Feature Destination

Feature Destination: A Polynesian Dive Adventure with a Climate Warning

By David Helvarg

The photos in this article are credited to David Helvarg
The Photo Banner is credited to Daniel Bettech

Drifting 70 feet below the surface amidst shoaling reef fish with a pod of bottlenose dolphins above you and a school of grey sharks below is a dream come true for most divers. Now I’m living that dream but also fearing the possible loss of the wonders that surround me.

I’ve thought of visiting French Polynesia (FP) since I was 11, inspired more at that age by Marlon Brando’s ‘Mutiny on the Bounty than Paul Gauguin’s post-impressionist paintings. Since I got scuba certified in the mid-1980s it’s the diving that’s been the main attraction.

Getting the 9-hour flight from San Francisco to the island of Tahiti with three others in late 2021, required that we be vaccinated, take a pre-flight COVID test and another when landing in Papeete, the Capital of French Polynesia.

After a brief stay in the bustling city of 25,000, we’re soon diving into the more laid back neighbouring island of Moorea whose green volcanic peaks have us thinking of Jurassic Park. But here the ancient reptiles from the age of dinosaurs are green and hawksbill sea turtles. Over days of diving, we’ll see many turtles and meet with Dr. Cecile Gaspar, director of Te mana o te Moana, the local turtle rescue center. She shows us some of her patients large and small in pens whose waters connect to the sea. About 75 percent of those rescued have been harpooned, as there is still a local black market for turtle meat. Among the 300 released back into the wild many are identified and tracked by observers using a kind of turtle facial recognition algorithm.

Most of her crew are off on the atoll of Tetiaroa. Once owned by Marlon Brando it’s now a top-end resort and a major site for monitoring nests and hatchlings. Their 52 percent female birth rate is not bad given that like many reptiles birth sex is determined by temperature and in today’s rapidly warming world the ratio has gone badly askew. New turtles hatched on beaches along with parts of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef for example now turn out 99 percent female.

Waiting for a flight to Rangiroa, I go online and read of a new study that’s found half the world’s tropical coral reefs have died since I was born in the mid-20th century, 14 percent in the last decade. When I first snorkelled in the Florida Keys in the late 1960s the reef had close to 90 percent live coral cover. Today it’s around 3 percent.

An hour after takeoff in a twin-prop plane we’re crossing over a thin edge of breaking white surf, coral and sand, green Motus (islands) and the turquoise blue lagoon of Rangiroa, which, along with our next destination Fakarava are among the world’s largest atolls. They each have narrow passes to the sea in which billions of gallons of water rush in and out with the tides creating migratory channels for large and abundant marine wildlife. Rangiroa is about 50 miles long by 20 wide. Fakarava, more rectangular in shape, is 37 by 13. Rangiroa has 2,800 human residents, Fakarava around 1,000. Both low-lying atolls, along with 75 other atolls and “low islands” of the Tuamotus island group, are now threatened by rising sea levels.

Over the next nine days we’ll dive these dolphin and shark enhanced (not “infested”) waters doing back rolls off inflatables into the open passes, then heading along coral drop-offs, canyons and ledges to swim among an abundance of marine creatures.

Yet, on the three islands we dive, islands without the usual threats to coral health associated with polluted runoff, overfishing or major physical impacts I still note that a quarter to a third of the reef is either smothered in green leafy algae or has been reduced to rubble fields with occasional wedding cake white-bleached coral heads. My friends who dove here 25 years ago saw none of this.

It is the result of warming, acidifying seas, with warming water leading to global bleaching events that were first documented in 1997-98. Rangiroa was hit particularly hard in 1998. One study estimates some of its lost corals would take 100 years to recover if the ocean were not continuing to warm, which it is, due to climate change. Recurring bleaching makes it harder for corals to recover and more acidic seas make it more difficult for them and other shell-forming animals to capture calcium carbonate out of ocean water to build or rebuild their exoskeletons.

Because the Ocean absorbs 90 percent of human-generated heat and much of its carbon dioxide which is converted to carbonic acid, shifting seawater’s PH, our continued burning of fossil fuels is in effect denying future generations the reef’s productivity. This includes abundant fish, fish protein, the tourist dollars we spend as recreational divers (there are over 27 million certified divers worldwide), storm protection during intensifying hurricanes and typhoons, and just the sheer awe and wonder of a living reef.

During our final days, there are dolphins surfing and leaping in the waves. On our last dive, I try and remember everything I see over 55 minutes which is impossible; a giant Manta Ray, the barracudas and tuna swimming through the blue, the Picasso Triggerfish, parrotfish, stonefish, another Morey eel, a big Trident shell. We are watching a passing parade of hundreds of grey and blacktip sharks coming into the lagoon when a giant hammerhead, maybe 15-feet long with a huge dorsal fin scares the smaller 4-8-foot sharks onto the reef with us.

Still, I wonder how many such thrilling moments we’re leaving for future wonder seekers and explorers? Most marine science projections say that if we preserve 30 percent of the Ocean as fully protected reserves and rapidly transition off the burning of greenhouse gasses, we might still only see 10 percent of the world’s tropical coral reefs endure. I’ve witnessed corals bleached and dying in Florida, Hawaii, Fiji, Cuba and Australia and it enrages me. But anger alone is not the answer. They say you protect what you love. The dives on this trip have left me falling hard once again for the enchanting myriad magic of the reef.

I realize that the distance from these remote south Pacific atolls to the growing wildfires across my state or the centers of power in Washington, Bonn, New Delhi and Beijing is shrinking with every warming day. It’s not governments but citizens that may yet make the difference, including legions of scuba divers who can appreciate what’s at stake as we glide weightless and awe-struck through the coral heart of our blue planet.

David Helvarg is an author, Executive Director of Blue Frontier, an ocean conservation group and co-host of the Rising Tide Ocean Podcast.

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Feature Destination

Feature Destination: A Conservationist’s Reflection on Family, Biodiversity, and Restoration in Costa Rica

Costa Rica is one of the few countries I’ve returned to repeatedly over the last twenty or so years. Each visit has reinforced why this small Central American nation continues to hold a special place in my heart. As a conservationist, I’ve long admired its bold environmental policies, its ability to restore vast areas of degraded land, and the extraordinary biodiversity that thrives here. But what draws me back just as strongly is the feeling that Costa Rica gives you: the quiet assurance that another world is possible, one where people and nature can coexist with purpose and respect.

I had the chance to experience Costa Rica in a new way, traveling with three generations of my family. My husband, my sister and her family, and our aging parents all came together for what we knew would be a once-in-a-lifetime trip. My sister chose Costa Rica not only because of its beauty, but also because it felt manageable for a multigenerational vacation. It’s safe, accessible, and well set up for travelers of all ages. We also understood it would be expensive, but for the chance to travel together as a full family, the investment was worth it.

coconut tree on beach shore during daytime

We started our journey in San José, where my husband and I stayed in a homestay with a Costa Rican grandmother. She greeted us with warmth, fed us incredible meals, and gave us our first taste, quite literally, of the hospitality this country is known for. From there, we headed to Quepos on the Pacific coast, where my sister had rented an Airbnb home. It was the perfect setup with a space for all of us to gather, cook, relax, and look out over a small deck that faced what appeared to be pure jungle. The view was mesmerizing. We later learned that only a few decades ago, the entire landscape had been logged and used for farmland or extraction. But thanks to Costa Rica’s climate and commitment to restoration, nature had returned with full force. You’d never know it had once been stripped bare.

Every morning, we gathered on that deck before sunrise with coffee in hand to watch the forest awaken. Birds darted through the trees: tanagers, flycatchers, motmots, flickering colors between the leaves. For a family of nature lovers, those quiet hours became some of the most meaningful and memorable moments of the entire trip.

Quepos gave us easy access to both the coast and the rainforest. We hiked in the nearby parks, explored waterfalls, we stumbled on eco-tours of chocolate-making, coffee farming, and sustainable agriculture. The excursions were varied and accessible. Canopy walks, guided nature trails, and small boat rides. Costa Rica’s dynamic geography from the mountains, coasts, volcanoes, and rainforests means you don’t have to travel far to experience completely different ecosystems.

Although my husband and I skipped diving this time to stay together as a family, we did take a longer boat ride to a more remote patch of primary forest. I believe we were on the edge of the Osa Peninsula or near Corcovado National Park, which is known as one of the most biologically intense places on Earth. The experience reminded me again how rare it is to be able to witness truly untouched rainforest.

Every meal we ate was exceptional. With such a strong agricultural foundation, the food was consistently fresh, flavorful, and locally grown. Pineapple, avocado, coffee, papaya, rice, and beans, all vibrant and prepared with pride. Costa Rica’s commitment to sustainable agriculture shows in the taste of what ends up on your plate.

Beyond the beauty and comfort, what continues to impress me most is Costa Rica’s national commitment to conservation. Despite being only about 51,000 square kilometers in size, Costa Rica is home to more than 500,000 species, about 5% of the world’s biodiversity, thanks to its location at the intersection of North and South America. The diversity includes iconic species like the resplendent quetzal (Pharomachrus mocinno), Baird’s tapir (Tapirus bairdii), jaguars (Panthera onca), and endangered sea turtles like the green sea turtle (Chelonia mydas), which nests on the Caribbean coast in places like Tortuguero National Park.

gray wooden bridge in forest during daytime

Costa Rica has not only preserved what it has, it has reversed damage from generations of less sustainable development. In the 1980s, deforestation was rampant, with forest cover reduced to about 21%. But thanks to a range of government policies, including the 1997 launch of the Payment for Environmental Services (PES) program, forest cover has increased to over 50% as of the 2010s, and as of 2022 forests covered approximately 60.1% of the country’s land area, according to the World Bank. The PES program rewards landowners for keeping forests intact, recognizing the economic value of ecosystem services such as carbon capture, water filtration, and biodiversity protection. Much of this work is administered through MINAE (the Ministry of Environment and Energy), and its subsidiary agencies like SINAC, FONAFIFO, and CONAGEBIO.

gray and brown turtle on gray sand during daytime

The country has also turned its attention toward marine conservation, with over 30% of its territorial waters now designated as marine protected areas (MPAs). These include coral reefs, mangroves, and marine corridors vital for species like sharks, whales, and sea turtles. Organizations like the MarViva Foundation have been instrumental in managing these MPAs, particularly around the Eastern Tropical Pacific.

Folks from Costa Rica, also called Ticos, have the reputation of being affectionately warm, proud, and deeply connected to the land. You quickly learn the phrase “Pura Vida” is more than a slogan. It’s a mindset, an expression of gratitude, resilience, and appreciation for life’s simple gifts. It’s said as a greeting, a farewell, a thank-you, and always with a smile.

Traveling here, you’ll find that Costa Rica is not only logistically easy, but emotionally and intellectually enriching. Whether you’re a solo traveler, a couple, or a multigenerational family like us, there’s something for everyone. The country is incredibly welcoming to people of all backgrounds, and it’s one of the safest places in Central America to visit.

If you’re planning a trip, the best advice is to decide what kind of experience you’re looking for. Do you want to immerse yourself in the jungle? Lounge on the beach? Explore volcanoes? Stay in a city and do day trips? Or do a bit of everything? There’s no single way to “do” Costa Rica. You can rent a car or rely on shuttle services. Stay in a city hotel, a remote eco-lodge, or a beachside Airbnb. It’s all possible.

Here are a few key regions to consider:

Central Valley (San José and surroundings): Cultural sites, museums, and access to volcanoes and cloud forests.
Pacific Coast (including Quepos and Manuel Antonio): National parks, beaches, and adventure tourism.
Caribbean Coast (like Puerto Viejo and Tortuguero): Afro-Caribbean culture, nesting turtles, and rich biodiversity.
Northern Plains (Arenal and La Fortuna): Hot springs, waterfalls, and volcanoes.
Southern Zone (Osa Peninsula and Corcovado): Pristine rainforest, rare species, and incredible biodiversity.

VisitCostaRica.com is the official tourism website and a helpful starting point for researching regions, accommodations, and activities.

For us, this trip was a chance to reconnect, not just with each other, but with the natural world. Costa Rica has a way of doing that. When you’re surrounded by howler monkeys at dawn, or listening to rain fall onto leaves the size of couch cushions, or catching a glimpse of a toucan in flight, you remember what it feels like to be part of something ancient and alive.

And in a world where conservation so often feels like a losing battle, Costa Rica shows what can be achieved when a nation decides to prioritize nature, not just in words, but through action.

Feature Destination

Feature Destination: The Most Awe-Inspiring National Parks in Latin America

The national parks in Latin America are breathtaking, with diverse landscapes ranging from towering glaciers in Chile to lush tropical rainforests in Costa Rica and jaguar conservation areas in Belize. These areas of immense natural beauty enable you to immerse yourself into the rich biodiversity and culture this continent has to offer, where you’ll explore the unique ecosystems and learn about the traditions of the indigenous people.

Here is our list for the best national parks in Latin America.

Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

Located in the southern reaches of Chile, the Andes are at their most spectacular here, with jagged peaks rising from bright blue fjords and turquoise lakes (photo above)

A true Patagonia adventure awaits in Torres del Paine National Park. The hiking here is legendary, with routes varying from a few hours to a few days’ expedition across the 1,814 square kilometre wilderness. The landscapes are rewarding, with colossal glaciers, snow capped summits and roaring waterfalls juxtaposing the vast open plains.

Go kayaking on glacial lakes that sparkle or ride horses through forests and across pampas plains with the local gauchos, learning about their traditional ways of life in this unforgettable setting.

Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina

Los Glaciares National Park can be found at the heart of Argentine Patagonia. Spanning over 7,000 square kilometres, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is renowned for the sheer scale of its stunning glacial landscapes and rugged mountains.

The Perito Moreno Glacier dominates the landscape, where deep blues merge with ethereal whites, creating a symphony of hues that sparkle in the sunlight. Watch glacial calving from the boardwalk or boat as chunks of ice break off and thunder into the milky blue waters of Lake Argentino below. If you are feeling adventurous, you can even scale the ice field with crampons, appreciating the ice caves and pools along the way.

Admire with awe as you explore the landscape on foot, or even horseback, on the lookout for guanacos, Andean condors, foxes, and bird species. If you tackle the 22 km trek to Laguna de los Tres, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of Mount Fitz Roy.

Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

Incredible biodiversity and tropical rainforests make up this natural park, situated on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica, which is best known for its entangled ecosystem of winding rivers, canals, lagoons, and beaches.

Navigate Tortuguero by boat or canoe using the extensive network of waterways, where you’ll pass through dense foliage, alive with movement and sound. Monkeys swing overhead, their playful chatter blending with the calls of exotic birds like toucans and parrots. Observe and immerse yourself into the rich tropical haven around you, where three-toed sloths hang lazily from branches and river otters frolic in the water alongside you.

During nesting season, in July and August, hundreds of green sea and hawksbill turtles come ashore to lay eggs in the sand. Watch this process in action and learn more about the conservation efforts being made to protect these magnificent creatures.

Cahuita National Park, Costa Rica

On the south side of the Caribbean, this beautiful and ecologically rich national park in Latin America can only be described as paradise.

Follow the well maintained hiking trails through the rainforest on the lookout for monkeys and sloths with scenic coastal views before reaching the soft white sands, fringed with coconut palms. Off-shore, the vibrant coral reefs are teeming with bright tropical fish, rays, nurse sharks, and various types of sea turtles. The warm, clear waters are perfect for experiencing these creatures in their natural habitats through diving or snorkelling.

The culture and traditions in this region are rich, rooted in medicinal plants. Learn more about the indigenous Bribri culture and traditions through a hands-on course in traditional cacao cultivation, following the process from picking the pod to sampling the delicious chocolate it creates.

Iberá National Park, Argentina

Explore the world’s second largest wetland in northeast Argentina, where the tranquil waterways and scenic trails offer a peaceful escape into nature.

Trek among the rich tapestry of lakes, marshes, plains, and forests which are home to capybaras, marsh deer, and howler monkeys, as well as jaguars, tapirs, and giant anteaters which have been gradually reintroduced as part of a rewilding program.

The rewilding of Iberá National Park is a pioneering conservation effort, aiming to restore the native ecosystem by reintroducing keystone species that had vanished from the region. These efforts not only revive biodiversity but also empower local communities through ecotourism and sustainable development.

Canoe or boat down the winding rivers and try spot the 360 different bird species hidden in the foliage of the park. Some of the wildlife is better spotted in the dark, so night game drives are also an option here.

Galapagos National Park, Ecuador

The world famous UNESCO World Heritage Site, located 1,000 kilometres off the coast of Ecuador, is home to many endemic species totally unique to the archipelago, including the Galapagos giant tortoise, marine iguana, and several species of Darwin’s finches.

Explore the volcanic islands, with rugged cliffs and lava fields, where the wild beaches stretch for miles. The clear, blue waters are alive with marine life. Encounter colourful tropical fish, sea turtles, marine iguanas, rays, and even hammerhead sharks while snorkelling or diving amongst the coral reefs and underwater caves.

Weave in between the archipelago’s islets onboard your own sailboat, where you can enjoy Relais & Chateaux dining and relaxing on the sundeck, while watching sea lions and fur seals play in the turquoise ocean around you. As the skies begin to darken, gaze upwards for incredible views of the planets and constellations.

Each of the national parks in Latin America tell powerful stories of conservation, culture, and connection. Whether witnessing glacial calving in Patagonia, tracing the paths of rewilded jaguars in Iberá, or learning from indigenous communities in Costa Rica, these are experiences that stay with you.

At Journeys With Purpose, we design transformational travel experiences that deepen your understanding of the world and contribute to its protection. Every journey supports local conservation and community initiatives — with opportunities to engage first-hand along the way. Get in touch to find out more.

Contribute to Positive Impact on a Hosted Journey. Connect with Impact Partners around the world during a Private Experience. Journeys With Purpose offers immersive conservation and ethical travel experiences. Through private and hosted trips with pioneering conservationists, guests experience rewilding and restoring biodiversity in the wildest corners of the world. Our “Seven Worlds, One Planet” approach is a global curriculum focused on recovering and conserving vibrant landscapes, biodiversity, wildlife and livelihoods across all seven continents.

Feature Destination

Feature Destination – Journeys With Purpose: Restoring Island-Ocean Ecosystems in Palau

Visiting Palau has been one of the most remarkable and affirming experiences of my life. Spending hours in the ocean observing turtles, sharks, rays and a host of other marine species, including cuttlefish changing colour and form to their immediate environment, has proven to be one of the greatest joys and wonders in the world.

I grew up watching and entranced by the TV series ‘The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau’. Such was the impression Cousteau’s series made on me, as a very young child my first pet was called ‘Calypso’, after his fabled research vessel. My experiences in Palau brought back these vivid memories directly. With a particular snorkelling experience on this journey, a fellow traveller commented that this must be “the day you fell in love with sharks” – and it truly was.

Throughout the course of the last 12+ months, Journeys With Purpose has worked alongside the world-class organisations of Island Conservation and Scripps Institution of Oceanography, in association with Re:wild, on a ‘Restoring Island-Ocean Ecosystems’ journey to champion and support the Island-Ocean Connection Challenge (IOCC).

The IOCC aims to restore at least 40 globally significant island-ocean ecosystems from ridge to reef by 2030 to benefit people, wildlife and our planet. This goal is delivering tangible action and successes, and signifying more widely the essential connection between island health and ocean health. Holistically restoring islands delivers outsized benefits for wildlife, oceans, people and climate impacts.

Key IOCC messages:

Healthy oceans need healthy islands
- island and marine ecosystem elements cycle into one another, sharing nutrients vital to the plants and animals within them. Invasive species damage these fragile ecosystems and work to remove these in order to restore balance and endemic species such as the Megapode bird is vital.
Everything is connected – Indigenous Peoples and local communities know this
- Indigenous Peoples and local communities have long understood and managed their natural resources in the context of island-to-sea connections. As Wayne Andrew, Micronesia Director of OneReef says “Community is not people alone. Community is a place, the reef. The respect of all that is so important”. This is rooted in their traditional knowledge and wisdom, including ancient oral stories such as the “Megapode Bird and Hawksbill Turtle”. It is essential to support local leadership and communities in the decisions they wish to make to protect these vital ecosystems.
Collaboration is essential
- taking a collective approach to sustainable science and the importance of collaboration with local communities to achieve more holistic results.
Emerging Science and Impact Monitoring
- global scalability of work informed by science. Emerging research shows people, wildlife and marine environments benefit when island-ocean connections are restored.
Islands are on the frontline of environmental crises
- a staggering 41% of critically threatened species are found on islands
- 27% of all languages come from island communities
- surrounding coral reefs are home to 25% of all marine life

LEARN MORE ABOUT THE IOCC

We travelled with leadership from Palau’s local communities, Island Conservation, Scripps Institution of Oceanography and supporters of these organisations. The collective experience of our time with these communities, and snorkelling and diving, was quite remarkable – a true spirit of togetherness and bonding developed that we will treasure for the rest of our lives. And importantly to take forward into action.

My key takeaways are thus:

People make Places
- this is never more true than in Palau. There are approximately 20,000 local inhabitants on Palau’s islands, and they demonstrate an incredible bond, cohesiveness and strength together. This is brilliantly encapsulated by the local Hatohobei community, who rejected sizeable bribes to thwart a significant illegal fishing operation – “… we’re doing it for our people, for the future generations.”
Impact at Scale
- the Palau National Marine Sanctuary (PNMS), effective 1 January 2020 with support from the Palauan government and several NGOs, is one of the largest marine protected areas (MPA) in the world. It was the first MPA of its kind, protecting 80% of a country’s national waters in a fully protected no-take zone.
- the PNMS protects a vast array of marine life and unique geological features within its over 475,000 km2, an area larger than Germany, Japan, Iraq, Sweden, etc. Eight hundred marine vertebrate species call the PNMS home, including nearly 30 different marine mammals and 60 shark and ray species, though these numbers are likely underestimated, as the biodiversity of the PNMS remains understudied.
- all achieved with the spirit of just 20,000 Palauans.
Be Brave
- as above, the Palauans have been incredibly brave in their approach with their communities, natural environment and ambition. Very sadly, this is not the norm around the world, but is, however, a lesson for us all – trust our hearts and do the right thing to help deliver today a viable future. We must turn the currency of hope into the currency of action.

I have observed these three takeaways in the great conservation and rewilding endeavours around the world. It can be done. I urge us all, in the strongest possible manner, to support the work of the people of Palau, Island Conservation and Scripps Institution of Oceanography – brilliant people, doing brilliant work, in brilliant places. My eternal gratitude to our partners and supporters on this journey, and in particular to the exceptional dedication, hospitality and warmth of our local Palauan partners at Island Conservation Palau, Ebiil Society, OneReef, Koror State DCLE (Department of Conservation and Law Enforcement), Ngarchelong State Rangers and many others. Palau, officially the Republic of Palau, is an island nation in the Micronesia region of Oceania in the western Pacific, comprising an archipelago of over 350 islands. Little known to many of us, it is one of the most remarkable ecosystems and communities on Earth. Please connect here – connect@journeyswithpurpose.org – to understand how you can contribute, and visit Palau.

GET IN TOUCH TO START YOUR JOURNEY

A tribute to the people of Palau:- in memoriam to Prince LeeBoo of Palau, 1763 to 1784.

With the consent of his father King Ibedul of Koror, Prince LeeBoo departed Palau with Captain Henry Wilson and the crew of the Antelope to London, England on 12 November 1783. Whilst in London, Prince LeeBoo became Palau’s de facto ambassador of goodwill to England, and a scholar. However, LeeBoo’s plan of returning to Palau to spread knowledge and scientific discoveries to his people ended abruptly when the young prince succumbed to smallpox in the winter of 1784. The remains of Prince LeeBoo and his plans lay buried today in the courtyard of St. Mary’s church in Rotherhithe, London, England.

Despite the dilapidation of time, the spirit of Prince LeeBoo continues to live in the hearts of the people of Palau – their immense strength of community, positive impact and fortitude. His story, and purpose in life, remains widely told amongst the people of Palau today.

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This article was retrived from Duncan’s Field Notes.

Journeys With Purpose offers immersive conservation and ethical travel experiences. Through private and hosted trips with pioneering conservationists, guests experience rewilding and restoring biodiversity in the wildest corners of the world. Our “Seven Worlds, One Planet” approach is a global curriculum focused on recovering and conserving vibrant landscapes, biodiversity, wildlife and livelihoods across all seven continents.