Feature Destination
Sustainable Sailboats Help Nuclear Victims Reclaim Voyaging Identity
For more than 2000 years, Pacific Islanders have upheld a rich history of culture and traditions deeply rooted in deep sea voyaging and navigation despite the thousands of blue water miles that divide these communities. With only the stars as their guide, Pacific voyagers seek to revive and maintain traditional ancestral practices passed down from revered navigators, celebrated for their bravery and perseverance on traditionally designed sailing canoes. Today, these islanders face a major threat to this cultural revival through a lack of the very thing that is keeping their culture alive: transportation.
Traveling between some of the most remote islands in the Pacific is infrequent and expensive for both tourists and locals alike. For the thousands of Micronesian islands stretched across thevast western Pacific Ocean, communities often wait months for diesel powered cargo ships to service their atolls and restock local shops with imported essentials. Meanwhile, chartering a simple “island-hopper” flight can cost more than the average outer islander’s yearly salary.
The philanthropic non-profit Okeanos Foundation for the Sea has created a solution to this problem, turning to the ancient knowledge of Pacific islanders who have been navigating the largest ocean continent for centuries.
MODERN DAY MOANA’S
Since 2011, Okeanos Foundation for the Sea has been dedicated to constructing traditionally inspired, fifty-foot sailing canoes that most outsiders would liken to the vessel seen in Disney’s animated film Moana . The Okeanos vaka motu , which translates to “boat for the islands,” is modeled after the ships of island ancestors who, like the Disney heroine, navigated the open-ocean using only the stars, wind, waves, and other elements of nature to settle on the islands strung across Pacific ocean.

The design of Okeanos’ Vaka Motus are a combination of traditional Pacific knowledge & modern technology to operate smoothly in the open ocean while meeting today’s safety standards. Photo Credit: Dan Lin
With a design inspired by Captain Cook’s 18th Century drawings of Polynesian sailing canoes, the vaka has twin hulls, traditional crab claw sails, and is held together by rope lashings. To meet the needs of the 21st Century, the vakas are outfitted with modern technology that includes a hybrid engine that runs on solar energy, biofuel, fiberglass hulls, and a water desalination kit. The vaka motu boasts of a maximum weight of nine tons, accommodating 12 people and three tons of cargo.

The wood-carved paddle, or hoi , is used by Okeanos crew as a rudder to steer the canoe. Picture Credit: Steve Holloway
Today, Okeanos Foundation for the Sea has constructed vaka motus for island nations across the Pacific, including Vanuatu, the Northern Marianas, Yap, Pohnpei and the Marshall Islands.
For the crew of Okeanos Marshall Islands , this innovative form of transportation that combines fossil fuel-free technology with traditional design creates an opportunity for islanders to regain their ancient sea roads and practice the traditional sailing skills of their ancestors. For her passengers, Okeanos Marshall Islands offers a chance to visit the remote islands of their countries that would be virtually impossible otherwise.
THE NUCLEAR LEGACY OF BIKINI ATOLL
Twelve crew members on a mission to service the most remote community of the Marshall Islands maneuver fifteen-foot swells aboard Okeanos Marshall Islands en route to Enewetak and Bikini atolls – the site of US nuclear testing that forcibly displaced its native populations for generations. While it has been over a decade since Enewetak’s population of 850 has been allowed back on their island, the radioactivity on Bikini will be too dangerous for its residents to return for thousands of years.

The traditional, catamaran design of the vaka motu allows voyagers to safely maneuver 15 foot swells and high winds. The rope lashings that keep the vessel together provides flexibility during open-ocean sails. Photo Credit: Steve Holloway

For crew like Tahitian Captain Tohitika “Alex” Sanchez, the visit to the survivors of RMI’s nuclear legacy was much more than a service trip. Tohitika’s mother & family had suffered the health impacts of nuclear testing in French Polynesia at the hands of the French government during the Cold War era. Photo Credit: Steve Holloway
Over the course of four days and 500 nautical miles, the crew endured gusts and waves that pounded at the vaka’s hulls and washed over her deck. Among the team was Bikini-native Edward Maddison, who for decades worked as a dive guide for tourists drawn to the atoll’s WWII shipwrecks and one of the world’s largest shark sanctuaries. While Edward has visited Bikini atoll with divers via chartered plane (which he admits can cost well into the thousands), this voyage marked his first time traveling to Bikini on a traditionally-based Pacific canoe.

Bikini-native Edward Maddison (left) navigates his home waters with Okeanos Marshall Islands captain Tohitika Alex Sanchez (right) at the hoi. Photo Credit: Steve Holloway
“My father and mother, [have] never seen the island. So it’s good for the people if they understand what Bikinians are doing. Maybe they can change some of the people’s lives. When we sail, we learn a lot of things. I hope that the government is going to develop this kind of boat[for] everybody.”
At one time, ancient searoads connected the Marshallese people across 2 millions square miles of open ocean to settle up to 1,000 islands. A thousand years before Columbus, Marshallese voyagers sailed ocean vessels they called walaps between the remote atolls using only the elements of nature – a feat that required incredible precision considering that most of their islands average only six feet above sea level and span less than half a mile wide. The people of Bikini and Enewetak atolls were the greatest boat builders in the Marshall Islands.

Operation Redwing, Shot Erie, detonated on May 30 1956 – one of 43 nuclear tests on Enewetak Atoll. Enewetak communities were forcibly displaced by the US government and did not return until the late 80’s and early 90’s. Photo: Stringer/Reuters
That all changed in 1947 when the people of Bikini and Enewetak were forcibly displaced by the US government who subjected the atolls to a series of nuclear explosions that obliterated plant and animal life and dispersed clouds of radioactive waste across the islands. There were 23 nuclear bombs detonated over Bikini atoll alone, completely vaporizing the islands of Bokonijien, Aerokojlol, and Namu.

Okeanos Marshall Islands is greeted by Enewetak school children, many of which had never set foot on a traditional sailing canoe. Photo Credit: Dena Seidel
“With the loss of land came the loss of culture”, says Enewetak councilman Paul David. “So much of our traditional knowledge used for survival was lost during the forced displacement from Enewetak in 1947,” says David. “Enewetak was once known for its canoe building. The walap was [the] key to life. It sustained people’s livelihoods that brought in goods and fish… Today, canoe building knowledge is gone – sadly a byproduct of the nuclear displacement.”

The Vaka Motu sails by Enewetak’s Runit Island, the site where US military attempted to “clean” an estimated 73,000 m3 of radioactive debris inside of an 18 inch-thick concrete dome. Known locally as “The Tomb,” the dome is a haunting reminder of the nuclear legacy that hangs over Runit – which is still uninhabitable due to high levels of radioactivity. Photo Credit: Dan Lin
After visiting the community on Enewetak, the Okeanos Marshall Islands crew sails through the Bravo Crater, a one mile-long cavity where the world’s most powerful nuclear weapon was detonated; 1,000 times stronger than the bomb dropped over Hiroshima. Edward explains to the crew that the gaping void of turquoise water was once a fertile island; home to bountiful breadfruit trees where Bikinians would build their massive seafaring canoes.

Above: Okeanos Marshall Islands is dwarfed inside of the Bravo Crater formed by the US Castle Bravo detonation in 1954. Photo Credit: Dan Lin
The only residents of Bikini island are the rotation of maintenance workers who are contracted to upkeep the island a few months at a time: An empty restaurant to accommodate the sparse dive tours that visit a few times a year. A row of vacated houses, including the home of Edward’s family, who in 1970 were permitted by the US government to repopulate the island, only to be displaced again after further testing revealed dangerous levels of radiation. It’s all a solemn reminder for Edward and fellow Bikinians for what could’ve been home.

Rows of vacant houses built during Bikini’s brief repopulation period give the island paradise an eerie ghost town quality. Photo Credit: Steve Holloway
Today, nearly 90% of Bikinians have never set foot on their atoll. Edward attributes fear and pain as reasons why his own children are reluctant to visit their family homeland, although he believes the lack of inter island transportation in the Marshall Islands and the hefty price tag it comes with are a real factor as well.
Still, the Okeanos Marshall Islands sail to Bikini leaves Edward hopeful for the future.

Bikini native Edward Maddison tours the rows of coconuts on Bikini Island, planted to test the radioactivity of vegetation on the land. Photo Credit: Steve Holloway
“My dream is for the Marshall Islands to have more [canoes] so that Bikinians can come and visit their islands,” says Edward on Bikini, admiring the vaka motu from the graveyard of his ancestors.

Okeanos Marshall Islands docks under a blanket of start on Bikini Island – one of the perks of visiting one of the most remote destination in the Pacific. Photo Credit: Steve Holloway
THE FUTURE OF TRADITIONAL VOYAGING
Okeanos Marshall Islands has chartered trips to Enewetak and Bikini atolls two more times since their initial trip to the nuclear legacy atolls in February 2018, bringing Marshallese crew and visitors to the former home of the greatest boatbuilders in the Pacific.
[xyz-ihs snippet=”GoogleAd-InArticle-2″]
[xyz-ihs snippet=”Ending-Donate-Logo”]
Feature Destination
Feature Destination: A Conservationist’s Reflection on Family, Biodiversity, and Restoration in Costa Rica
Costa Rica is one of the few countries I’ve returned to repeatedly over the last twenty or so years. Each visit has reinforced why this small Central American nation continues to hold a special place in my heart. As a conservationist, I’ve long admired its bold environmental policies, its ability to restore vast areas of degraded land, and the extraordinary biodiversity that thrives here. But what draws me back just as strongly is the feeling that Costa Rica gives you: the quiet assurance that another world is possible, one where people and nature can coexist with purpose and respect.
I had the chance to experience Costa Rica in a new way, traveling with three generations of my family. My husband, my sister and her family, and our aging parents all came together for what we knew would be a once-in-a-lifetime trip. My sister chose Costa Rica not only because of its beauty, but also because it felt manageable for a multigenerational vacation. It’s safe, accessible, and well set up for travelers of all ages. We also understood it would be expensive, but for the chance to travel together as a full family, the investment was worth it.
We started our journey in San José, where my husband and I stayed in a homestay with a Costa Rican grandmother. She greeted us with warmth, fed us incredible meals, and gave us our first taste, quite literally, of the hospitality this country is known for. From there, we headed to Quepos on the Pacific coast, where my sister had rented an Airbnb home. It was the perfect setup with a space for all of us to gather, cook, relax, and look out over a small deck that faced what appeared to be pure jungle. The view was mesmerizing. We later learned that only a few decades ago, the entire landscape had been logged and used for farmland or extraction. But thanks to Costa Rica’s climate and commitment to restoration, nature had returned with full force. You’d never know it had once been stripped bare.
Every morning, we gathered on that deck before sunrise with coffee in hand to watch the forest awaken. Birds darted through the trees: tanagers, flycatchers, motmots, flickering colors between the leaves. For a family of nature lovers, those quiet hours became some of the most meaningful and memorable moments of the entire trip.
Quepos gave us easy access to both the coast and the rainforest. We hiked in the nearby parks, explored waterfalls, we stumbled on eco-tours of chocolate-making, coffee farming, and sustainable agriculture. The excursions were varied and accessible. Canopy walks, guided nature trails, and small boat rides. Costa Rica’s dynamic geography from the mountains, coasts, volcanoes, and rainforests means you don’t have to travel far to experience completely different ecosystems.
Although my husband and I skipped diving this time to stay together as a family, we did take a longer boat ride to a more remote patch of primary forest. I believe we were on the edge of the Osa Peninsula or near Corcovado National Park, which is known as one of the most biologically intense places on Earth. The experience reminded me again how rare it is to be able to witness truly untouched rainforest.
Every meal we ate was exceptional. With such a strong agricultural foundation, the food was consistently fresh, flavorful, and locally grown. Pineapple, avocado, coffee, papaya, rice, and beans, all vibrant and prepared with pride. Costa Rica’s commitment to sustainable agriculture shows in the taste of what ends up on your plate.
Beyond the beauty and comfort, what continues to impress me most is Costa Rica’s national commitment to conservation. Despite being only about 51,000 square kilometers in size, Costa Rica is home to more than 500,000 species, about 5% of the world’s biodiversity, thanks to its location at the intersection of North and South America. The diversity includes iconic species like the resplendent quetzal (Pharomachrus mocinno), Baird’s tapir (Tapirus bairdii), jaguars (Panthera onca), and endangered sea turtles like the green sea turtle (Chelonia mydas), which nests on the Caribbean coast in places like Tortuguero National Park.
Costa Rica has not only preserved what it has, it has reversed damage from generations of less sustainable development. In the 1980s, deforestation was rampant, with forest cover reduced to about 21%. But thanks to a range of government policies, including the 1997 launch of the Payment for Environmental Services (PES) program, forest cover has increased to over 50% as of the 2010s, and as of 2022 forests covered approximately 60.1% of the country’s land area, according to the World Bank. The PES program rewards landowners for keeping forests intact, recognizing the economic value of ecosystem services such as carbon capture, water filtration, and biodiversity protection. Much of this work is administered through MINAE (the Ministry of Environment and Energy), and its subsidiary agencies like SINAC, FONAFIFO, and CONAGEBIO.
The country has also turned its attention toward marine conservation, with over 30% of its territorial waters now designated as marine protected areas (MPAs). These include coral reefs, mangroves, and marine corridors vital for species like sharks, whales, and sea turtles. Organizations like the MarViva Foundation have been instrumental in managing these MPAs, particularly around the Eastern Tropical Pacific.
Folks from Costa Rica, also called Ticos, have the reputation of being affectionately warm, proud, and deeply connected to the land. You quickly learn the phrase “Pura Vida” is more than a slogan. It’s a mindset, an expression of gratitude, resilience, and appreciation for life’s simple gifts. It’s said as a greeting, a farewell, a thank-you, and always with a smile.
Traveling here, you’ll find that Costa Rica is not only logistically easy, but emotionally and intellectually enriching. Whether you’re a solo traveler, a couple, or a multigenerational family like us, there’s something for everyone. The country is incredibly welcoming to people of all backgrounds, and it’s one of the safest places in Central America to visit.
If you’re planning a trip, the best advice is to decide what kind of experience you’re looking for. Do you want to immerse yourself in the jungle? Lounge on the beach? Explore volcanoes? Stay in a city and do day trips? Or do a bit of everything? There’s no single way to “do” Costa Rica. You can rent a car or rely on shuttle services. Stay in a city hotel, a remote eco-lodge, or a beachside Airbnb. It’s all possible.
Here are a few key regions to consider:
-
Central Valley (San José and surroundings): Cultural sites, museums, and access to volcanoes and cloud forests.
-
Pacific Coast (including Quepos and Manuel Antonio): National parks, beaches, and adventure tourism.
-
Caribbean Coast (like Puerto Viejo and Tortuguero): Afro-Caribbean culture, nesting turtles, and rich biodiversity.
-
Northern Plains (Arenal and La Fortuna): Hot springs, waterfalls, and volcanoes.
-
Southern Zone (Osa Peninsula and Corcovado): Pristine rainforest, rare species, and incredible biodiversity.
VisitCostaRica.com is the official tourism website and a helpful starting point for researching regions, accommodations, and activities.
For us, this trip was a chance to reconnect, not just with each other, but with the natural world. Costa Rica has a way of doing that. When you’re surrounded by howler monkeys at dawn, or listening to rain fall onto leaves the size of couch cushions, or catching a glimpse of a toucan in flight, you remember what it feels like to be part of something ancient and alive.
And in a world where conservation so often feels like a losing battle, Costa Rica shows what can be achieved when a nation decides to prioritize nature, not just in words, but through action.
Feature Destination
Feature Destination: The Most Awe-Inspiring National Parks in Latin America
Feature Destination
Feature Destination – Journeys With Purpose: Restoring Island-Ocean Ecosystems in Palau
Visiting Palau has been one of the most remarkable and affirming experiences of my life. Spending hours in the ocean observing turtles, sharks, rays and a host of other marine species, including cuttlefish changing colour and form to their immediate environment, has proven to be one of the greatest joys and wonders in the world.
I grew up watching and entranced by the TV series ‘The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau’. Such was the impression Cousteau’s series made on me, as a very young child my first pet was called ‘Calypso’, after his fabled research vessel. My experiences in Palau brought back these vivid memories directly. With a particular snorkelling experience on this journey, a fellow traveller commented that this must be “the day you fell in love with sharks” – and it truly was.

Throughout the course of the last 12+ months, Journeys With Purpose has worked alongside the world-class organisations of Island Conservation and Scripps Institution of Oceanography, in association with Re:wild, on a ‘Restoring Island-Ocean Ecosystems’ journey to champion and support the Island-Ocean Connection Challenge (IOCC).
The IOCC aims to restore at least 40 globally significant island-ocean ecosystems from ridge to reef by 2030 to benefit people, wildlife and our planet. This goal is delivering tangible action and successes, and signifying more widely the essential connection between island health and ocean health. Holistically restoring islands delivers outsized benefits for wildlife, oceans, people and climate impacts.
Key IOCC messages:
- Healthy oceans need healthy islands
- island and marine ecosystem elements cycle into one another, sharing nutrients vital to the plants and animals within them. Invasive species damage these fragile ecosystems and work to remove these in order to restore balance and endemic species such as the Megapode bird is vital.
- Everything is connected – Indigenous Peoples and local communities know this
- Indigenous Peoples and local communities have long understood and managed their natural resources in the context of island-to-sea connections. As Wayne Andrew, Micronesia Director of OneReef says “Community is not people alone. Community is a place, the reef. The respect of all that is so important”. This is rooted in their traditional knowledge and wisdom, including ancient oral stories such as the “Megapode Bird and Hawksbill Turtle”. It is essential to support local leadership and communities in the decisions they wish to make to protect these vital ecosystems.
- Collaboration is essential
- taking a collective approach to sustainable science and the importance of collaboration with local communities to achieve more holistic results.
- Emerging Science and Impact Monitoring
- global scalability of work informed by science. Emerging research shows people, wildlife and marine environments benefit when island-ocean connections are restored.
- Islands are on the frontline of environmental crises
- a staggering 41% of critically threatened species are found on islands
- 27% of all languages come from island communities
- surrounding coral reefs are home to 25% of all marine life

We travelled with leadership from Palau’s local communities, Island Conservation, Scripps Institution of Oceanography and supporters of these organisations. The collective experience of our time with these communities, and snorkelling and diving, was quite remarkable – a true spirit of togetherness and bonding developed that we will treasure for the rest of our lives. And importantly to take forward into action.
My key takeaways are thus:
- People make Places
- this is never more true than in Palau. There are approximately 20,000 local inhabitants on Palau’s islands, and they demonstrate an incredible bond, cohesiveness and strength together. This is brilliantly encapsulated by the local Hatohobei community, who rejected sizeable bribes to thwart a significant illegal fishing operation – “… we’re doing it for our people, for the future generations.”
- Impact at Scale
- the Palau National Marine Sanctuary (PNMS), effective 1 January 2020 with support from the Palauan government and several NGOs, is one of the largest marine protected areas (MPA) in the world. It was the first MPA of its kind, protecting 80% of a country’s national waters in a fully protected no-take zone.
- the PNMS protects a vast array of marine life and unique geological features within its over 475,000 km2, an area larger than Germany, Japan, Iraq, Sweden, etc. Eight hundred marine vertebrate species call the PNMS home, including nearly 30 different marine mammals and 60 shark and ray species, though these numbers are likely underestimated, as the biodiversity of the PNMS remains understudied.
- all achieved with the spirit of just 20,000 Palauans.
- Be Brave
- as above, the Palauans have been incredibly brave in their approach with their communities, natural environment and ambition. Very sadly, this is not the norm around the world, but is, however, a lesson for us all – trust our hearts and do the right thing to help deliver today a viable future. We must turn the currency of hope into the currency of action.

I have observed these three takeaways in the great conservation and rewilding endeavours around the world. It can be done. I urge us all, in the strongest possible manner, to support the work of the people of Palau, Island Conservation and Scripps Institution of Oceanography – brilliant people, doing brilliant work, in brilliant places. My eternal gratitude to our partners and supporters on this journey, and in particular to the exceptional dedication, hospitality and warmth of our local Palauan partners at Island Conservation Palau, Ebiil Society, OneReef, Koror State DCLE (Department of Conservation and Law Enforcement), Ngarchelong State Rangers and many others. Palau, officially the Republic of Palau, is an island nation in the Micronesia region of Oceania in the western Pacific, comprising an archipelago of over 350 islands. Little known to many of us, it is one of the most remarkable ecosystems and communities on Earth. Please connect here – connect@journeyswithpurpose.org – to understand how you can contribute, and visit Palau.
GET IN TOUCH TO START YOUR JOURNEY
A tribute to the people of Palau:- in memoriam to Prince LeeBoo of Palau, 1763 to 1784.
With the consent of his father King Ibedul of Koror, Prince LeeBoo departed Palau with Captain Henry Wilson and the crew of the Antelope to London, England on 12 November 1783. Whilst in London, Prince LeeBoo became Palau’s de facto ambassador of goodwill to England, and a scholar. However, LeeBoo’s plan of returning to Palau to spread knowledge and scientific discoveries to his people ended abruptly when the young prince succumbed to smallpox in the winter of 1784. The remains of Prince LeeBoo and his plans lay buried today in the courtyard of St. Mary’s church in Rotherhithe, London, England.
Despite the dilapidation of time, the spirit of Prince LeeBoo continues to live in the hearts of the people of Palau – their immense strength of community, positive impact and fortitude. His story, and purpose in life, remains widely told amongst the people of Palau today.
This article was retrived from Duncan’s Field Notes.
Journeys With Purpose offers immersive conservation and ethical travel experiences. Through private and hosted trips with pioneering conservationists, guests experience rewilding and restoring biodiversity in the wildest corners of the world. Our “Seven Worlds, One Planet” approach is a global curriculum focused on recovering and conserving vibrant landscapes, biodiversity, wildlife and livelihoods across all seven continents.
-
News5 days ago
Wheaton Women in Ocean Science Award Now Accepting Applications for 2025
-
Voices3 weeks ago
Mass Death of Magellanic Penguins Observed at Reserva Provincial Cabo Vírgenes
-
Book Suggestion2 weeks ago
Wet and Salty. A Lifelong Journey Seeking Coral Conservation and Resilience.
-
News2 weeks ago
New Coral Gardens and Hydrothermal Vents Found in the Icy Depths of the Remote South Sandwich Islands
-
Art & Culture2 weeks ago
Announcing the Winners of the 2025 Science Without Borders® Challenge
-
Feature Destination4 weeks ago
Feature Destination: The Most Awe-Inspiring National Parks in Latin America
-
Aquacultures & Fisheries4 weeks ago
Breathe. Wheel. Flukes Up. Dive. Swim On, Whales!
-
Ocean Literacy1 month ago
Microplastics: From rubbish bins to your next meal