Feature Destination
The Long Tail of the People
Dennis Bryan Baitit
Island paradise- that feeling when you spent the whole year dreaming of a place that you keep on staring at your desktop for the whole year. The day dream is over….
In Malapascua, you see the line of the ocean meeting the horizon. The heat of the sun burning your feet while walking in a white sand beach. Or a burst of colours that defines the serenity of the view when the sun sets. Or feel the warmth of the locals while greeting you as you pass by. Witness wild animals in their magnificent display and be amazed by the beautiful life the underwater world has to offer.
Malapascua Island is a small island in the northernmost tip of Cebu, the Philippines. The island is so small that there are no cars, and people travel only by foot, bicycle or a motorbike. It is about 2.5 by 1 kilometres and dotted with gleaming white sand beaches, crystal clear waters and abundant marine biodiversity. Historically, the island’s main source of income is fishing, but due to the discovery of its biggest asset about a decade ago, the island’s economy has dramatically shifted. Resorts, restaurants and dive resorts have mushroomed, and currently the island’s main income comes from tourism. So don’t be fooled by its size – this tiny island is home to one of the country’s biggest treasures: The Thresher Shark (Alopias pelagicus).
The Malapascuan community is faced with many challenges. Abject poverty is commonplace on the island and life expectancy is low. Over the years, fisheries have declined due to illegal fishing practices and commercial fishing has significantly depleted the area’s food resources. Unsustainable fishing practices have become a constant threat to the local tourism economy and food security of the island. This has been a perennial problem, not only in this small community, but also all over the country.
Aside from these human inflicted problems, Malapascua is also faced with natural disasters, since it lies at the tip of Camotes Sea where the three bodies of water (Visayan Sea, Camotes Sea and Tañon Straight) converge, which are almost always in the path of typhoons. The biggest devastation came on November 8, 2013, when typhoon Haiyan hit the southern part of the Philippines. Malapascua looked like a war zone afterwards, where houses turn to rubble and trees are brown. The typhoon made the second landfall on the island, and shanties made of light materials where easily blown. Even the fancy resorts were badly damaged, including boats and other valuable properties. There was debris everywhere, and the people’s cheery disposition was replaced by gloom and uncertainty.

Steve de Neef
The Thresher Sharks
Thresher sharks reach to about 365 centimeters in length. Its long, trademark tail can account for half of its body size. When they swim, their tails makes them seem so graceful and harmless, but their tails are actually used to whip and stun their prey, such as squid and sardines.
For the people of Malapascua, the thresher shark is not just an ordinary creature but a treasure. The entire island’s economy depends on the presence of the thresher sharks. Life on the island has changed from a simple fishing village to a world-renowned diving destination. Divers and tourists travel thousands of miles just for a chance to see the threshers. Because of the influx of tourist on the island, the income of the community has increased exponentially. Jobs have shifted from fishing to tourism which resulted in an overall increase in the quality of life. The scale of the scuba diving tourism supported by the island is certain to grow in the years to come.
The Thresher Sharks have been a constant blessing to the islanders. In fact, it’s the thresher sharks that came to the rescue right after the typhoon. Divers and tourists from all over the world, who have great memories of the island and its people, have pooled in all the resources they have to give back to the island, the sharks and its people. The local community were able to rebuild faster than any other town affected by the typhoon. So much help came in that rehabilitation efforts had a spill over effect, and nearby communities have benefited from the donations initially directed to Malapascua.

A pelagic thresher shark (Alopias pelagicus) circles a cleaning station at Monad Shoal, a popular dive site near Malapascua Island, Philippines. Every morning these sharks gather at this sea mount to get cleaned at the various cleaning stations. This has turned into a mayor tourist attraction and has helped the locals a lot with rebuilding and recovering after Typhoon Yolanda (Haiyan) destroyed the island on November 8. 2013.
The Shark Spa
Monad Shoal is a seamount rising 250 m from the sea floor (N 11° 19’ 06.7”, E 124° 11’ 31.9”), 8 km due east from Malapascua Island. The top of the mount forms a plateau at 15 meters to 25 meters depth, with a surface area of 4.5 km2. The low profile Acropora coral community is now degraded and dominated by rubble, caused by decades of scuba divers trampling on the reef. Recreational divers visit the seamount to observe thresher sharks and manta rays on most days. In fact it is the only known place in the world that these thresher sharks come in shallow waters almost on a daily basis.
Studies have shown that thresher shark-cleaner fish interaction peaks in the early morning when cleaners’ guts are empty. Therefore the habitat where the cleaners are living is very important and requires much protection.
Game Changers
Project Sharklink, a non-stock non-profit, non-government organization was set up due to the immediate need to arouse, organize and mobilize the local community of the island. A community based-organization that mobilizes local stakeholders for environmental conservation, a collaborative project that aims to conduct socio economic studies, and undertake a collaborative project to define characteristics of cleaning stations that support services for mixed and exclusive elasmobranch clients on Monad Shoal. As a catalyst, Project Sharklink lobbies for policy and its enforcement in the auspices of the town. One of its landmark contributions was the creation of the country’s first shark and ray sanctuary. The organization was also the front line in the campaigns for the protection of the thresher sharks on a national and global scale.
Project Sharklink encourages sustainable management of natural resources, such as freshwater, on the island by all its local and transient inhabitants. These measures are aimed at increasing awareness in the local community of the importance of maintaining these resources in a way that is compatible with the burgeoning development of on-site tourism facilities. Project Sharklink also aims to support its growing tourism industry through supplemental livelihood programmes. These livelihood programmes should empower locals to create a source of income where all profits can be channelled back directly to themselves and benefit their community.
A YES for the Threshers
With the vote of 108 in favor, 29 against, and 5 abstentions, the listing of the thresher sharks on Appendix II of CITES (Convention of International Trade in Endangered Species of Flora and Fauna) was adopted during the plenary on October 4, 2016. The parties have agreed to a 12- month delay in the implementation period, the listing of all the three species of thresher sharks on Appendix II means sustainability must be proven before international trade is permitted. Given this listing, thresher sharks are now automatically protected under its Amended Fisheries Code.
This was a great victor not just for the shark but also for the community that thrives to keep them alive. The global protection of these sharks means a generation of food and economic security not just for this small community but also for the entire country.
Heroes of Fortune
Migo sa Iho (Friends of Sharks) is a group of volunteer fishermen, who work tirelessly to protect Malapascua’s marine resources. They are the fish wardens whose motivation goes beyond what they will get after a day’s work. They understand clearly the importance of protecting these resources, to protect it not just because they will get food on their table but also for the generations to come. What started as a bold experiment by a few dive managers and operators to put two guys in a small boat in Monad Shoal at night grew into a full grown community of shark protectors.
In 2014, Save Philippine Seas with the help of Project Sharklink, organized forty-five fishermen as fish wardens for the entire municipality, fifteen of those is from Malapascua Island. They were sanctioned and deputized to legally apprehend illegal poachers by the Local Government Unit and the Bureau of Fisheries. To sustain its operation on the island, the Malapascua Marine Preservation Fund helped in the purchase of 3 floating assets, one is to be stationed in Monad Shoal around the clock, seven days a week and two small boats patrolling around the island. They have countless of apprehensions at sea, even risking their lives by getting shot at by illegal poachers at times.
A Call to Action
Malapascua is a story in itself, its people and its sharks are the main characters. The work on conservation around the island doesn’t stop until every community in the country realizes the importance of its rich marine biodiversity. It is an example of a whole community working together in science, education, and policy implementation. A tiny island that sets as example of a public-private partnership that takes a generation to build with the thresher shark as its common denominator. The locals working together to put environmental and tourism safeguards in place to ensure that we will have tails – and tales – to see for the present and future generations.
Dennis Bryan Bait-it (b. 1983, Philippines) is a certified PADI Dive Instructor and a Dive Resort Operations Manager. He is also a co-founder and the Executive Director of Project Sharklink – a community-based organization that mobilizes stakeholders for environmental conservation. Project Sharklink aims to promote sustainable tourism, environmental education and local law enforcement. It is composed of a multi disciplinary organization that conducts scientific studies, educational programs and community building.
Dennis grew up in a family of visionaries and helping people in need runs in his blood. His grandfather rose from being part of a fish boat crew to owning fleets of fishing boats and other businesses. In doing so, he helped a lot of small fishermen to have their own business and improve their lives. His grandfather’s legacy still lives on in a small town of Cawayan, Masbate.
Growing up beside the ocean, Dennis saw how the bounty of the ocean has been beneficial to his family and how it was exploited over the years. He also saw illegal fishing activities, and the politics behind the rape of the ocean. Hence, he made it his life commitment to protect the ocean. He believes that by protecting the ocean the lives of the people will improve.
He graduated with an AB Sociology degree at the University of San Carlos in Cebu. His graduation thesis is about the “palupad” industry, a mini trawl fishing method that scrapes the ocean floor. The thesis also talks about the environmental implications and contrasting perspectives among residents and the local government unit. After graduation, he worked for numerous archaeological and research assistant jobs in Cebu and Bohol -from cultural heritage conservation to terrestrial and marine environment conservation.
He eventually landed a job in Malapascua Island after collaborating with Divelink Cebu owner Gary Cases in an environmental solutions company. The company strives on the establishment of marine protected areas in the country. When the managerial position was offered to him, he took on the challenge with the vision of improving the facility: a facility offers not only a safe diving education, but that has also the mission to care for and protect the environment. From then on, he was responsible for managing not just the dive operations, but also numerous people’s organization in the island.
He first organized the Malapascua Dive Guides and Boat Crew Association, and later on helped establish “Migo sa Iho” (friends of sharks). The dive guides association, as front liners of the diving industry, makes sure that the rules and regulation to protect the environment are ensured and the friends of sharks guarantees that illegal fishing activities are deterred. With the help of the Malapascua Marine Preservation Fund, a group of dive resort managers and owners, these projects were implemented.
He also crafted various landmark legislations with the help of scientists and non government organizations. One particular legislation was the creation of the first shark and ray sanctuary in the Philippines, in Monad Shoal and Gato Island.
Last year, Dennis was invited to speak for the protection of the thresher sharks at the CoP 17 of CITES, in South Africa. He talked about how the thresher sharks helped the local community of Malapascua recover faster than any other parts of the country after typhoon Haiyan. The world agreed and voted for the three species of thresher sharks to be included in Appendix II.
Feature Destination
Feature Destination: A Conservationist’s Reflection on Family, Biodiversity, and Restoration in Costa Rica
Costa Rica is one of the few countries I’ve returned to repeatedly over the last twenty or so years. Each visit has reinforced why this small Central American nation continues to hold a special place in my heart. As a conservationist, I’ve long admired its bold environmental policies, its ability to restore vast areas of degraded land, and the extraordinary biodiversity that thrives here. But what draws me back just as strongly is the feeling that Costa Rica gives you: the quiet assurance that another world is possible, one where people and nature can coexist with purpose and respect.
I had the chance to experience Costa Rica in a new way, traveling with three generations of my family. My husband, my sister and her family, and our aging parents all came together for what we knew would be a once-in-a-lifetime trip. My sister chose Costa Rica not only because of its beauty, but also because it felt manageable for a multigenerational vacation. It’s safe, accessible, and well set up for travelers of all ages. We also understood it would be expensive, but for the chance to travel together as a full family, the investment was worth it.
We started our journey in San José, where my husband and I stayed in a homestay with a Costa Rican grandmother. She greeted us with warmth, fed us incredible meals, and gave us our first taste, quite literally, of the hospitality this country is known for. From there, we headed to Quepos on the Pacific coast, where my sister had rented an Airbnb home. It was the perfect setup with a space for all of us to gather, cook, relax, and look out over a small deck that faced what appeared to be pure jungle. The view was mesmerizing. We later learned that only a few decades ago, the entire landscape had been logged and used for farmland or extraction. But thanks to Costa Rica’s climate and commitment to restoration, nature had returned with full force. You’d never know it had once been stripped bare.
Every morning, we gathered on that deck before sunrise with coffee in hand to watch the forest awaken. Birds darted through the trees: tanagers, flycatchers, motmots, flickering colors between the leaves. For a family of nature lovers, those quiet hours became some of the most meaningful and memorable moments of the entire trip.
Quepos gave us easy access to both the coast and the rainforest. We hiked in the nearby parks, explored waterfalls, we stumbled on eco-tours of chocolate-making, coffee farming, and sustainable agriculture. The excursions were varied and accessible. Canopy walks, guided nature trails, and small boat rides. Costa Rica’s dynamic geography from the mountains, coasts, volcanoes, and rainforests means you don’t have to travel far to experience completely different ecosystems.
Although my husband and I skipped diving this time to stay together as a family, we did take a longer boat ride to a more remote patch of primary forest. I believe we were on the edge of the Osa Peninsula or near Corcovado National Park, which is known as one of the most biologically intense places on Earth. The experience reminded me again how rare it is to be able to witness truly untouched rainforest.
Every meal we ate was exceptional. With such a strong agricultural foundation, the food was consistently fresh, flavorful, and locally grown. Pineapple, avocado, coffee, papaya, rice, and beans, all vibrant and prepared with pride. Costa Rica’s commitment to sustainable agriculture shows in the taste of what ends up on your plate.
Beyond the beauty and comfort, what continues to impress me most is Costa Rica’s national commitment to conservation. Despite being only about 51,000 square kilometers in size, Costa Rica is home to more than 500,000 species, about 5% of the world’s biodiversity, thanks to its location at the intersection of North and South America. The diversity includes iconic species like the resplendent quetzal (Pharomachrus mocinno), Baird’s tapir (Tapirus bairdii), jaguars (Panthera onca), and endangered sea turtles like the green sea turtle (Chelonia mydas), which nests on the Caribbean coast in places like Tortuguero National Park.
Costa Rica has not only preserved what it has, it has reversed damage from generations of less sustainable development. In the 1980s, deforestation was rampant, with forest cover reduced to about 21%. But thanks to a range of government policies, including the 1997 launch of the Payment for Environmental Services (PES) program, forest cover has increased to over 50% as of the 2010s, and as of 2022 forests covered approximately 60.1% of the country’s land area, according to the World Bank. The PES program rewards landowners for keeping forests intact, recognizing the economic value of ecosystem services such as carbon capture, water filtration, and biodiversity protection. Much of this work is administered through MINAE (the Ministry of Environment and Energy), and its subsidiary agencies like SINAC, FONAFIFO, and CONAGEBIO.
The country has also turned its attention toward marine conservation, with over 30% of its territorial waters now designated as marine protected areas (MPAs). These include coral reefs, mangroves, and marine corridors vital for species like sharks, whales, and sea turtles. Organizations like the MarViva Foundation have been instrumental in managing these MPAs, particularly around the Eastern Tropical Pacific.
Folks from Costa Rica, also called Ticos, have the reputation of being affectionately warm, proud, and deeply connected to the land. You quickly learn the phrase “Pura Vida” is more than a slogan. It’s a mindset, an expression of gratitude, resilience, and appreciation for life’s simple gifts. It’s said as a greeting, a farewell, a thank-you, and always with a smile.
Traveling here, you’ll find that Costa Rica is not only logistically easy, but emotionally and intellectually enriching. Whether you’re a solo traveler, a couple, or a multigenerational family like us, there’s something for everyone. The country is incredibly welcoming to people of all backgrounds, and it’s one of the safest places in Central America to visit.
If you’re planning a trip, the best advice is to decide what kind of experience you’re looking for. Do you want to immerse yourself in the jungle? Lounge on the beach? Explore volcanoes? Stay in a city and do day trips? Or do a bit of everything? There’s no single way to “do” Costa Rica. You can rent a car or rely on shuttle services. Stay in a city hotel, a remote eco-lodge, or a beachside Airbnb. It’s all possible.
Here are a few key regions to consider:
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Central Valley (San José and surroundings): Cultural sites, museums, and access to volcanoes and cloud forests.
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Pacific Coast (including Quepos and Manuel Antonio): National parks, beaches, and adventure tourism.
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Caribbean Coast (like Puerto Viejo and Tortuguero): Afro-Caribbean culture, nesting turtles, and rich biodiversity.
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Northern Plains (Arenal and La Fortuna): Hot springs, waterfalls, and volcanoes.
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Southern Zone (Osa Peninsula and Corcovado): Pristine rainforest, rare species, and incredible biodiversity.
VisitCostaRica.com is the official tourism website and a helpful starting point for researching regions, accommodations, and activities.
For us, this trip was a chance to reconnect, not just with each other, but with the natural world. Costa Rica has a way of doing that. When you’re surrounded by howler monkeys at dawn, or listening to rain fall onto leaves the size of couch cushions, or catching a glimpse of a toucan in flight, you remember what it feels like to be part of something ancient and alive.
And in a world where conservation so often feels like a losing battle, Costa Rica shows what can be achieved when a nation decides to prioritize nature, not just in words, but through action.
Feature Destination
Feature Destination: The Most Awe-Inspiring National Parks in Latin America
Feature Destination
Feature Destination – Journeys With Purpose: Restoring Island-Ocean Ecosystems in Palau
Visiting Palau has been one of the most remarkable and affirming experiences of my life. Spending hours in the ocean observing turtles, sharks, rays and a host of other marine species, including cuttlefish changing colour and form to their immediate environment, has proven to be one of the greatest joys and wonders in the world.
I grew up watching and entranced by the TV series ‘The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau’. Such was the impression Cousteau’s series made on me, as a very young child my first pet was called ‘Calypso’, after his fabled research vessel. My experiences in Palau brought back these vivid memories directly. With a particular snorkelling experience on this journey, a fellow traveller commented that this must be “the day you fell in love with sharks” – and it truly was.

Throughout the course of the last 12+ months, Journeys With Purpose has worked alongside the world-class organisations of Island Conservation and Scripps Institution of Oceanography, in association with Re:wild, on a ‘Restoring Island-Ocean Ecosystems’ journey to champion and support the Island-Ocean Connection Challenge (IOCC).
The IOCC aims to restore at least 40 globally significant island-ocean ecosystems from ridge to reef by 2030 to benefit people, wildlife and our planet. This goal is delivering tangible action and successes, and signifying more widely the essential connection between island health and ocean health. Holistically restoring islands delivers outsized benefits for wildlife, oceans, people and climate impacts.
Key IOCC messages:
- Healthy oceans need healthy islands
- island and marine ecosystem elements cycle into one another, sharing nutrients vital to the plants and animals within them. Invasive species damage these fragile ecosystems and work to remove these in order to restore balance and endemic species such as the Megapode bird is vital.
- Everything is connected – Indigenous Peoples and local communities know this
- Indigenous Peoples and local communities have long understood and managed their natural resources in the context of island-to-sea connections. As Wayne Andrew, Micronesia Director of OneReef says “Community is not people alone. Community is a place, the reef. The respect of all that is so important”. This is rooted in their traditional knowledge and wisdom, including ancient oral stories such as the “Megapode Bird and Hawksbill Turtle”. It is essential to support local leadership and communities in the decisions they wish to make to protect these vital ecosystems.
- Collaboration is essential
- taking a collective approach to sustainable science and the importance of collaboration with local communities to achieve more holistic results.
- Emerging Science and Impact Monitoring
- global scalability of work informed by science. Emerging research shows people, wildlife and marine environments benefit when island-ocean connections are restored.
- Islands are on the frontline of environmental crises
- a staggering 41% of critically threatened species are found on islands
- 27% of all languages come from island communities
- surrounding coral reefs are home to 25% of all marine life

We travelled with leadership from Palau’s local communities, Island Conservation, Scripps Institution of Oceanography and supporters of these organisations. The collective experience of our time with these communities, and snorkelling and diving, was quite remarkable – a true spirit of togetherness and bonding developed that we will treasure for the rest of our lives. And importantly to take forward into action.
My key takeaways are thus:
- People make Places
- this is never more true than in Palau. There are approximately 20,000 local inhabitants on Palau’s islands, and they demonstrate an incredible bond, cohesiveness and strength together. This is brilliantly encapsulated by the local Hatohobei community, who rejected sizeable bribes to thwart a significant illegal fishing operation – “… we’re doing it for our people, for the future generations.”
- Impact at Scale
- the Palau National Marine Sanctuary (PNMS), effective 1 January 2020 with support from the Palauan government and several NGOs, is one of the largest marine protected areas (MPA) in the world. It was the first MPA of its kind, protecting 80% of a country’s national waters in a fully protected no-take zone.
- the PNMS protects a vast array of marine life and unique geological features within its over 475,000 km2, an area larger than Germany, Japan, Iraq, Sweden, etc. Eight hundred marine vertebrate species call the PNMS home, including nearly 30 different marine mammals and 60 shark and ray species, though these numbers are likely underestimated, as the biodiversity of the PNMS remains understudied.
- all achieved with the spirit of just 20,000 Palauans.
- Be Brave
- as above, the Palauans have been incredibly brave in their approach with their communities, natural environment and ambition. Very sadly, this is not the norm around the world, but is, however, a lesson for us all – trust our hearts and do the right thing to help deliver today a viable future. We must turn the currency of hope into the currency of action.

I have observed these three takeaways in the great conservation and rewilding endeavours around the world. It can be done. I urge us all, in the strongest possible manner, to support the work of the people of Palau, Island Conservation and Scripps Institution of Oceanography – brilliant people, doing brilliant work, in brilliant places. My eternal gratitude to our partners and supporters on this journey, and in particular to the exceptional dedication, hospitality and warmth of our local Palauan partners at Island Conservation Palau, Ebiil Society, OneReef, Koror State DCLE (Department of Conservation and Law Enforcement), Ngarchelong State Rangers and many others. Palau, officially the Republic of Palau, is an island nation in the Micronesia region of Oceania in the western Pacific, comprising an archipelago of over 350 islands. Little known to many of us, it is one of the most remarkable ecosystems and communities on Earth. Please connect here – connect@journeyswithpurpose.org – to understand how you can contribute, and visit Palau.
GET IN TOUCH TO START YOUR JOURNEY
A tribute to the people of Palau:- in memoriam to Prince LeeBoo of Palau, 1763 to 1784.
With the consent of his father King Ibedul of Koror, Prince LeeBoo departed Palau with Captain Henry Wilson and the crew of the Antelope to London, England on 12 November 1783. Whilst in London, Prince LeeBoo became Palau’s de facto ambassador of goodwill to England, and a scholar. However, LeeBoo’s plan of returning to Palau to spread knowledge and scientific discoveries to his people ended abruptly when the young prince succumbed to smallpox in the winter of 1784. The remains of Prince LeeBoo and his plans lay buried today in the courtyard of St. Mary’s church in Rotherhithe, London, England.
Despite the dilapidation of time, the spirit of Prince LeeBoo continues to live in the hearts of the people of Palau – their immense strength of community, positive impact and fortitude. His story, and purpose in life, remains widely told amongst the people of Palau today.
This article was retrived from Duncan’s Field Notes.
Journeys With Purpose offers immersive conservation and ethical travel experiences. Through private and hosted trips with pioneering conservationists, guests experience rewilding and restoring biodiversity in the wildest corners of the world. Our “Seven Worlds, One Planet” approach is a global curriculum focused on recovering and conserving vibrant landscapes, biodiversity, wildlife and livelihoods across all seven continents.
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