000 residents create a conservation model many large countries still strive for?
Palau has married cultural pride with global leadership to create a living legacy of conservation and stewardship. Initiatives, including the Palau Pledge, have redefined what it means to travel responsibly and protect marine life; a journey here is a masterclass in purpose-driven tourism.

The Palau Pledge
The Palau Pledge is the world’s first immigration policy centred on environmental responsibility. It was launched on 7 December 2017 and requires every international visitor to sign a pledge upon arrival, stamped directly into their passport. This mandatory commitment, available in multiple languages, helps preserve Palau’s ecosystems and cultural traditions.
Uniquely, the pledge was co-created with local schoolchildren and is addressed to the children of Palau. It repositions tourism as a shared responsibility, symbolising a collective promise to future generations.

Unsurprisingly, this has had global resonance. The Palau Pledge has generated over 1.7 billion media impressions and is on track to reach more than two million signatures in its first decade since inception. It has inspired initiatives beyond its shores with other countries seeking to balance tourism and sustainability.

Palau’s Conservation Achievements
Shark Sanctuary
In a bold world-first move, Palau declared its entire exclusive economic zone a shark sanctuary in 2009. Over 135 shark and ray species have benefitted, as the sanctuary covers all waters up to 200 nautical miles from the coastline, encompassing hundreds of islands. This response to the global decline in shark populations led to a worldwide movement with 17 other countries following suit.
Palau National Marine Sanctuary
In 2015, Palau built on its conservation leadership by establishing the Palau National Marine Sanctuary, which protects 80% of its national waters. It banned all extractive activities, including fishing and mining, in an area about the size of California. It also made a groundbreaking ban on reef-toxic sunscreens to safeguard its coral ecosystems.

This move has protected over 1,300 fish and 700 coral species and safeguarded critical habitats for manta rays, whales and endangered sea turtles. Palau established locally-managed fisheries in the remaining 20% of the waters to also ensure food security for the nation.
The United Nations has praised Palau’s conservation model as it showcases how big of an impact a small island nation can make to protect global marine life.
Palau Wildlife
Marine Life
Some of the planet’s most diverse and vibrant marine life exists in Palau due to its location in the heart of the Coral Triangle. The country’s pioneering conservation efforts ensure over 130 species of sharks can thrive there, as well as manta rays, which glide through the nutrient-dense waters. Over 700 coral species live in the underwater worlds of coral reefs, and hawksbill and leatherback sea turtles have critical nesting grounds on its shores. One of the most unique species here is the stingless golden jellyfish, which occupies ‘Jellyfish Lake’ in the millions.

Land-Based Life
Palau’s land-based wildlife is just as vibrant as its marine wildlife due to millennia of isolation within rich island habitats. Dugongs are among the most rare and elusive residents; these shy, gentle creatures play a crucial ecological role in maintaining healthy seagrass beds. Palau is one of the few places in Micronesia where they graze.
Avian diversity is also exceptional in Palau. There are over 150 recorded bird species, including at least 13 endemics found nowhere else. Colorful residents bring the forests and wetlands to life, such as the Palau Fruit Dove with its soft green plumage and pinkish crown. The Palau Ground Dove, Palau Scops Owl and the Giant White-eye are further examples of species adapted to the country’s diverse habitats, which range from lush tropical forests to limestone islands.
Pioneering Responsible Tourism
The impact of the Palau Pledge extends beyond how visitors experience this island nation. It has transformed the landscape of responsible tourism and blazed a trail for other countries to follow.
At its core, the requirement for every international visitor to sign the pledge created a powerful ‘green nudge’. They must commit to protecting the environment, making stewardship a collective responsibility. 96% of visitors reported being more mindful of their environmental impact, and 65% actively used the pledge’s principles to educate others during their stay.
The Pledge has also catalysed several innovative policies and regulations, including the world’s first ban on reef-toxic sunscreens. Palau has expanded protected areas and introduced ‘Green Fees’, which channel money into local conservation projects, including marine monitoring, waste management and community-led environmental education. Tourism revenue, therefore, delivers tangible benefits to local people and nature.
“Palau is driving investment in large-scale protection to benefit people and the ocean. It is a beacon to the rest of the world.”
— Fiorenza Micheli, Stanford’s Centre for Ocean Solutions

A Model for the World
If we have learned one thing from Palau, it’s that size is not a barrier to global leadership in conservation. Palau has set a benchmark in environmental stewardship by creating the Palau Pledge and vast marine sanctuaries, alongside its unwavering commitment to fostering responsible tourism.
A visit to this Micronesian nation is an opportunity to become part of its conservation success, not just witness it. You can explore its protected seascapes through guided dives and snorkelling excursions and go birdwatching and hiking through its pristine forests. You can even witness discussions among Palau’s environmental leaders and contribute to citizen science projects and conservation monitoring.
This is a rare opportunity. Palau invites you to stand alongside them in fighting for the future of our oceans.
Ready to Take the Pledge?
Journeys With Purpose offers private, conservation-focused journeys to Palau, with tailor-made itineraries built around your passions. Get in touch with our expert travel specialists today on +44 20 8044 9538 or at connect@journeyswithpurpose.org to find out more.
Feature Destination
FEATURE DESTINATION – Tiger Conservation in India: In Conversation with JWP Managing Director Venetia

In Conversation with Venetia: A Journey Through India’s Tiger Conservation Heartland
Journeys with Purpose Managing Director Venetia recently returned from her first trip to India, where she experienced one of the world’s greatest wildlife recovery stories. Over four transformative weeks, she tracked leopards in Rajasthan, journeyed deep into Madhya Pradesh’s tiger reserves and learned from the conservationists and local communities shaping the future of India’s wild spaces.
This instalment of our In Conversation series follows Venetia into the heart of Central India’s tiger country, where ancient landscapes, rural communities and modern conservation science converge.
Interview with Venetia on Tiger Conservation in India
Where did you go, and what was the purpose of the journey?
We went to Madhya Pradesh in Central India to learn about their tiger conservation project, then up to Rajasthan and finally ending in Goa.
I heard about this amazing project where they relocated thousands of villagers from this area of Central India to create a wildlife corridor for the tigers. They wanted to create a safe space where there would be no human-wildlife conflict. The villagers would be in an area that is safe, and the tigers would then be able to increase their numbers. Over the past few decades, this project has tripled the number of tigers in India, which is amazing. So, I spent some time with the people who were the movers and shakers behind that project. We never do a hosted journey somewhere that we haven’t experienced ourselves first.
Fewer people go down to Madhya Pradesh, but the story there is so amazing. What’s so exciting about it is that it’s a backstage conservation journey. It has a charm to it because you can see they have so much passion for this park and the wildlife. Safaris are highly regulated, and they’re showing guests this unspoiled area, and you’re not staying in super luxurious lodges with beautiful shiny Jeeps, and everything is set up for you.
For example, we’d stop by the side of the road and have coffee, satsumas and fried pastries on the bonnet of the car as our picnic. And we had to be really patient because we’re spotting tigers in the middle of the jungle. The guides are so highly trained to spot these camouflaged animals through all the trees, know what tracks to follow and what to listen to. What they do is mind-blowing. One day, we saw two tigers, two sloth bears mating, monkeys, incredible birds, elephants, deer…and that was because the guide knew what he was doing. He picked up on every little movement of the trees, the different pitches of animal calls. It was a special opportunity to have an insight into a landscape that’s still very raw.


We also went to a beautiful leopard camp in Rajasthan, Sujan Jawai. I got to see my first leopard, which was an incredible experience. It’s all rock terrain and massive hills, and the leopards hide in the rocks and come out and bask in the sun. That was very special.
I could characterise the rest of my time in Rajasthan with the food. We ate with a local family, and I’ve never had so much fried food in my life! We also spend a lot of time bargaining in local markets. We went from December to January, so it was actually quite cold while we were there. Although it’s such a big country, we had a comfortable car and driver to take us to each destination. We saw India through these wild roads, and that is an experience in itself. You cannot sleep on those roads! But we got to see the countryside and rural communities and just relax and enjoy the scenery.


What were your first impressions?
I immediately noticed the warmth and vibrancy of the people. That was definitely the case all around. People were super hospitable and welcoming. We also had incredible cooks and food.
We all know India is a vibrant country, but there’s such diversity…Mumbai has amazing birds in the heart of the city, Central India has dense jungle, then there are plantations and amazing farmland, then the rocks and desert of the north – so there is an amazing contrast of landscapes and wildlife. It deserves multiple trips, because there is so much to experience.

What did your itinerary look like?
When you’re exploring such a vast country, your time is so precious to be able to experience it in the best way. Here is my recommendation for a killer first time in India:
- Reni Pani Lodge in Satpura National Park is the only lodge in Central India where you can ride horses. We rode through a canyon with an incredible diversity of wildlife, which was so magical. It was early in the morning, the sun was coming up, we were surrounded by wildflowers, and then we stopped and had brunch by the laker. That was a highlight.
- Jamtara Jungle Lodge in Pench National Park, which is owned by Amit Sankhala, the grandson of ‘The Tiger Man’ Kailash Sankhala, who launched the conservation project in tiger country. It was luxurious but with a personal feel, giving you that elevated safari experience.
- Kana Jungle Lodge is run by an amazing couple called Tarunn and Dimple. It’s a charming spot with that personal touch—you really get a sense of staying with true conservation pioneers. Tarunn is a lifelong naturalist guide and knows the area like the back of his hand, and his wife Dimple, who has been living here with him for close to 30 years, has an incredible knowledge of indigenous medicine. She home-brews delicious teas and remedies, such as ginger tea in the morning and chai in the afternoon, made over an open fire. It felt like we were staying in a home, which was a very cool experience.
- Sujan Jawai is a luxury tented camp that pioneered conservation tourism in the Jawai region. The reserve has brought leopard sightings from 20 in 2013 to over 1,000 in 2023. Guests are given field books to note down their sightings, and their ambition is to expand to more areas of land.
- Chanoud Garh in Rajasthan is a 300-year-old palace that was in disrepair until three siblings, Swati, Mahiraj and Jairaj, restored it. It has so many heirlooms, engravings and paintings, as well as horoscope-covered scrolls that are hundreds of years old. You get a glimpse into the life of a family that became rulers following the Merta War in 1745.



What did you learn about the conservation work or the people leading it?
Project Tiger is a remarkable success story. In the 1970s, visionary conservationist Kailash Sankhala recognised that India’s national animal, the tiger, was vanishing due to nationwide hunting. He became a campaigner and alerted the Indian government to this, eventually working with the Prime Minister, Indira Gandhi, to launch the Project Tiger strategy.
This was pioneering—they secured inviolate spaces for tigers to roam freely without threat. The Voluntary Village Relocation Programme was a critical part of this because many core areas of India’s tiger reserves were (and still are) home to human communities. Families were given the choice to relocate, either through direct financial packages or government-supported resettlement. This resulted in less human-wildlife conflict, and the communities were empowered with greater access to development. This is so much more than a simple story of conservation. It’s a complex, evolving conversation about community, wildlife and coexistence.
I had the privilege of seeing where the villages once were and where nature is now rebounding. Tigers can run free, and since the strategy was launched, their numbers in India have more than doubled. Despite huge adversity, this man committed his whole life to this project, and now his grandson owns Jamtara. Watch the documentary ‘Tigerland’ if you’re interested in learning more—it was featured at the Sundance Festival.
Or better yet, if you want to see it for yourself, we can connect you with the ecologists and biologists who created these national parks and tiger and elephant breeding programmes. We’re now in a great position to see these projects.se
Was there a moment that felt especially powerful, moving, or transformative for you or someone else?

We arrived at Pench National Park on a very misty New Year’s Day morning. The light was just coming up, we could barely see, and we were wrapped up with hot water bottles. As we drove into the park, we hadn’t seen another soul—it was complete silence. But then we heard this growl…I felt it through my whole body! And there was a male tiger right next to the Jeep. We could only just make him out because it was so foggy, but he stood up and started walking in front of us as if he was leading the way. He kept growling, and that noise is like nothing else. This was super rare to be in that close proximity, within five metres. Even the guide was surprised that this happened. This was within the first half hour of our first day!
Which place, project, or person here would you recommend to someone passionate about conservation?
Spending time at Kanha Jungle Lodge with Tarunn and his wife, Dimple, learn firsthand about the relocation project and recovery of tiger numbers. It’s amazing to visit the former settlements where nature is now rebounding. I’d also recommend spending time with the guide Adam, who is responsible for mapping out the reserve around Sujan Jawai. He spent half a year living in the area before there was any building or infrastructure tracking the leopards for hours and hours. There were only a handful in the first year, but he was able to learn their behaviour patterns and where they spent time. Then he co-created Sujan Jawai to give guests that feeling of being immersed in this landscape without conflicting with the wildlife.
Who do you think this kind of journey is best suited to, and why?
I would recommend this journey to intrepid, curious travellers who seek to engage with the natural world on a deeper level and see one of the greatest big cats in the world.
Closing Thoughts on Venetia’s Conservation Trip in India
Venetia’s journey offers a rare glimpse into a side of India that many travellers overlook: the conservation projects restoring balance between communities and the spectacular wildlife that coexists with them. Beyond the well-trodden Rajasthan loop, those passionate about conservation should look to the dense forests of Madhya Pradesh, Central India’s conservation heartland, where Project Tiger first took root. Here, dedicated ecologists and local communities have worked together to protect India’s national animal, shaping a story of resilience and renewal that continues today.

Given the country’s vastness and complexity, travelling with experts who can connect you to the right places, people and perspectives makes all the difference. Whether you’re a seasoned conservationist or want to see the country more meaningfully, a deeper India awaits.
Interested in Exploring India’s Wild Places?
Journeys With Purpose offers private, conservation-focused journeys to India, with tailor-made itineraries built around your passions. We also plan hosted journeys—subscribe to our newsletter for updates and inspiration for your next trip.

Feature Destination
Feature Destination: A Conservationist’s Reflection on Family, Biodiversity, and Restoration in Costa Rica
Costa Rica is one of the few countries I’ve returned to repeatedly over the last twenty or so years. Each visit has reinforced why this small Central American nation continues to hold a special place in my heart. As a conservationist, I’ve long admired its bold environmental policies, its ability to restore vast areas of degraded land, and the extraordinary biodiversity that thrives here. But what draws me back just as strongly is the feeling that Costa Rica gives you: the quiet assurance that another world is possible, one where people and nature can coexist with purpose and respect.
I had the chance to experience Costa Rica in a new way, traveling with three generations of my family. My husband, my sister and her family, and our aging parents all came together for what we knew would be a once-in-a-lifetime trip. My sister chose Costa Rica not only because of its beauty, but also because it felt manageable for a multigenerational vacation. It’s safe, accessible, and well set up for travelers of all ages. We also understood it would be expensive, but for the chance to travel together as a full family, the investment was worth it.
We started our journey in San José, where my husband and I stayed in a homestay with a Costa Rican grandmother. She greeted us with warmth, fed us incredible meals, and gave us our first taste, quite literally, of the hospitality this country is known for. From there, we headed to Quepos on the Pacific coast, where my sister had rented an Airbnb home. It was the perfect setup with a space for all of us to gather, cook, relax, and look out over a small deck that faced what appeared to be pure jungle. The view was mesmerizing. We later learned that only a few decades ago, the entire landscape had been logged and used for farmland or extraction. But thanks to Costa Rica’s climate and commitment to restoration, nature had returned with full force. You’d never know it had once been stripped bare.
Every morning, we gathered on that deck before sunrise with coffee in hand to watch the forest awaken. Birds darted through the trees: tanagers, flycatchers, motmots, flickering colors between the leaves. For a family of nature lovers, those quiet hours became some of the most meaningful and memorable moments of the entire trip.
Quepos gave us easy access to both the coast and the rainforest. We hiked in the nearby parks, explored waterfalls, we stumbled on eco-tours of chocolate-making, coffee farming, and sustainable agriculture. The excursions were varied and accessible. Canopy walks, guided nature trails, and small boat rides. Costa Rica’s dynamic geography from the mountains, coasts, volcanoes, and rainforests means you don’t have to travel far to experience completely different ecosystems.
Although my husband and I skipped diving this time to stay together as a family, we did take a longer boat ride to a more remote patch of primary forest. I believe we were on the edge of the Osa Peninsula or near Corcovado National Park, which is known as one of the most biologically intense places on Earth. The experience reminded me again how rare it is to be able to witness truly untouched rainforest.
Every meal we ate was exceptional. With such a strong agricultural foundation, the food was consistently fresh, flavorful, and locally grown. Pineapple, avocado, coffee, papaya, rice, and beans, all vibrant and prepared with pride. Costa Rica’s commitment to sustainable agriculture shows in the taste of what ends up on your plate.
Beyond the beauty and comfort, what continues to impress me most is Costa Rica’s national commitment to conservation. Despite being only about 51,000 square kilometers in size, Costa Rica is home to more than 500,000 species, about 5% of the world’s biodiversity, thanks to its location at the intersection of North and South America. The diversity includes iconic species like the resplendent quetzal (Pharomachrus mocinno), Baird’s tapir (Tapirus bairdii), jaguars (Panthera onca), and endangered sea turtles like the green sea turtle (Chelonia mydas), which nests on the Caribbean coast in places like Tortuguero National Park.
Costa Rica has not only preserved what it has, it has reversed damage from generations of less sustainable development. In the 1980s, deforestation was rampant, with forest cover reduced to about 21%. But thanks to a range of government policies, including the 1997 launch of the Payment for Environmental Services (PES) program, forest cover has increased to over 50% as of the 2010s, and as of 2022 forests covered approximately 60.1% of the country’s land area, according to the World Bank. The PES program rewards landowners for keeping forests intact, recognizing the economic value of ecosystem services such as carbon capture, water filtration, and biodiversity protection. Much of this work is administered through MINAE (the Ministry of Environment and Energy), and its subsidiary agencies like SINAC, FONAFIFO, and CONAGEBIO.
The country has also turned its attention toward marine conservation, with over 30% of its territorial waters now designated as marine protected areas (MPAs). These include coral reefs, mangroves, and marine corridors vital for species like sharks, whales, and sea turtles. Organizations like the MarViva Foundation have been instrumental in managing these MPAs, particularly around the Eastern Tropical Pacific.
Folks from Costa Rica, also called Ticos, have the reputation of being affectionately warm, proud, and deeply connected to the land. You quickly learn the phrase “Pura Vida” is more than a slogan. It’s a mindset, an expression of gratitude, resilience, and appreciation for life’s simple gifts. It’s said as a greeting, a farewell, a thank-you, and always with a smile.
Traveling here, you’ll find that Costa Rica is not only logistically easy, but emotionally and intellectually enriching. Whether you’re a solo traveler, a couple, or a multigenerational family like us, there’s something for everyone. The country is incredibly welcoming to people of all backgrounds, and it’s one of the safest places in Central America to visit.
If you’re planning a trip, the best advice is to decide what kind of experience you’re looking for. Do you want to immerse yourself in the jungle? Lounge on the beach? Explore volcanoes? Stay in a city and do day trips? Or do a bit of everything? There’s no single way to “do” Costa Rica. You can rent a car or rely on shuttle services. Stay in a city hotel, a remote eco-lodge, or a beachside Airbnb. It’s all possible.
Here are a few key regions to consider:
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Central Valley (San José and surroundings): Cultural sites, museums, and access to volcanoes and cloud forests.
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Pacific Coast (including Quepos and Manuel Antonio): National parks, beaches, and adventure tourism.
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Caribbean Coast (like Puerto Viejo and Tortuguero): Afro-Caribbean culture, nesting turtles, and rich biodiversity.
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Northern Plains (Arenal and La Fortuna): Hot springs, waterfalls, and volcanoes.
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Southern Zone (Osa Peninsula and Corcovado): Pristine rainforest, rare species, and incredible biodiversity.
VisitCostaRica.com is the official tourism website and a helpful starting point for researching regions, accommodations, and activities.
For us, this trip was a chance to reconnect, not just with each other, but with the natural world. Costa Rica has a way of doing that. When you’re surrounded by howler monkeys at dawn, or listening to rain fall onto leaves the size of couch cushions, or catching a glimpse of a toucan in flight, you remember what it feels like to be part of something ancient and alive.
And in a world where conservation so often feels like a losing battle, Costa Rica shows what can be achieved when a nation decides to prioritize nature, not just in words, but through action.
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