Feature Destination
Pacific navigator teaches sailors how to travel like their ancestors
Traditional navigator Peia Patai has trained Pacific Islanders from more than seven countries to become open ocean sailors since the Auckland-based Okeanos Maritime Training Program first began in February 2018. Captain Peia’s work is core to Okeanos Foundation for the Sea’s mission to empower islanders to regain control of their ocean transportation and create a network of fossil fuel-free sailing canoes operated by Pacific people servicing their remote island communities.

The Okeanos Vaka Motu, which translates to “boat for the islands,” was specifically designed for inter island transportation of people and cargo such as food, medicine and disaster relief. Okeanos Foundation currently operates vaka motus in Vanuatu (shown above), Marshall Islands, and the Northern Marianas; with more headed for Yap, Pohnpei, and Palau in 2019. Photo credit: Yorick Nicholls
Pacific countries such as Marshall Islands, Federated States of Micronesia, Vanuatu, Palau, and Kiribati are all threatened by sea level rise but are also heavily dependent on expensive and infrequent diesel-powered cargo ships.

Many outer island communities in the Pacific, such as this Vanuatu village, rely on subsistence agriculture and fishing. Many populations do not receive imported goods for months at a time. Photo credit: Natalia Tsoukala.
That is why Okeanos Foundation for the Sea is dedicated to building and transferring traditionally based, open ocean sailing canoes, called Vaka Motus, to Pacific islands where they will be operated with locally trained crews. Okeanos is also planning on transferring the open ocean sailing program to a Pacific island next year.
Captain Peia works tirelessly as Okeanos’ fleet commander and crew trainer preparing sailors to professionally and safely operate the vakas across the open ocean. Some crews have successfully ventured more than 4,000 nautical miles from Auckland, sailing Okeanos vakas to the Northern Marianas, the Marshall Islands, Kiribati and Micronesia.
The fifty-foot vaka motus are inspired by Captain Cook’s 18th Century drawings of Polynesian sailing canoes. Like the vakas of Peia’s Maori ancestors, the canoes have traditional crab-claw sails and double hulls bound together by rope lashings. For safety, efficiency, and reliability, the vaka motus are outfitted with modern hybrid engines that run on a combination of solar power and coconut biofuel. The vessel is even equipped with a desalination unit that produces 60 liters of potable water per hour.

All Okeanos sailing canoes are equipped with solar panels that power electric propellers when winds are low. Photo Credit: Natalia Tsoukala
“These vakas are a combination of traditional design and modern technology, merged together so that our people can run them,” says Captain Peia, who seeks to bring economic independence to islands that are otherwise reliant on expensive, imported fossil fuel. “That’s why I’m working so hard to get this opportunity – so that my people can benefit from it.”
The Okeanos vaka motus can carry up to three tons of cargo and 12 passengers, offering safe transportation to and from outer island communities.
Unlike western ships, the shallow draft of the vaka motu’s hulls can dock directly on the beach providing immediate access to remote or cyclone damaged communities.

Captain Peia Patai (right) works with crew from Okeanos Vanuatu (from left to right) Willy Dane, John Damilip, Joshua Tavo, Edwin Jeffery & Melvin Tom. In addition to instructing at Auckland’s Maritime Training Program Peia does regular “check ups” on crews to ensure they are operating according to Okeanos Procedures. Photo Credit: Dena Seidel.
A LEGACY IN VOYAGING Rarotonga-native Peia Patai was first introduced to traditional voyaging in Hawaii in 1991. He was taught by Nainoa Thompson, the first Hawaiian to captain a traditional Polynesian canoe on the open-ocean in centuries, along with Pwo Master Navigator Mau Piailug, the Micronesian seafarer who is credited for sparking the Pacific voyaging renaissance after successfully sailing the maiden voyage of Hawaiian canoe, Hokulea, in 1976.

Peia training on Hawaiian canoe, Hokulea, the first traditionally designed Pacific vaka to sail the open-ocean in over a century. Photo provided by Peia Patai.
Under Nainoa and Papa Mau, Peia trained in Wayfinding, the ancient art of navigating the open-ocean using only the stars, clouds, wind, waves and other patterns of nature. Since the sacred practice of Wayfinding had been lost for centuries throughout Polynesia, Peia’s chance to learn traditional navigation was an opportunity of a lifetime.
In 2011, Peia put his Wayfinding skills to the test and captained Cook Island traditional canoe Marumaru Atua during the Okeanos-sponsored Te Mana o Te Moana voyage – an unprecedented two-year voyage where hundreds of first time sailors traversed hundreds of thousands of nautical miles around the Pacific. Peia served as one of the lead navigators to teach young sailors in Wayfinding, some of which had never before stepped foot on a vaka, let alone sailed one without compass or map.

The seven vakas of Te Mana o Te Moana collectively traveled 210,000 nautical miles around the Pacific. Above the fleet crosses under the San Francisco bridge to spread messages of Pacific cultural revival and ocean conservation. Photo Credit: Mark Hoffman
During Te Mana o Te Moana, Peia received the sacred position of Pwo – the sacred Micronesian ceremony that deems sailors as master navigators; a highly coveted title only shared among a handful of Wayfinders in the Pacific, including Peia’s mentors, Nainoa and Mau.

Captain Peia Patai receiving the sacred Micronesian title of Pwo in a ceremony performed in Hawaii. The coveted role comes with duties to care and protect one’s community and environment. Photo Credit: Rui Camilo.
“Receiving Pwo comes with responsibility,” explains Peia. “The responsibility is to pass this knowledge on to future generations so that our traditions are never lost again.”

Peia and the hundreds of sailors ended their two-year Te Mana o Te Moana voyage at the Pacific Arts Festival in the Solomon Islands where the crew was greeted by a number of traditional performances, including these Easter Island Rapa Nui dancers. Photo Credit: Natalia Tsoukala.
SAILOR, NAVIGATOR, TEACHER
The responsibility of Pwo is what drives Peia through his seemingly daunting workload in Auckland today. As the commander of the Okeanos vaka motu fleet and head of the Okeanos Maritime Training Program, Peia is ensuring the future of traditional Pacific sailors.
When Peia is not overseeing the construction of the next vaka motu, he is teaching seamanship courses to an international body of students. The Okeanos Maritime Training Program offers a range of trainings to ensure the safety and quality of vaka motu operations. It was created with the intent of giving compulsory training for all crew working on Okeanos Vakas with a secondary course dedicated to comprehensive knowledge of Okeanos standards, procedures, and leadership.
According to Okeanos Foundation’s philosophy, the trainings are based on hands-on practical learning on the vaka, backed up by a theoretic approach in the classroom. The theoretical training also includes the study of the Okeanos Safety and Training Manual; participation in firefighting classes; knowledge of basic knots and anchoring, beacons (e.g. marks and lights of boats at night) and basic route rules; a glossary of nautical terms; and preparation for rough seas, including emergency procedures and safety practices.
“This training gives us a solid basis on which we can build up our knowledge and skills” says Winnifa Mael, crew member from Vanuatu and among the first to graduate with a certificate in Seamanship from the Okeanos Marine Training Program. Winnifa and her crew members spent three months in Auckland to complete the course.

Captain Peia Patai (left) and Okeanos Foundation Chairman Dieter Paulman (right) celebrate Okeanos Vanuatu crewmember Winnifa Mael (center) receiving her Seamanship certificate at the Okeanos Maritime Training Center. Photo Credit: Dena Seidel
The Okeanos Maritime Training Program also supports sailors wishing to become captains of the vaka motus. At the end of 2018, sailing students from Vanuatu, Marshall Islands, Yap, Pohnpei, and the Marianas joined Captain Peia at the Okeanos Maritime Training Center to become captains of their respective Okeanos Vakas.

(From left to right) Captains-in-training John Damilip of Okeanos Vanuatu, Andrea Carr of Okeanos Marianas, Jerry Joseph of Okeanos Marianas and Okeanos Waa’qab, Elmi Juonran of Okeanos Marshall Islands, and Joshua Tavo of Okeanos Vanuatu. Photo Credit: Christine Biesgen
The team sailed and serviced the new vakas currently in construction at Lloyd Stevenson Boatbuilders – the site where students learn everything from traditional lashing to the carving of the vaka’s paddle, or hoi, with the leadership of Captain Peia.

Vanuatu crew John Damilip (left) and Joshua Tavo (right) at the bow of the Vaka Motu during a training sail with other future Okeanos captains. Photo Credit: Christine Biesgen
Among the captains-in-training was Papa Mau’s very own grandson, Jerry Joseph. Once his training with Captain Peia is complete, Jerry will be responsible for delivering a newly constructed vaka back to the Federated States of Micronesia where it will stay to service outer island communities.
“It means a lot to bring the vaka motu to Micronesia – the place that has given me the gift of traditional navigation,” says Captain Peia, who is honored to train the grandson of his former mentor into Okeanos captainship. “Papa Mau would be very proud to see us passing on this knowledge to the next generation.”

Okeanos Marianas Watch Captain Jerry Joseph sails to Poluwat atoll – one of the old stomping grounds of his grandfather Mau Piailug. Jerry – along with other Okeanos Marianas crew – received Pwo on Poluwat, joining the ranks of master navigators Peia & Nainoa. Photo Credit: Steve Holloway
With the introduction of new captains to the vaka motu fleet, Peia hopes Okeanos Foundation will continue to support its pan-Pacific network of traditional canoes to service outer island communities and regain the ancient searoads for future sailors to come.
All Okeanos Training Courses require the students to pass theoretical exams of the different units and practical assessments at sea. The courses typically take 3 months for students to complete.
To learn more about the Okeanos Maritime Training Program, visit: https://okeanos-foundation.org/maritime-training-centre/
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Feature Destination
Feature Destination: A Conservationist’s Reflection on Family, Biodiversity, and Restoration in Costa Rica
Costa Rica is one of the few countries I’ve returned to repeatedly over the last twenty or so years. Each visit has reinforced why this small Central American nation continues to hold a special place in my heart. As a conservationist, I’ve long admired its bold environmental policies, its ability to restore vast areas of degraded land, and the extraordinary biodiversity that thrives here. But what draws me back just as strongly is the feeling that Costa Rica gives you: the quiet assurance that another world is possible, one where people and nature can coexist with purpose and respect.
I had the chance to experience Costa Rica in a new way, traveling with three generations of my family. My husband, my sister and her family, and our aging parents all came together for what we knew would be a once-in-a-lifetime trip. My sister chose Costa Rica not only because of its beauty, but also because it felt manageable for a multigenerational vacation. It’s safe, accessible, and well set up for travelers of all ages. We also understood it would be expensive, but for the chance to travel together as a full family, the investment was worth it.
We started our journey in San José, where my husband and I stayed in a homestay with a Costa Rican grandmother. She greeted us with warmth, fed us incredible meals, and gave us our first taste, quite literally, of the hospitality this country is known for. From there, we headed to Quepos on the Pacific coast, where my sister had rented an Airbnb home. It was the perfect setup with a space for all of us to gather, cook, relax, and look out over a small deck that faced what appeared to be pure jungle. The view was mesmerizing. We later learned that only a few decades ago, the entire landscape had been logged and used for farmland or extraction. But thanks to Costa Rica’s climate and commitment to restoration, nature had returned with full force. You’d never know it had once been stripped bare.
Every morning, we gathered on that deck before sunrise with coffee in hand to watch the forest awaken. Birds darted through the trees: tanagers, flycatchers, motmots, flickering colors between the leaves. For a family of nature lovers, those quiet hours became some of the most meaningful and memorable moments of the entire trip.
Quepos gave us easy access to both the coast and the rainforest. We hiked in the nearby parks, explored waterfalls, we stumbled on eco-tours of chocolate-making, coffee farming, and sustainable agriculture. The excursions were varied and accessible. Canopy walks, guided nature trails, and small boat rides. Costa Rica’s dynamic geography from the mountains, coasts, volcanoes, and rainforests means you don’t have to travel far to experience completely different ecosystems.
Although my husband and I skipped diving this time to stay together as a family, we did take a longer boat ride to a more remote patch of primary forest. I believe we were on the edge of the Osa Peninsula or near Corcovado National Park, which is known as one of the most biologically intense places on Earth. The experience reminded me again how rare it is to be able to witness truly untouched rainforest.
Every meal we ate was exceptional. With such a strong agricultural foundation, the food was consistently fresh, flavorful, and locally grown. Pineapple, avocado, coffee, papaya, rice, and beans, all vibrant and prepared with pride. Costa Rica’s commitment to sustainable agriculture shows in the taste of what ends up on your plate.
Beyond the beauty and comfort, what continues to impress me most is Costa Rica’s national commitment to conservation. Despite being only about 51,000 square kilometers in size, Costa Rica is home to more than 500,000 species, about 5% of the world’s biodiversity, thanks to its location at the intersection of North and South America. The diversity includes iconic species like the resplendent quetzal (Pharomachrus mocinno), Baird’s tapir (Tapirus bairdii), jaguars (Panthera onca), and endangered sea turtles like the green sea turtle (Chelonia mydas), which nests on the Caribbean coast in places like Tortuguero National Park.
Costa Rica has not only preserved what it has, it has reversed damage from generations of less sustainable development. In the 1980s, deforestation was rampant, with forest cover reduced to about 21%. But thanks to a range of government policies, including the 1997 launch of the Payment for Environmental Services (PES) program, forest cover has increased to over 50% as of the 2010s, and as of 2022 forests covered approximately 60.1% of the country’s land area, according to the World Bank. The PES program rewards landowners for keeping forests intact, recognizing the economic value of ecosystem services such as carbon capture, water filtration, and biodiversity protection. Much of this work is administered through MINAE (the Ministry of Environment and Energy), and its subsidiary agencies like SINAC, FONAFIFO, and CONAGEBIO.
The country has also turned its attention toward marine conservation, with over 30% of its territorial waters now designated as marine protected areas (MPAs). These include coral reefs, mangroves, and marine corridors vital for species like sharks, whales, and sea turtles. Organizations like the MarViva Foundation have been instrumental in managing these MPAs, particularly around the Eastern Tropical Pacific.
Folks from Costa Rica, also called Ticos, have the reputation of being affectionately warm, proud, and deeply connected to the land. You quickly learn the phrase “Pura Vida” is more than a slogan. It’s a mindset, an expression of gratitude, resilience, and appreciation for life’s simple gifts. It’s said as a greeting, a farewell, a thank-you, and always with a smile.
Traveling here, you’ll find that Costa Rica is not only logistically easy, but emotionally and intellectually enriching. Whether you’re a solo traveler, a couple, or a multigenerational family like us, there’s something for everyone. The country is incredibly welcoming to people of all backgrounds, and it’s one of the safest places in Central America to visit.
If you’re planning a trip, the best advice is to decide what kind of experience you’re looking for. Do you want to immerse yourself in the jungle? Lounge on the beach? Explore volcanoes? Stay in a city and do day trips? Or do a bit of everything? There’s no single way to “do” Costa Rica. You can rent a car or rely on shuttle services. Stay in a city hotel, a remote eco-lodge, or a beachside Airbnb. It’s all possible.
Here are a few key regions to consider:
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Central Valley (San José and surroundings): Cultural sites, museums, and access to volcanoes and cloud forests.
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Pacific Coast (including Quepos and Manuel Antonio): National parks, beaches, and adventure tourism.
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Caribbean Coast (like Puerto Viejo and Tortuguero): Afro-Caribbean culture, nesting turtles, and rich biodiversity.
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Northern Plains (Arenal and La Fortuna): Hot springs, waterfalls, and volcanoes.
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Southern Zone (Osa Peninsula and Corcovado): Pristine rainforest, rare species, and incredible biodiversity.
VisitCostaRica.com is the official tourism website and a helpful starting point for researching regions, accommodations, and activities.
For us, this trip was a chance to reconnect, not just with each other, but with the natural world. Costa Rica has a way of doing that. When you’re surrounded by howler monkeys at dawn, or listening to rain fall onto leaves the size of couch cushions, or catching a glimpse of a toucan in flight, you remember what it feels like to be part of something ancient and alive.
And in a world where conservation so often feels like a losing battle, Costa Rica shows what can be achieved when a nation decides to prioritize nature, not just in words, but through action.
Feature Destination
Feature Destination: The Most Awe-Inspiring National Parks in Latin America
Feature Destination
Feature Destination – Journeys With Purpose: Restoring Island-Ocean Ecosystems in Palau
Visiting Palau has been one of the most remarkable and affirming experiences of my life. Spending hours in the ocean observing turtles, sharks, rays and a host of other marine species, including cuttlefish changing colour and form to their immediate environment, has proven to be one of the greatest joys and wonders in the world.
I grew up watching and entranced by the TV series ‘The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau’. Such was the impression Cousteau’s series made on me, as a very young child my first pet was called ‘Calypso’, after his fabled research vessel. My experiences in Palau brought back these vivid memories directly. With a particular snorkelling experience on this journey, a fellow traveller commented that this must be “the day you fell in love with sharks” – and it truly was.

Throughout the course of the last 12+ months, Journeys With Purpose has worked alongside the world-class organisations of Island Conservation and Scripps Institution of Oceanography, in association with Re:wild, on a ‘Restoring Island-Ocean Ecosystems’ journey to champion and support the Island-Ocean Connection Challenge (IOCC).
The IOCC aims to restore at least 40 globally significant island-ocean ecosystems from ridge to reef by 2030 to benefit people, wildlife and our planet. This goal is delivering tangible action and successes, and signifying more widely the essential connection between island health and ocean health. Holistically restoring islands delivers outsized benefits for wildlife, oceans, people and climate impacts.
Key IOCC messages:
- Healthy oceans need healthy islands
- island and marine ecosystem elements cycle into one another, sharing nutrients vital to the plants and animals within them. Invasive species damage these fragile ecosystems and work to remove these in order to restore balance and endemic species such as the Megapode bird is vital.
- Everything is connected – Indigenous Peoples and local communities know this
- Indigenous Peoples and local communities have long understood and managed their natural resources in the context of island-to-sea connections. As Wayne Andrew, Micronesia Director of OneReef says “Community is not people alone. Community is a place, the reef. The respect of all that is so important”. This is rooted in their traditional knowledge and wisdom, including ancient oral stories such as the “Megapode Bird and Hawksbill Turtle”. It is essential to support local leadership and communities in the decisions they wish to make to protect these vital ecosystems.
- Collaboration is essential
- taking a collective approach to sustainable science and the importance of collaboration with local communities to achieve more holistic results.
- Emerging Science and Impact Monitoring
- global scalability of work informed by science. Emerging research shows people, wildlife and marine environments benefit when island-ocean connections are restored.
- Islands are on the frontline of environmental crises
- a staggering 41% of critically threatened species are found on islands
- 27% of all languages come from island communities
- surrounding coral reefs are home to 25% of all marine life

We travelled with leadership from Palau’s local communities, Island Conservation, Scripps Institution of Oceanography and supporters of these organisations. The collective experience of our time with these communities, and snorkelling and diving, was quite remarkable – a true spirit of togetherness and bonding developed that we will treasure for the rest of our lives. And importantly to take forward into action.
My key takeaways are thus:
- People make Places
- this is never more true than in Palau. There are approximately 20,000 local inhabitants on Palau’s islands, and they demonstrate an incredible bond, cohesiveness and strength together. This is brilliantly encapsulated by the local Hatohobei community, who rejected sizeable bribes to thwart a significant illegal fishing operation – “… we’re doing it for our people, for the future generations.”
- Impact at Scale
- the Palau National Marine Sanctuary (PNMS), effective 1 January 2020 with support from the Palauan government and several NGOs, is one of the largest marine protected areas (MPA) in the world. It was the first MPA of its kind, protecting 80% of a country’s national waters in a fully protected no-take zone.
- the PNMS protects a vast array of marine life and unique geological features within its over 475,000 km2, an area larger than Germany, Japan, Iraq, Sweden, etc. Eight hundred marine vertebrate species call the PNMS home, including nearly 30 different marine mammals and 60 shark and ray species, though these numbers are likely underestimated, as the biodiversity of the PNMS remains understudied.
- all achieved with the spirit of just 20,000 Palauans.
- Be Brave
- as above, the Palauans have been incredibly brave in their approach with their communities, natural environment and ambition. Very sadly, this is not the norm around the world, but is, however, a lesson for us all – trust our hearts and do the right thing to help deliver today a viable future. We must turn the currency of hope into the currency of action.

I have observed these three takeaways in the great conservation and rewilding endeavours around the world. It can be done. I urge us all, in the strongest possible manner, to support the work of the people of Palau, Island Conservation and Scripps Institution of Oceanography – brilliant people, doing brilliant work, in brilliant places. My eternal gratitude to our partners and supporters on this journey, and in particular to the exceptional dedication, hospitality and warmth of our local Palauan partners at Island Conservation Palau, Ebiil Society, OneReef, Koror State DCLE (Department of Conservation and Law Enforcement), Ngarchelong State Rangers and many others. Palau, officially the Republic of Palau, is an island nation in the Micronesia region of Oceania in the western Pacific, comprising an archipelago of over 350 islands. Little known to many of us, it is one of the most remarkable ecosystems and communities on Earth. Please connect here – connect@journeyswithpurpose.org – to understand how you can contribute, and visit Palau.
GET IN TOUCH TO START YOUR JOURNEY
A tribute to the people of Palau:- in memoriam to Prince LeeBoo of Palau, 1763 to 1784.
With the consent of his father King Ibedul of Koror, Prince LeeBoo departed Palau with Captain Henry Wilson and the crew of the Antelope to London, England on 12 November 1783. Whilst in London, Prince LeeBoo became Palau’s de facto ambassador of goodwill to England, and a scholar. However, LeeBoo’s plan of returning to Palau to spread knowledge and scientific discoveries to his people ended abruptly when the young prince succumbed to smallpox in the winter of 1784. The remains of Prince LeeBoo and his plans lay buried today in the courtyard of St. Mary’s church in Rotherhithe, London, England.
Despite the dilapidation of time, the spirit of Prince LeeBoo continues to live in the hearts of the people of Palau – their immense strength of community, positive impact and fortitude. His story, and purpose in life, remains widely told amongst the people of Palau today.
This article was retrived from Duncan’s Field Notes.
Journeys With Purpose offers immersive conservation and ethical travel experiences. Through private and hosted trips with pioneering conservationists, guests experience rewilding and restoring biodiversity in the wildest corners of the world. Our “Seven Worlds, One Planet” approach is a global curriculum focused on recovering and conserving vibrant landscapes, biodiversity, wildlife and livelihoods across all seven continents.
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