Feature Destination
Sabah’s unique wildlife gets unique care
By Scuba Junkie Conservation Manager, Cat McCann
Sabah Wildlife Department and Honorary Wildlife Wardens
The state of Sabah, in Malaysian Borneo – known as ‘the land below the wind’ – is famed the world over for its spectacular wildlife, rare species and incredible biodiversity – both on land and in the water.
People flock to Sabah in the hope of seeing rare animals – including many species that are sadly on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List. Visitors to the rainforests may be lucky enough to see species of orang-utans (critically endangered), pygmy elephants (endangered), pangolins (critically endangered) and proboscis monkeys (endangered). In the seas surrounding Sabah, divers and snorkellers alike are lucky to see species of turtles such as green turtles (endangered) and hawksbill turtles (critically endangered), as well as endangered species of sharks such as scalloped hammerheads (endangered), as well as whale sharks (endangered).
Such incredibly rare wildlife deserves incredible care – and many of the above species fall under the remit of the Sabah Wildlife Department (SWD), who work tirelessly for the protection of Sabah’s iconic species.
Sabah Wildlife Department is a local wildlife authority under Sabah’s state Ministry for Tourism, Environment, Science and Technology – and enforces the “Wildlife Conservation Enactment 1997” for the proper regulation, use, protection, conservation and management of wildlife, caves and wildlife areas in Sabah.
The SWD works in many different ways to protect the wildlife – including through their dedicated veterinary group, the Wildlife Rescue Unit. However, recognizing that threats to wildlife and protected areas are constant, the Sabah State Government included the provision of appointing Honorary Wildlife Wardens under the Wildlife Conservation Enactment of 1997 – which allows the SWD to train and appoint Honorary Wildlife Wardens (HWWs).
Honorary Wildlife Wardens are members of the local community who have an interest in conservation and are gazetted by the SWD to help enforce protection of protected species in Sabah. In the fight against wildlife crime, HWWs work closely with the SWD by alerting the authorities of any suspicious activities and actions that may threaten the survival of Sabah’s protected wildlife, as well as voluntarily assisting projects that promote the conservation of these species.
HWW act as Wildlife Department’s ‘eyes and ears’ on the ground – helping to strengthen enforcement and prevent acts that would be detrimental to protected species. These posts are voluntary, and HWWs do what they do for their love of wildlife in Sabah.
Scuba Junkie and Honorary Wildlife Wardens
Scuba Junkie is an award-winning dive operator with bases in Sabah, Malaysian Borneo and in Komodo, Nusa Penida and Derawan in Indonesia. Scuba Junkie SEAS is the dedicated conservation arm of Scuba Junkie, with six main conservation programmes – turtle conservation; coral conservation; shark conservation; tackling marine debris; supporter engagement and eco-friendly resort.
There are four HWWs at Scuba Junkie SEAS’ base on Pulau Mabul, in the Semporna region – Dionne, Kai, Azlan and David. Turtles are protected by law in Sabah – no one is allowed to touch, interfere or harass turtles, or interrupt their nesting process under penalty of a fine and imprisonment.
As the Semporna area is a hotspot for turtles and the islands in the area known for nesting turtles, the HWWs main roles fall to not only enforcing the law and acting as SWD’s ‘eyes and ears’, but also assisting turtle conservation efforts through practical means such as helping to run the Mabul Turtle Hatchery and the Mabul Rehabilitation Unit.
Although the HWWs work full time for the dive operator Scuba Junkie, they give up their free time and nights to be on call for nesting turtles and turtle hatchlings, as well as helping to care for sick turtles. Scuba Junkie’s HWWs also assist the Conservation Managers in running programmes during the day – for example, schools outreach programmes – when their diving schedule allows.
Each of the HWWs loves their role, although they admit it is not an easy task. During turtle nesting season, an HWW can get a call to a nesting at any time – usually just after midnight, and not finishing for up to four hours afterwards.
When a nesting turtle is discovered, the community contacts the on duty HWW, who ensures the nesting process is well managed so as not to disturb or stress the female. Once the nesting process is finished and the female has returned to the ocean, the HWWs carefully excavate the nest and relocate them to the Mabul Turtle Hatchery. At the hatchery, they recreate as natural a nest as possible — at the same depth beneath the surface and sheltered from or exposed to direct sunlight. The whole process can often last over four hours…not an easy task.
The HWWs help to protect the nest while it incubates, and release the hatchlings when the nest hatches roughly two months later. As of mid-2018, more than 9,500 baby sea turtles (both green and hawksbill) have been successfully released on the beach in front of Scuba Junkie’s Mabul Beach Resort. It can be very busy during turtle nesting season, often with turtle nestings and hatchlings release on the same night.
Despite the challenges, all of the HWWs relish their role and the opportunities it affords them.
“It is probably the most difficult part for me – to be wakened up in the middle of the night to relocate turtle nest. But I know that it’s worth it in the end, and it is important for the numbers of turtles in this area” said Mohd Khairuddin Bin Riman (Kai), “I love releasing the newly hatched turtles. I can feel their movement when they are struggling to get out, to move out into the water. Seeing them work hard to get there, seeing them get into the water against all odds, makes me realize nothing is impossible. I know the hatchlings start a completely new journey when out in the water- but at least I have helped as many as possible get there.”
Kai continued “The role of HWW is very important for me, because I am able to protect the wildlife and environment – it is important to keep the ecological balance on this Earth, we are all part of the great circle of life. It is also important show and educate other people about the dependency of everybody and everything to each other.”
“I didn’t actually have the intention of becoming a HWW in the first place. I was just presented with this incredible opportunity by Scuba Junkie and the Sabah Wildlife Department to make things better for others and for the environment – and for personal growth – changing how I could make myself as a good person as possible for others.”
“I have so many good memories of my work as HWW – releasing hatchlings, releasing rehabilitated turtles back into the wild – but my one stand out memory is the day Scuba Junkie SEAS signed our MOU (Memorandum of Understanding) with Sabah Wildlife Department for the Mabul Turtle Hatchery. David McCann (the Conservation Manager for Scuba Junkie SEAS) and myself were so happy that day.”
The rehabilitation centre is also a keen focal point for the HWWs – caring for sick and injured turtles under the guidance of the Sabah Wildlife Department’s Wildlife Rescue Unit.
Dionne Sherry Guerzo agreed: “It was great to get official recognition for the Hatchery, but my happiest moment was when we released Donatello, one of the rehabilitated turtles. This was the first sick turtle I was involved with, and to see him grow in strength every day made me realize how important every individual is. The vets of the WRU work so hard to save every individual – it’s an emotional rollercoaster, willing the turtle to get better. Yet they do it every day for every animal in their care.”
“I was very grateful to be able to contribute and give back to those who brings me joy – I see healthy turtles underwater every day. People come from all over the world to see the turtles here. And I’m fortunate enough to be tasked with protecting them. I see it as my duty to protect those that I love or care for – and being an HWW is a perfect way for me to be able to give back to the environment.”
Dionne continued: “My worst memory is seeing some turtles that had been poached a few years ago – I felt so helpless, I was devastated. But my role is to help the SWD stop things like this happening – to protect the voiceless. It gives me a purpose and a focus. If we don’t protect our wildlife, who will – what will the future be like?”
Azlan Bin Mohd Yusof has a very definitive vision for the role – and what it means for not only him but for others who want to get involved in conservation. He explains, “Being an HWW lets us protect the wildlife, it gives us knowledge and power to effect change in our home areas. I wanted to become a HWW as I had a passion for conservation and I wanted to be a role model in my community, to show that it is possible to get involved in conservation if the passion and will is there. I wanted to raise awareness and make a difference – and the role of HWW lets me do all this and more.”
“I have learnt so much about so many other species of animal, and how important they to our ecosystem. I also learnt a lot about how populations of endangered species are declining. We need to do more to protect them – as we rely on these ecosystems too.”
“I remember the first time I saw a dead turtle – it had eaten plastic. I was heartbroken – to think that something so simply fixed had caused an animal’s death. When I see plastic on beaches and underwater and I know this could happen again – this drives me to help out and do beach and reef cleans as often as possible. The less plastic in the ocean, the better – and people come and help when they see the effort others are making to keep our oceans cleaner.”
Azlan continued: “There are tough moments – but equally there are some pretty fantastic moments. I remember my first nest relocation – the first time I held a turtle egg in my hand. So precious! And then – two months later, I was holding a hatchling from that same nest in my hand…I cannot describe the feeling, being part of something like this. I have been given a unique opportunity, by the Sabah Wildlife Department and I am honoured to be doing what I do.”
The fourth HWW, David McCann, is the Conservation Manager for Scuba Junkie SEAS. “The amazing thing about being an HWW is that it enables people from all walks of life in Sabah to become active in conservation efforts. You protect what you love. Which is why a huge part of SJ SEAS work is outreach programmes with our HWWs. We want to engage and tell people about the incredible biodiversity around them, to show them how amazing their local environment is. And hopefully through this, encourage more people to become more active in conservation – maybe following the lead of our HWWs.”
“Our HWWs are amazing role models, they work incredibly hard – with fantastic results. To think that they are only a small part of the HWW programme – with more HWWs in the forest, in the mountain areas, protecting animals all over Sabah. And then the HWW programme is only one part of the work that the Sabah Wildlife Department do. It shows how seriously and thoroughly they take their responsiblity in protecting the wildlife of Sabah. It’s a unique and fitting way of protecting the unique wildlife found in Sabah. We would like to thank the Sabah Wildlife Department for being able to be a small part of this.”
Scuba Junkie Conservation Manager, Cat McCann.
Scuba Junkie was set up by divers who had and still have, a love and dedication to the marine and terrestrial environment and through the years have tried to set up and run many projects and build an Eco-friendly resort containing green waste systems, solar energy, the use of only biodegradable cleaning products and plastics and sticking to proper and responsible dive practices etc, so that this beautiful area can be preserved for future generations and that the people of Sabah can thrive from the increased economy brought about by sensible, sustainable Eco-tourism.
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This piece was edited and posted onto SEVENSEAS Media by Giacomo Abrusci
Feature Destination
FEATURE DESTINATION – Journeys With Purpose: The Palau Pledge: How a Tiny Nation is Leading Global Marine Conservation

How could a Pacific island nation of just 20,000 residents create a conservation model many large countries still strive for?
Palau has married cultural pride with global leadership to create a living legacy of conservation and stewardship. Initiatives, including the Palau Pledge, have redefined what it means to travel responsibly and protect marine life; a journey here is a masterclass in purpose-driven tourism.

The Palau Pledge
The Palau Pledge is the world’s first immigration policy centred on environmental responsibility. It was launched on 7 December 2017 and requires every international visitor to sign a pledge upon arrival, stamped directly into their passport. This mandatory commitment, available in multiple languages, helps preserve Palau’s ecosystems and cultural traditions.
Uniquely, the pledge was co-created with local schoolchildren and is addressed to the children of Palau. It repositions tourism as a shared responsibility, symbolising a collective promise to future generations.

Unsurprisingly, this has had global resonance. The Palau Pledge has generated over 1.7 billion media impressions and is on track to reach more than two million signatures in its first decade since inception. It has inspired initiatives beyond its shores with other countries seeking to balance tourism and sustainability.

Palau’s Conservation Achievements
Shark Sanctuary
In a bold world-first move, Palau declared its entire exclusive economic zone a shark sanctuary in 2009. Over 135 shark and ray species have benefitted, as the sanctuary covers all waters up to 200 nautical miles from the coastline, encompassing hundreds of islands. This response to the global decline in shark populations led to a worldwide movement with 17 other countries following suit.
Palau National Marine Sanctuary
In 2015, Palau built on its conservation leadership by establishing the Palau National Marine Sanctuary, which protects 80% of its national waters. It banned all extractive activities, including fishing and mining, in an area about the size of California. It also made a groundbreaking ban on reef-toxic sunscreens to safeguard its coral ecosystems.

This move has protected over 1,300 fish and 700 coral species and safeguarded critical habitats for manta rays, whales and endangered sea turtles. Palau established locally-managed fisheries in the remaining 20% of the waters to also ensure food security for the nation.
The United Nations has praised Palau’s conservation model as it showcases how big of an impact a small island nation can make to protect global marine life.
Palau Wildlife
Marine Life
Some of the planet’s most diverse and vibrant marine life exists in Palau due to its location in the heart of the Coral Triangle. The country’s pioneering conservation efforts ensure over 130 species of sharks can thrive there, as well as manta rays, which glide through the nutrient-dense waters. Over 700 coral species live in the underwater worlds of coral reefs, and hawksbill and leatherback sea turtles have critical nesting grounds on its shores. One of the most unique species here is the stingless golden jellyfish, which occupies ‘Jellyfish Lake’ in the millions.

Land-Based Life
Palau’s land-based wildlife is just as vibrant as its marine wildlife due to millennia of isolation within rich island habitats. Dugongs are among the most rare and elusive residents; these shy, gentle creatures play a crucial ecological role in maintaining healthy seagrass beds. Palau is one of the few places in Micronesia where they graze.
Avian diversity is also exceptional in Palau. There are over 150 recorded bird species, including at least 13 endemics found nowhere else. Colorful residents bring the forests and wetlands to life, such as the Palau Fruit Dove with its soft green plumage and pinkish crown. The Palau Ground Dove, Palau Scops Owl and the Giant White-eye are further examples of species adapted to the country’s diverse habitats, which range from lush tropical forests to limestone islands.
Pioneering Responsible Tourism
The impact of the Palau Pledge extends beyond how visitors experience this island nation. It has transformed the landscape of responsible tourism and blazed a trail for other countries to follow.
At its core, the requirement for every international visitor to sign the pledge created a powerful ‘green nudge’. They must commit to protecting the environment, making stewardship a collective responsibility. 96% of visitors reported being more mindful of their environmental impact, and 65% actively used the pledge’s principles to educate others during their stay.
The Pledge has also catalysed several innovative policies and regulations, including the world’s first ban on reef-toxic sunscreens. Palau has expanded protected areas and introduced ‘Green Fees’, which channel money into local conservation projects, including marine monitoring, waste management and community-led environmental education. Tourism revenue, therefore, delivers tangible benefits to local people and nature.
“Palau is driving investment in large-scale protection to benefit people and the ocean. It is a beacon to the rest of the world.”
— Fiorenza Micheli, Stanford’s Centre for Ocean Solutions

A Model for the World
If we have learned one thing from Palau, it’s that size is not a barrier to global leadership in conservation. Palau has set a benchmark in environmental stewardship by creating the Palau Pledge and vast marine sanctuaries, alongside its unwavering commitment to fostering responsible tourism.
A visit to this Micronesian nation is an opportunity to become part of its conservation success, not just witness it. You can explore its protected seascapes through guided dives and snorkelling excursions and go birdwatching and hiking through its pristine forests. You can even witness discussions among Palau’s environmental leaders and contribute to citizen science projects and conservation monitoring.
This is a rare opportunity. Palau invites you to stand alongside them in fighting for the future of our oceans.
Ready to Take the Pledge?
Journeys With Purpose offers private, conservation-focused journeys to Palau, with tailor-made itineraries built around your passions. Get in touch with our expert travel specialists today on +44 20 8044 9538 or at connect@journeyswithpurpose.org to find out more.
Feature Destination
FEATURE DESTINATION – Tiger Conservation in India: In Conversation with JWP Managing Director Venetia

In Conversation with Venetia: A Journey Through India’s Tiger Conservation Heartland
Journeys with Purpose Managing Director Venetia recently returned from her first trip to India, where she experienced one of the world’s greatest wildlife recovery stories. Over four transformative weeks, she tracked leopards in Rajasthan, journeyed deep into Madhya Pradesh’s tiger reserves and learned from the conservationists and local communities shaping the future of India’s wild spaces.
This instalment of our In Conversation series follows Venetia into the heart of Central India’s tiger country, where ancient landscapes, rural communities and modern conservation science converge.
Interview with Venetia on Tiger Conservation in India
Where did you go, and what was the purpose of the journey?
We went to Madhya Pradesh in Central India to learn about their tiger conservation project, then up to Rajasthan and finally ending in Goa.
I heard about this amazing project where they relocated thousands of villagers from this area of Central India to create a wildlife corridor for the tigers. They wanted to create a safe space where there would be no human-wildlife conflict. The villagers would be in an area that is safe, and the tigers would then be able to increase their numbers. Over the past few decades, this project has tripled the number of tigers in India, which is amazing. So, I spent some time with the people who were the movers and shakers behind that project. We never do a hosted journey somewhere that we haven’t experienced ourselves first.
Fewer people go down to Madhya Pradesh, but the story there is so amazing. What’s so exciting about it is that it’s a backstage conservation journey. It has a charm to it because you can see they have so much passion for this park and the wildlife. Safaris are highly regulated, and they’re showing guests this unspoiled area, and you’re not staying in super luxurious lodges with beautiful shiny Jeeps, and everything is set up for you.
For example, we’d stop by the side of the road and have coffee, satsumas and fried pastries on the bonnet of the car as our picnic. And we had to be really patient because we’re spotting tigers in the middle of the jungle. The guides are so highly trained to spot these camouflaged animals through all the trees, know what tracks to follow and what to listen to. What they do is mind-blowing. One day, we saw two tigers, two sloth bears mating, monkeys, incredible birds, elephants, deer…and that was because the guide knew what he was doing. He picked up on every little movement of the trees, the different pitches of animal calls. It was a special opportunity to have an insight into a landscape that’s still very raw.


We also went to a beautiful leopard camp in Rajasthan, Sujan Jawai. I got to see my first leopard, which was an incredible experience. It’s all rock terrain and massive hills, and the leopards hide in the rocks and come out and bask in the sun. That was very special.
I could characterise the rest of my time in Rajasthan with the food. We ate with a local family, and I’ve never had so much fried food in my life! We also spend a lot of time bargaining in local markets. We went from December to January, so it was actually quite cold while we were there. Although it’s such a big country, we had a comfortable car and driver to take us to each destination. We saw India through these wild roads, and that is an experience in itself. You cannot sleep on those roads! But we got to see the countryside and rural communities and just relax and enjoy the scenery.


What were your first impressions?
I immediately noticed the warmth and vibrancy of the people. That was definitely the case all around. People were super hospitable and welcoming. We also had incredible cooks and food.
We all know India is a vibrant country, but there’s such diversity…Mumbai has amazing birds in the heart of the city, Central India has dense jungle, then there are plantations and amazing farmland, then the rocks and desert of the north – so there is an amazing contrast of landscapes and wildlife. It deserves multiple trips, because there is so much to experience.

What did your itinerary look like?
When you’re exploring such a vast country, your time is so precious to be able to experience it in the best way. Here is my recommendation for a killer first time in India:
- Reni Pani Lodge in Satpura National Park is the only lodge in Central India where you can ride horses. We rode through a canyon with an incredible diversity of wildlife, which was so magical. It was early in the morning, the sun was coming up, we were surrounded by wildflowers, and then we stopped and had brunch by the laker. That was a highlight.
- Jamtara Jungle Lodge in Pench National Park, which is owned by Amit Sankhala, the grandson of ‘The Tiger Man’ Kailash Sankhala, who launched the conservation project in tiger country. It was luxurious but with a personal feel, giving you that elevated safari experience.
- Kana Jungle Lodge is run by an amazing couple called Tarunn and Dimple. It’s a charming spot with that personal touch—you really get a sense of staying with true conservation pioneers. Tarunn is a lifelong naturalist guide and knows the area like the back of his hand, and his wife Dimple, who has been living here with him for close to 30 years, has an incredible knowledge of indigenous medicine. She home-brews delicious teas and remedies, such as ginger tea in the morning and chai in the afternoon, made over an open fire. It felt like we were staying in a home, which was a very cool experience.
- Sujan Jawai is a luxury tented camp that pioneered conservation tourism in the Jawai region. The reserve has brought leopard sightings from 20 in 2013 to over 1,000 in 2023. Guests are given field books to note down their sightings, and their ambition is to expand to more areas of land.
- Chanoud Garh in Rajasthan is a 300-year-old palace that was in disrepair until three siblings, Swati, Mahiraj and Jairaj, restored it. It has so many heirlooms, engravings and paintings, as well as horoscope-covered scrolls that are hundreds of years old. You get a glimpse into the life of a family that became rulers following the Merta War in 1745.



What did you learn about the conservation work or the people leading it?
Project Tiger is a remarkable success story. In the 1970s, visionary conservationist Kailash Sankhala recognised that India’s national animal, the tiger, was vanishing due to nationwide hunting. He became a campaigner and alerted the Indian government to this, eventually working with the Prime Minister, Indira Gandhi, to launch the Project Tiger strategy.
This was pioneering—they secured inviolate spaces for tigers to roam freely without threat. The Voluntary Village Relocation Programme was a critical part of this because many core areas of India’s tiger reserves were (and still are) home to human communities. Families were given the choice to relocate, either through direct financial packages or government-supported resettlement. This resulted in less human-wildlife conflict, and the communities were empowered with greater access to development. This is so much more than a simple story of conservation. It’s a complex, evolving conversation about community, wildlife and coexistence.
I had the privilege of seeing where the villages once were and where nature is now rebounding. Tigers can run free, and since the strategy was launched, their numbers in India have more than doubled. Despite huge adversity, this man committed his whole life to this project, and now his grandson owns Jamtara. Watch the documentary ‘Tigerland’ if you’re interested in learning more—it was featured at the Sundance Festival.
Or better yet, if you want to see it for yourself, we can connect you with the ecologists and biologists who created these national parks and tiger and elephant breeding programmes. We’re now in a great position to see these projects.se
Was there a moment that felt especially powerful, moving, or transformative for you or someone else?

We arrived at Pench National Park on a very misty New Year’s Day morning. The light was just coming up, we could barely see, and we were wrapped up with hot water bottles. As we drove into the park, we hadn’t seen another soul—it was complete silence. But then we heard this growl…I felt it through my whole body! And there was a male tiger right next to the Jeep. We could only just make him out because it was so foggy, but he stood up and started walking in front of us as if he was leading the way. He kept growling, and that noise is like nothing else. This was super rare to be in that close proximity, within five metres. Even the guide was surprised that this happened. This was within the first half hour of our first day!
Which place, project, or person here would you recommend to someone passionate about conservation?
Spending time at Kanha Jungle Lodge with Tarunn and his wife, Dimple, learn firsthand about the relocation project and recovery of tiger numbers. It’s amazing to visit the former settlements where nature is now rebounding. I’d also recommend spending time with the guide Adam, who is responsible for mapping out the reserve around Sujan Jawai. He spent half a year living in the area before there was any building or infrastructure tracking the leopards for hours and hours. There were only a handful in the first year, but he was able to learn their behaviour patterns and where they spent time. Then he co-created Sujan Jawai to give guests that feeling of being immersed in this landscape without conflicting with the wildlife.
Who do you think this kind of journey is best suited to, and why?
I would recommend this journey to intrepid, curious travellers who seek to engage with the natural world on a deeper level and see one of the greatest big cats in the world.
Closing Thoughts on Venetia’s Conservation Trip in India
Venetia’s journey offers a rare glimpse into a side of India that many travellers overlook: the conservation projects restoring balance between communities and the spectacular wildlife that coexists with them. Beyond the well-trodden Rajasthan loop, those passionate about conservation should look to the dense forests of Madhya Pradesh, Central India’s conservation heartland, where Project Tiger first took root. Here, dedicated ecologists and local communities have worked together to protect India’s national animal, shaping a story of resilience and renewal that continues today.

Given the country’s vastness and complexity, travelling with experts who can connect you to the right places, people and perspectives makes all the difference. Whether you’re a seasoned conservationist or want to see the country more meaningfully, a deeper India awaits.
Interested in Exploring India’s Wild Places?
Journeys With Purpose offers private, conservation-focused journeys to India, with tailor-made itineraries built around your passions. We also plan hosted journeys—subscribe to our newsletter for updates and inspiration for your next trip.

Feature Destination
Feature Destination: A Conservationist’s Reflection on Family, Biodiversity, and Restoration in Costa Rica
Costa Rica is one of the few countries I’ve returned to repeatedly over the last twenty or so years. Each visit has reinforced why this small Central American nation continues to hold a special place in my heart. As a conservationist, I’ve long admired its bold environmental policies, its ability to restore vast areas of degraded land, and the extraordinary biodiversity that thrives here. But what draws me back just as strongly is the feeling that Costa Rica gives you: the quiet assurance that another world is possible, one where people and nature can coexist with purpose and respect.
I had the chance to experience Costa Rica in a new way, traveling with three generations of my family. My husband, my sister and her family, and our aging parents all came together for what we knew would be a once-in-a-lifetime trip. My sister chose Costa Rica not only because of its beauty, but also because it felt manageable for a multigenerational vacation. It’s safe, accessible, and well set up for travelers of all ages. We also understood it would be expensive, but for the chance to travel together as a full family, the investment was worth it.
We started our journey in San José, where my husband and I stayed in a homestay with a Costa Rican grandmother. She greeted us with warmth, fed us incredible meals, and gave us our first taste, quite literally, of the hospitality this country is known for. From there, we headed to Quepos on the Pacific coast, where my sister had rented an Airbnb home. It was the perfect setup with a space for all of us to gather, cook, relax, and look out over a small deck that faced what appeared to be pure jungle. The view was mesmerizing. We later learned that only a few decades ago, the entire landscape had been logged and used for farmland or extraction. But thanks to Costa Rica’s climate and commitment to restoration, nature had returned with full force. You’d never know it had once been stripped bare.
Every morning, we gathered on that deck before sunrise with coffee in hand to watch the forest awaken. Birds darted through the trees: tanagers, flycatchers, motmots, flickering colors between the leaves. For a family of nature lovers, those quiet hours became some of the most meaningful and memorable moments of the entire trip.
Quepos gave us easy access to both the coast and the rainforest. We hiked in the nearby parks, explored waterfalls, we stumbled on eco-tours of chocolate-making, coffee farming, and sustainable agriculture. The excursions were varied and accessible. Canopy walks, guided nature trails, and small boat rides. Costa Rica’s dynamic geography from the mountains, coasts, volcanoes, and rainforests means you don’t have to travel far to experience completely different ecosystems.
Although my husband and I skipped diving this time to stay together as a family, we did take a longer boat ride to a more remote patch of primary forest. I believe we were on the edge of the Osa Peninsula or near Corcovado National Park, which is known as one of the most biologically intense places on Earth. The experience reminded me again how rare it is to be able to witness truly untouched rainforest.
Every meal we ate was exceptional. With such a strong agricultural foundation, the food was consistently fresh, flavorful, and locally grown. Pineapple, avocado, coffee, papaya, rice, and beans, all vibrant and prepared with pride. Costa Rica’s commitment to sustainable agriculture shows in the taste of what ends up on your plate.
Beyond the beauty and comfort, what continues to impress me most is Costa Rica’s national commitment to conservation. Despite being only about 51,000 square kilometers in size, Costa Rica is home to more than 500,000 species, about 5% of the world’s biodiversity, thanks to its location at the intersection of North and South America. The diversity includes iconic species like the resplendent quetzal (Pharomachrus mocinno), Baird’s tapir (Tapirus bairdii), jaguars (Panthera onca), and endangered sea turtles like the green sea turtle (Chelonia mydas), which nests on the Caribbean coast in places like Tortuguero National Park.
Costa Rica has not only preserved what it has, it has reversed damage from generations of less sustainable development. In the 1980s, deforestation was rampant, with forest cover reduced to about 21%. But thanks to a range of government policies, including the 1997 launch of the Payment for Environmental Services (PES) program, forest cover has increased to over 50% as of the 2010s, and as of 2022 forests covered approximately 60.1% of the country’s land area, according to the World Bank. The PES program rewards landowners for keeping forests intact, recognizing the economic value of ecosystem services such as carbon capture, water filtration, and biodiversity protection. Much of this work is administered through MINAE (the Ministry of Environment and Energy), and its subsidiary agencies like SINAC, FONAFIFO, and CONAGEBIO.
The country has also turned its attention toward marine conservation, with over 30% of its territorial waters now designated as marine protected areas (MPAs). These include coral reefs, mangroves, and marine corridors vital for species like sharks, whales, and sea turtles. Organizations like the MarViva Foundation have been instrumental in managing these MPAs, particularly around the Eastern Tropical Pacific.
Folks from Costa Rica, also called Ticos, have the reputation of being affectionately warm, proud, and deeply connected to the land. You quickly learn the phrase “Pura Vida” is more than a slogan. It’s a mindset, an expression of gratitude, resilience, and appreciation for life’s simple gifts. It’s said as a greeting, a farewell, a thank-you, and always with a smile.
Traveling here, you’ll find that Costa Rica is not only logistically easy, but emotionally and intellectually enriching. Whether you’re a solo traveler, a couple, or a multigenerational family like us, there’s something for everyone. The country is incredibly welcoming to people of all backgrounds, and it’s one of the safest places in Central America to visit.
If you’re planning a trip, the best advice is to decide what kind of experience you’re looking for. Do you want to immerse yourself in the jungle? Lounge on the beach? Explore volcanoes? Stay in a city and do day trips? Or do a bit of everything? There’s no single way to “do” Costa Rica. You can rent a car or rely on shuttle services. Stay in a city hotel, a remote eco-lodge, or a beachside Airbnb. It’s all possible.
Here are a few key regions to consider:
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Central Valley (San José and surroundings): Cultural sites, museums, and access to volcanoes and cloud forests.
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Pacific Coast (including Quepos and Manuel Antonio): National parks, beaches, and adventure tourism.
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Caribbean Coast (like Puerto Viejo and Tortuguero): Afro-Caribbean culture, nesting turtles, and rich biodiversity.
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Northern Plains (Arenal and La Fortuna): Hot springs, waterfalls, and volcanoes.
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Southern Zone (Osa Peninsula and Corcovado): Pristine rainforest, rare species, and incredible biodiversity.
VisitCostaRica.com is the official tourism website and a helpful starting point for researching regions, accommodations, and activities.
For us, this trip was a chance to reconnect, not just with each other, but with the natural world. Costa Rica has a way of doing that. When you’re surrounded by howler monkeys at dawn, or listening to rain fall onto leaves the size of couch cushions, or catching a glimpse of a toucan in flight, you remember what it feels like to be part of something ancient and alive.
And in a world where conservation so often feels like a losing battle, Costa Rica shows what can be achieved when a nation decides to prioritize nature, not just in words, but through action.
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