Issue 112 - September 2024
Easter Island, Hard Work & Good Cheer for a Changing Climate-Challenged World
The anchor chain clinked and clanked through the hawsehole on the Dutch tall ship Oosterschelde until the large anchor set into white coral sands turned periwinkle blue by clear ocean waters. At first light, the volcanic mountains of Rapa Nui (Easter Island) had stepped out of the mist, turning from blue to green as they loomed larger on the horizon.

Sailing from the North and due to high winds from the West, we were directed by the port authorities away from the town on the Western shore. Rapa Nui is shaped like a large triangle. The only town, Hanga Roa, exposed and without the protection of a harbor, takes the brunt of the Westerly winds. We approached a cove sheltered by high cliffs along the Northeast bend of the island. Anakena, the island’s only sandy beach, is where the first people landed. Here, we found flat waters harbored by the wind and waves.
Seven Moai statues turned their backs on us. Among the carefully cut and tightly fitted large stones forming the platform beneath the Moai was an old Moai head in a horizontal position looking our way. More than 2,000 miles from the nearest shore, the people of this far-flung land demonstrate remarkable determination and tenacity to overcome challenges, create art, and prosper.
The seven Moai, overlooking the land and not the sea, tell a story of two cultures uniting to work together. Navigators who hoisted tall masts and sails were one. The other was known for their work with stone. These statues, a significant part of the island’s history, were quarried, raised, and then walked by three teams of men working three lines lashed high, rocking the Moai one way, then the other. This unique collaboration between cultures resonates with the island’s history and people’s resilience.
The joining of stones in the platforms that raised the Moai was so exacting that a razor blade could not be fitted between them. Nowhere else in Polynesia are stones so perfectly fitted together. The precision and craftsmanship of the stonework on Rapa Nui, reminiscent of the stonework in Machu Pichu, was brought by people from South America. Standing up to 35 feet high, the Moai is a testament to the island’s mixed heritage, ingenuity, and skill.

Rapa Nui is located about 2,500 miles south of the Equator (27°7′S 109°22′W), where the climate is a cooler subtropical land instead of tropical. According to pollen records, it was once forested with various palms and broad-leafed trees standing more than 12 feet high. The Polynesians carried plants and animals to sustain them on new lands. Germinating coconuts would have died on Rapa Nui because the climate was too cold. Polynesians used coconut leaves for thatch, baskets, and husk fibers to make fishing lines and netting.
The first settlers brought yams, taro, sugar cane, bottle gourd, and sweet potatoes. Anakena, the oldest inhabited place on the island, is named after an extinct sandalwood shrub brought by the first Polynesians for its nutritious nuts and empty nutshells, which were used as toys. The sandalwood was aromatic and used to make perfume.
The only water on the island was in the three volcanoes’ steep-sided cratered centers, calderas. Because the volcanic rock is so porous, seawater seeped in, making the water brackish. People had to descend a steep trail into the volcano to collect water. Reeds grown in these wetlands were used for weaving. Not an indigenous plant, reeds were likely brought by the people from South America.
The population inhabiting Rapa Nui grew, and trees fell. By about 1550, the population had grown to 100,000. The great palm forests were gone. With the loss of trees, the biotic pump of evaporation, condensation, and leaves, which released bacteria and fungi into the air, was also lost. Water vapor nucleates around these organic particles to form mist and clouds. When this happens, air pressure drops to draw in more moist air from off the ocean. A drying wind replaced moist air, and forest lands became arid grasslands. The climate changed.

The intrepid islanders rallied to the challenge. Degraded soil needed tending, and plants required help before crops could grow. Much of the work done naturally by bacteria in concert with microbes in vast mycorrhizal networks with plants stopped. They turned to rock gardening because the volcanic tuff was high in essential trace metals and porous, able to hold water.
They turned to the centrally-located volcano, Rano Raraku. The tuff is a sedimentary rock made from layers of air-lain, partially fused, and partially cemented volcanic ash that was relatively easy to chip away at with a piece of harder basalt rock. The Rano Raraku tuff is high in trace metals like manganese, boron, and zinc, essential for plant growth. In the pools of water at the base of the quarry grew reeds from South America, a source of phosphorus for the soil.
The Moai statues were not gods. Rapa Nui gods were carved into rock faces on the highest points overlooking the sea. More than 50% of their diet came from the ocean. Their rituals celebrated seabirds, turtles, and other marine life. The Moai represent ancestors who were set up overlooking the fields and people. Cutting and sculpting rock was hard work. More than quarrymen, these were artisans. To paraphrase Michelangelo, every block of stone has an ancestor inside it, and the sculptor’s task is to discover it. Twelve to 50 men worked on one statue. The heads are over-large, often a three-to-five ratio of head to trunk. Each individual’s facial features are unique and frequently complimented by motifs. While at work and chipping away at an ancestor, they sang songs that have been passed down over the generations. Some, like sea shanties, have a cadence consistent with the rhythm of the work.
There are 887 Moai statues, more than 95% of which were made at the Rano Raraku quarry. After 500 years, they stopped working, leaving 397 Moai incomplete. Some statues were stopped because a vein of harder rock was revealed. There were possibly hundreds of families, each group working on their ancestor stone. Perhaps they stopped because they had restored the land with sufficient rock, metals, and minerals.
When the French visited Easter Island, they were astounded by the vitality and prosperity of the islanders. Major Rollin, a member of Jean-François de La Pérouse’s expedition, wrote: “Instead of meeting with men exhausted by famine… I found, on the contrary, a considerable population, with more beauty and grace than I afterwards met in any other island; and a soil, which, with very little labor, furnished excellent provisions, and in an abundance more than sufficient for the consumption of the inhabitants.”

The first Europeans found Rapa Nui on Easter Sunday, 1722. In a few decades, the Europeans’ diseases decimated the Rapa Nui population. In 1900, Chile sold most of the island to sheep corporations that paid the islanders to work and then charged them for food and household supplies. By the 1960s, the last indigenous plants were gone, such as the towering Rapa Nui palm and the flowering toromiro tree. Toromiro was the cherished wood that bore rongorongo inscriptions, a system of glyphs that have not been deciphered. The writing went in alternating directions, like a boat tacking back and forth to windward, first left to right and then right to left down the panel. A few pieces survive as evidence that the peoples of Easter Island invented a form of writing, further testimony to their capabilities and wisdom.
These were peaceful people who met Europeans, not with weapons, but with food offerings. Archaeologists report that less than 2% of examined skulls have fractures or holes, and that sharp knives and spears have traces of sweet potato but no blood. The islanders raised chickens and always let the eggs hatch.
On Easter Island, the loss of trees changed the climate. The islanders met the challenge by valuing a diversity of skills and resources brought by differing groups. They came together to tackle tedious, tiresome work (breaking rock) with good cheer. This resulted in thriving rock-mulching agriculture and a society “with more beauty and grace” that became the envy of others. It’s not how much work needs to be done; it’s how the job is done.

About The Author
Dr. Rob Moir is a nationally recognised and award-winning environmentalist. He is president and executive director of Cambridge, MA-based Ocean River Institute, a nonprofit providing expertise, services, resources, and information unavailable on a localized level to support the efforts of environmental organizations. Please visit www.oceanriver.org for more information.
More Articles by Dr. Moir
- Cooling Our Planet: New England’s Battle with Climate Change
- Land & Sea Change for Earth Day, Expanding The Climate Change Narrative
- The Earth and Three Blinkered Scientists
- Fallen Forests and Rising Ocean Fury
- What If There Was a Right Whale National Marine Sanctuary?
- Atlantic Ocean off Florida Spawns a Giant Sargassum Blob Due to Climate Change & Nutrient Pollution
- Emerald Bracelets to Solve Three of the World’s Greatest Environmental Problems
- Slowing Water for Greener Neighborhoods
- Put Down the Federal Stick to Build a Greener Future
- Of Mousy & Elephantine Cycles, Managing The Climate Crisis After Glasgow COP26
- Melting Greenland Ice Sheet, Sea Ice Formation, and the Flow of The Gulf Stream
- A Whale of a Pattern of Thought and Organizing Principle for Community-Based Environmental Management
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Issue 112 - September 2024
SEVENSEAS Travel Magazine – September 2024 – Issue 112

Easter Island, Hard Work & Good Cheer for a Changing Climate-Challenged World
The anchor chain clinked and clanked through the hawsehole on the Dutch tall ship Oosterschelde until the large anchor set into white coral sands turned periwinkle blue by clear ocean waters. Read more…
New Seamount & Previously Unknown Species Discovered in High Priority Area for International Marine Protection
A team of oceanographers led by Schmidt Ocean Institute has discovered and mapped a new seamount on the Nazca Ridge in international waters, 900 miles off the coast of Chile. Read more…
The Wildlife Photographer of The Year in Milan Will be Even More Special This Year
‘The most prestigious nature photography exhibition in the world, featuring the 100 winning shots from the 60th edition of the competition organized by the Natural History Museum in London, will be presented for the first time in Milan. Read more…
SEVENSEAS Media Takes a Stand Against Shark Fin Consumption in Thailand
Despite global awareness of the devastating impact of shark finning on marine ecosystems, the practice continues, driven by outdated traditions and misconceptions about status. Our campaign is dedicated to educating and empowering the younger generation to take charge of changing these harmful habits. Read more…
Guy Harvey Foundation Announces Educational Partnership with Florida Fin Fest
Guy Harvey Foundation (GHF), the non-profit organization that promotes marine conservation, funds innovative scientific research, and develops cutting-edge educational programs for students, has announced a partnership with Florida Fin Fest. Read more…
Announcing a New Partnership Between SEVENSEAS Media and Deep Sea Reporter
Together, by pooling our resources and expertise, we aim to amplify our shared message, that a healthy ocean is crucial to life on Earth. This collaboration enables us to reach broader audiences and present richer, more comprehensive content than ever before. Read more…
Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands; 3rd September 2024: It’s no secret that coral reefs and other ocean habitats are having a hard time as our planet faces unprecedented challenges and rapidly changing conditions. The need to protect and restore coral reefs has never been more urgent. The Central Caribbean Marine Institute (CCMI) is using the annual Festival of Seas gala in November as a way to prompt public interest in taking positive action for coral reefs at what is a critical time for the ocean. More info…
Feature Destination: The Cayman Islands
The Cayman Islands, a collection of three small but ecologically rich islands nestled in the Caribbean Sea, offer more than just a tropical escape. Known for their crystalline waters, vibrant coral reefs, and steadfast commitment to environmental preservation. Read more…
Calling All Photographers to Celebrate the Natural Beauty of the Cayman Islands
On June 7th, 2024, the Central Caribbean Marine Institute (CCMI) launched the Coral Reef Horizons photography competition, inviting photographers of all abilities to submit their images that celebrate the vibrant coral reefs of Cayman and the diversity of life that relies upon them. See more…
Feature Destination: Cayman Islands CCMI Festival of Seas
Join the Central Caribbean Marine Institute (CCMI) as we look toward the horizon, the future, and what it means for coral reefs. The heating and disease events of last summer suggest that the impacts of climate change on coral reefs are intensifying. Read more…
Guy Harvey and 4ocean Release New Limited Edition Product Line

Guy Harvey, world-renowned marine wildlife artist, scientist and conservationist, has once again partnered with 4ocean, a global leader in ocean cleanup, to introduce two limited edition t-shirts and a braided shark bracelet, available exclusively on 4ocean.com. Read more…
Guy Harvey Partners with Ukes USA to Launch Premium Sunglass Straps Collection

World-renowned marine wildlife artist, scientist and conservationist Dr. Guy Harvey, has partnered with Ukes USA, an innovative eyeglass retainer brand known for uniquely designed products in vibrant colors. See more…
Sustainable Tourism in Hawaii: How to Travel Responsibly
A unique natural oasis, the Hawaiian archipelago has been attracting leisure-seeking travelers for over a century. And this is not much of a surprise. Considering the attractiveness of the islands, coupled with a hefty marketing spend, Hawaii regularly tops the list of the most desired holiday destinations for US tourists. Read more…
Bait Ball Massacre – Under the Waves with Karim Iliya, September 2024

A sure death for this small fish, as the marlin jumped out of the water, spearing the little fish as it landed. Here, striped marlins congregate near a sea lion colony where they bring fish up from the depths, corral them into tight balls, and pick them off one by one. Read more…
Nominations For the 2025 Peter Benchley Ocean Awards™ Are Now Open!

Nominations for the prestigious Peter Benchley Ocean Awards™ are open now through November 18th. Often referred to as the ‘Academy Awards for the Ocean’, these honors commemorate Peter Benchley. Read more…
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If you are interested in contributing or getting involved, email Here.
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Issue 112 - September 2024
Nominations For the 2025 Peter Benchley Ocean Awards™ Are Now Open!

Nominations for the prestigious Peter Benchley Ocean Awards™ are open now through November 18th. Often referred to as the ‘Academy Awards for the Ocean’, these honors commemorate Peter Benchley, a lifelong advocate for sharks and ocean preservation and the renowned author of the iconic novel Jaws. Founded to recognize individuals across an array of fields that impact the ocean, the Peter Benchley Ocean Awards™ honor those providing innovative solutions to the challenges facing our ocean, ecosystems, wildlife, and climate. Award categories include:
- Excellence in National Leadership – Awarded to the representative of a nation that has made an exceptional contribution to the conservation, restoration, and appreciation of our global ocean.
- Excellence in Policy—Awarded to an individual who contributes to advancing the cause of sustainable ocean use and conservation based on the best available science and through the establishment of effective and enforceable laws and regulations.
- Excellence in Action—Awarded to a marine grassroots organization, team, or individual that has made a major and long-term commitment to improving the quality of our oceans and the communities that depend on them.
- Excellence in Science and Exploration—Awarded to an individual or organization that contributes to our understanding of the ocean through cutting-edge marine science and/or bold exploration and courageous efforts to uncover new and different aspects of our ocean planet.
- Excellence in Media – Awarded to an individual or media outlet that showcases an exceptional ability to communicate ocean issues of concern to the public in ways that inform and/or inspire people to act as engaged citizens.
- Excellence in Sustainable Business Solutions – Awarded to a business that helps find or create sustainable solutions to one of the many environmental challenges confronting our ocean.
- Christopher Benchley Youth Award – Awarded to a young person who, early in life, has already made a significant contribution to marine conservation and public education about our ocean.
- Ocean Hero—Awarded to an individual who shows exceptional ability in communicating ocean issues of concern to the public in ways that inform and/or inspire people to act.
The selection process for the Peter Benchley Ocean Awards™ is overseen by a respected committee of ocean conservation leaders, ensuring a fair and rigorous selection process that upholds the high standards and values of the awards. The 2025 Selection Committee includes:
- Wendy Benchley – Ocean Conservation and Policy Advocate
- Jasmin Grahm – CEO and Co-Founder, Minorities in Shark Sciences
- Dr. Sylvia Earle – Pioneering Oceanographer, National Geographic Explorer in Residence, and Founder of Mission Blue Sylvia Earle Alliance
- David Helvarg – Author, Founder and Executive Director, Blue Frontier
- Kim McIntyre – Executive Director, Aquarium Conservation Partnership
- John Racanelli – CEO, National Aquarium
- Sean Russell – Director of Youth Engagement, EarthEcho International
- Dr. Enric Sala – National Geographic Explorer in Residence
- Vikki Spruill – CEO, New England Aquarium
- ‘Aulani Wilhelm – Chief Strategy & External Relations Officer, Nia Tero
The Peter Benchley Ocean Awards™ mark their return in collaboration with the Aquarium Conservation Partnership (ACP) on May 1, 2025, at the National Aquarium in Baltimore, MD in time to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the original release of the movie Jaws. Past honorees can be found here.
About the Peter Benchley Ocean Awards™
The Peter Benchley Ocean Awards was co-founded by Wendy Benchley and David Helvarg and named in honor of Peter Benchley, author of Jaws and lifelong shark and ocean advocate. The Benchley Awards recognize and celebrate the work and dedication of individuals committed to ocean conservation excellence. https://peterbenchleyoceanawards.org/
About ACP:
The Aquarium Conservation Partnership is a coalition of aquariums working together to increase our conservation impact. Collectively, our 31 members in 21 states and Canada welcome over 35 million visitors a year. ACP members advocate for policy change, advance federal and state conservation policies, mobilize audiences to take action and demonstrate our commitment to conservation in our business practices. Our mission is to safeguard ocean and freshwater ecosystems by aligning and supporting the conservation efforts of aquariums for greater collective and individual impact. https://www.aquariumconservation.org/
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Conservation Photography
Bait Ball Massacre – Under the Waves with Karim Iliya, September 2024

A sure death for this small fish, as the marlin jumped out of the water, spearing the little fish as it landed. Here, striped marlins congregate near a sea lion colony where they bring fish up from the depths, corral them into tight balls, and pick them off one by one. I spent three days documenting these feeding frenzies- watching countless terrified fish caught in the frays of nature’s greatest challenge. Low on the food chain, the fish’s best hope of survival is in the safety of numbers, but when dozens of apex predators gather, that can be their downfall. Many times a bait ball of fish is hunted down to the very last fish, leaving only the shimmering scales floating in the blue.

A terrifying scene for the small fish, fleeing for their lives as a striped marlin hunts them. Here, the slightest mistake means life or death as the marlin’s bill slices through the water during a high-speed hunt. These fish have very little respite, as birds try to hunt from above, and more than a dozen other marlin and sea lions all attack the same small ball of fish. Marlin is one of the fastest fish in the world, a terrifying predator for a small fish in the great blue desert. | When photographing wildlife moving at high speed such as fish or birds, it’s important to use a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion.
Karim was published in National Geographic magazine for his humpback whale photography. He now leads his own trips so that others can swim with whales.
If you are interested in swimming with or photographing humpback whales, Karim guides people on small trips between August and October every year in Tonga. Visit www.dancewithwhales.com to find out more
To see more of Karim’s work, visit his website at www.karimphotography.com

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