Feature Destination
Commune with Penguins and Find Your Groove in the Galapagos: A DIY Guide for Families
By Carolyn Sotka
Concha de Perla, a quiet cove tucked away on Isabella Island in the Galapagos, easily lives up to its namesake ‘pearl shell’. Layers of iridescent blue mix with rays of sun, shifting sand and emerald mangroves. One early morning, hours before the tours from boats anchored offshore would arrive, my family and I walked to Concha de Perla from our hotel. We had our breakfast alongside sea lions sprawled out on the boardwalk, and watched as they began their day with lazy yawns and stretches.

Boardwalk to Concha de Perla
Not sure what to expect from our first snorkel, we were immediately surprised and awestruck. Huddled across the water on the black volcanic rock, sat three endangered Galapagos penguins. These penguins are very rare, second smallest in the world and the only species to live in the tropics, north of the equator. In a split second, they were shooting through the water beneath us like graceful bullets, targeting their morning prey.
When the penguins had their fill, we headed to the other end of the cove where a group of young sea lions were playing, completely nonchalant to our presence. We explored the labyrinth of surrounding mangroves, where saltwater meets fresh and the already ethereal world became even more dream-like. We soon found ourselves face to face with a marine iguana, with its spiky, dragon back and fierce stare down. But once this gentle herbivore started to swim with a wide doggy-paddle, our startled fear quickly subsided.

Snorkeling in Concha de Perla
Over the next two hours we swam with sea turtles, rays, diving seabirds and so many species of tropical fish it looked like an underwater field of blooming flowers. During that one morning, in one cove, on one island – it was clear why the Galapagos Islands were among the first sites chosen by UNESCO’s World Heritage Program as a critical and irreplaceable source of life, inspiration and outstanding universal value.
Later as the tours arrived, hordes of people jumped in like paparazzi to swarm the charismatic mega-fauna. Images of the comic strip ‘The Far Side’ came to mind, as tourists lay on bellies with huge cameras and lenses inches away from their subjects. But that morning it was all ours. And turns out several other mornings and quiet evenings too, when different species of marine life clocked into the cove, as if switching shifts over the course of the tides.

Fluffy baby penguin, Isabella Island

Penguin with Fish, Isabella Island
Say Yes to DIY
When planning our trip to the Galapagos, I prepared myself to be disappointed because of our DIY choice, which was the only way we could afford to visit the islands. Nearly everyone I spoke to felt you had ‘to do’ the Galapagos by boat or that you only get to see the ‘good stuff’ as part of an organized tour. Six-day cruises on most budget-level boats, which are quite small and bumpy, average $3,500 per person – including airfare from mainland Ecuador. It would cost our family of four about $14,000 in a best-case scenario.
My heart sank when we landed in Ecuador and saw Martha Stewart, dressed in white resort wear, collect her designer bags before being whisked to one of those fabulous cruises. I thought we were doomed – that VIP passes were the only ticket to one of the greatest shows on earth. But luckily nature doesn’t just show up just for high price ticket-holders, as we quickly discovered on our own.
Our seven-day DIY eco-tour cost $3,500 for our family of four and included Santa Cruz and Isabella Islands. Half of that cost covered airfare from mainland Ecuador, boat transfers between islands and national park entrance fees that you pay once – whether it is for a day or a month. The longer you stay, the bigger the bang for your buck.

Sea lions are everywhere – look but don’t touch!

Tortuga Bay, Santa Cruz Island
Why DIY is Better
DIY was the way to go, not just in the Galapagos, but also throughout the country of Ecuador. Kids ages eleven or under have big discounts in transport, tours and rentals that aren’t offered to the same extent on cruises with limited number of bunks. While the idea of being rocked to sleep for a week sounds romantic, the reality is kids are more susceptible to seasickness and can quickly tire of being stuck on a boat.
With DIY you are the tour guide and tailor to your needs. You don’t have to be held back by unsure travelers or force kids to eat from a pre-paid catered menu. Being on someone else’s clock can wreak havoc. When you are ready to escape and call it a day, you have the freedom to close the door and sleep in – so important for happy family travel.
Best of all, you can spend your time discovering something off the beaten path – like watching a soccer match or immersing your family in Saturday night’s social hour at the town square – when the universal language of play tames shyness and fast friends are made. Or meeting the little old lady who lived on the point next to Santa Cruz’s German Beach since she was six, and the inspiration for the beach’s name. You can’t get these experiences when you are on a boat-based tour.

Choose your own adventure, Galapagos Islands.

Exploring Santa Cruz Island
Another great reason to choose DIY is to keep money within the local economy. Many cruise-based operations are foreign-owned with a pipeline from the airport to the boat and specific vendors. Recent changes in policy of who can own businesses in the Galapagos may radically increase foreign investment. Choosing well-established eco-options, smaller hotels, local seafood and restaurants, shops with handmade gifts and island-based tours can be one way to contribute to and sustain a way of life that Galápagueños rely on.
There are several misconceptions about DIY travel in the Galapagos. One is you have to have a tour guide to do anything. Not true – there are special spots on every island for independent travel. On Isabella we rented bikes, rode through a cactus forest, saw a flock of flamingos, watched a giant land tortoise lumber along the trail and tucked amongst outcrops of rocks, stayed until night fell to watch hundreds of sea and shore birds during their seemingly private happy hour.

Flamingos, Isabella Island.

Sea lion, Isabella Island.

Marine iguana, Tortuga Bay
Maximize Your DIY
Many places do require national park guides but by booking a few short tours you can minimize cost and answer all your natural history questions. On our Los Tintoreras excursion – which was swimmable from land but restricted – we saw our first baby marine iguanas – so cute, smaller than the size of your hand and baby penguins –so fluffy and still that they looked like a sign post. We swam with sharks and snorkeled until our fingers and lips were blue. Our guide was incredibly knowledgeable and as excited as we were to see what the reef had in store that day.
On Santa Cruz, the Charles Darwin Research Center just re-opened in March 2016 after an extensive renovation. The pre-packaged tours sped through the beautiful center. Two college interns were stationed at the front desk and lamented that most people don’t stop to ask them questions. We chatted with them and other staff for hours and learned so much we would have never even thought to ask.

Charles Darwin Research Center, Santa Cruz Island
Throughout the islands, the national park guides were eager to share the natural history of this diverse mecca of marine life, which can be unique to each island. The bottom-line is that information is easily accessible; guides readily offer advice about best spots to view wildlife and have strongly embedded conservation and sustainability ethics, the cornerstones of protecting the islands’ future, to help you minimize your ecological footprint along the way.
Another misconception is that the populated islands are overrun with tourists. It is true that visitors have increased from 40,000 in 1990 to 225,000 in 2015 – yet hotel capacity on most of the islands is typically filled at 50% – meaning there is a need to support what is there and not invite outside businesses to attract or build more. There are laws in place to limit sprawl and allow the Galapagos National Park Service to close or modified sites that might suffer from overuse. But more often than not, we were totally alone, or repeatedly bumped into the handful of other solo travelers.
We came, saw and not conquered but communed with nature in such a relaxed and organic way that we will never forget. As the islands shrank in the wake of the boat, I was already planning our next trip. My biggest regret was that I didn’t book more time in the islands to visit San Cristobal and Fernandina or add an offshore tour to other remote islands. These extras might bump up the cost to around $5,000 for a ten-day, adventure for a family of four. DIY Galapagos will be a trip of a lifetime, blow your mind, not break the bank and leave you forever touched by the spirit of one of the most special places on earth.

Land of the marine iguanas, Las Tintoreras Islet.

Tortuga Bay, Santa Cruz Island.
Now Is the Time to Go!
A few helpful hints:
Pack reef-friendly zinc-based sunscreen and clothing protection, wet suits, seasickness bands, snorkel and mask (you can rent fins if space is a constraint). Practice with your gear before you go.
Pick hotel locations you can walk to, with a pool or other fun games for after hours and stay at least two – three days.
Ask hotel if you can book for a family, rather than per person. Many places list rooms for four but consider that to accommodate four adults.
Do not miss the parks! Ecuador does playgrounds better than any other country, with Smith Family Robinson- type play structures everywhere. Ecuador is very safe and health conscious.
Look for island-based tourism offices with day tours and rentals like mountain bikes, surfboards and kayaks.
Plan day excursions for no more than three – four hours and bring food/water.
Find where the locals eat, ask for the family-style meal – usually an inexpensive, delicious daily special.
Pick ferries and boat shuttles that are highly rated. Some of the cheaper ones have had safety issues in the past.
Fare shop with local airlines and look daily as rates often change – Tame, Latam, Avianca, Copa.
Carolyn Sotka is a marine biologist, writer and photographer with a passion for combining all three by traveling to remote islands and wild coasts. Her life goal is to visit every coastal country in world and so far has made it to nearly forty. She’s worked on ocean and coastal conservation issues for over twenty years and is co-author of a best selling book “The Death and Life of Monterey Bay: A Story of Revival”, recently showcased on PBS’ Big Blue Live. Check out www.carolynsotka.com for more travel stories.
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Feature Destination
Feature Destination: A Conservationist’s Reflection on Family, Biodiversity, and Restoration in Costa Rica
Costa Rica is one of the few countries I’ve returned to repeatedly over the last twenty or so years. Each visit has reinforced why this small Central American nation continues to hold a special place in my heart. As a conservationist, I’ve long admired its bold environmental policies, its ability to restore vast areas of degraded land, and the extraordinary biodiversity that thrives here. But what draws me back just as strongly is the feeling that Costa Rica gives you: the quiet assurance that another world is possible, one where people and nature can coexist with purpose and respect.
I had the chance to experience Costa Rica in a new way, traveling with three generations of my family. My husband, my sister and her family, and our aging parents all came together for what we knew would be a once-in-a-lifetime trip. My sister chose Costa Rica not only because of its beauty, but also because it felt manageable for a multigenerational vacation. It’s safe, accessible, and well set up for travelers of all ages. We also understood it would be expensive, but for the chance to travel together as a full family, the investment was worth it.
We started our journey in San José, where my husband and I stayed in a homestay with a Costa Rican grandmother. She greeted us with warmth, fed us incredible meals, and gave us our first taste, quite literally, of the hospitality this country is known for. From there, we headed to Quepos on the Pacific coast, where my sister had rented an Airbnb home. It was the perfect setup with a space for all of us to gather, cook, relax, and look out over a small deck that faced what appeared to be pure jungle. The view was mesmerizing. We later learned that only a few decades ago, the entire landscape had been logged and used for farmland or extraction. But thanks to Costa Rica’s climate and commitment to restoration, nature had returned with full force. You’d never know it had once been stripped bare.
Every morning, we gathered on that deck before sunrise with coffee in hand to watch the forest awaken. Birds darted through the trees: tanagers, flycatchers, motmots, flickering colors between the leaves. For a family of nature lovers, those quiet hours became some of the most meaningful and memorable moments of the entire trip.
Quepos gave us easy access to both the coast and the rainforest. We hiked in the nearby parks, explored waterfalls, we stumbled on eco-tours of chocolate-making, coffee farming, and sustainable agriculture. The excursions were varied and accessible. Canopy walks, guided nature trails, and small boat rides. Costa Rica’s dynamic geography from the mountains, coasts, volcanoes, and rainforests means you don’t have to travel far to experience completely different ecosystems.
Although my husband and I skipped diving this time to stay together as a family, we did take a longer boat ride to a more remote patch of primary forest. I believe we were on the edge of the Osa Peninsula or near Corcovado National Park, which is known as one of the most biologically intense places on Earth. The experience reminded me again how rare it is to be able to witness truly untouched rainforest.
Every meal we ate was exceptional. With such a strong agricultural foundation, the food was consistently fresh, flavorful, and locally grown. Pineapple, avocado, coffee, papaya, rice, and beans, all vibrant and prepared with pride. Costa Rica’s commitment to sustainable agriculture shows in the taste of what ends up on your plate.
Beyond the beauty and comfort, what continues to impress me most is Costa Rica’s national commitment to conservation. Despite being only about 51,000 square kilometers in size, Costa Rica is home to more than 500,000 species, about 5% of the world’s biodiversity, thanks to its location at the intersection of North and South America. The diversity includes iconic species like the resplendent quetzal (Pharomachrus mocinno), Baird’s tapir (Tapirus bairdii), jaguars (Panthera onca), and endangered sea turtles like the green sea turtle (Chelonia mydas), which nests on the Caribbean coast in places like Tortuguero National Park.
Costa Rica has not only preserved what it has, it has reversed damage from generations of less sustainable development. In the 1980s, deforestation was rampant, with forest cover reduced to about 21%. But thanks to a range of government policies, including the 1997 launch of the Payment for Environmental Services (PES) program, forest cover has increased to over 50% as of the 2010s, and as of 2022 forests covered approximately 60.1% of the country’s land area, according to the World Bank. The PES program rewards landowners for keeping forests intact, recognizing the economic value of ecosystem services such as carbon capture, water filtration, and biodiversity protection. Much of this work is administered through MINAE (the Ministry of Environment and Energy), and its subsidiary agencies like SINAC, FONAFIFO, and CONAGEBIO.
The country has also turned its attention toward marine conservation, with over 30% of its territorial waters now designated as marine protected areas (MPAs). These include coral reefs, mangroves, and marine corridors vital for species like sharks, whales, and sea turtles. Organizations like the MarViva Foundation have been instrumental in managing these MPAs, particularly around the Eastern Tropical Pacific.
Folks from Costa Rica, also called Ticos, have the reputation of being affectionately warm, proud, and deeply connected to the land. You quickly learn the phrase “Pura Vida” is more than a slogan. It’s a mindset, an expression of gratitude, resilience, and appreciation for life’s simple gifts. It’s said as a greeting, a farewell, a thank-you, and always with a smile.
Traveling here, you’ll find that Costa Rica is not only logistically easy, but emotionally and intellectually enriching. Whether you’re a solo traveler, a couple, or a multigenerational family like us, there’s something for everyone. The country is incredibly welcoming to people of all backgrounds, and it’s one of the safest places in Central America to visit.
If you’re planning a trip, the best advice is to decide what kind of experience you’re looking for. Do you want to immerse yourself in the jungle? Lounge on the beach? Explore volcanoes? Stay in a city and do day trips? Or do a bit of everything? There’s no single way to “do” Costa Rica. You can rent a car or rely on shuttle services. Stay in a city hotel, a remote eco-lodge, or a beachside Airbnb. It’s all possible.
Here are a few key regions to consider:
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Central Valley (San José and surroundings): Cultural sites, museums, and access to volcanoes and cloud forests.
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Pacific Coast (including Quepos and Manuel Antonio): National parks, beaches, and adventure tourism.
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Caribbean Coast (like Puerto Viejo and Tortuguero): Afro-Caribbean culture, nesting turtles, and rich biodiversity.
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Northern Plains (Arenal and La Fortuna): Hot springs, waterfalls, and volcanoes.
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Southern Zone (Osa Peninsula and Corcovado): Pristine rainforest, rare species, and incredible biodiversity.
VisitCostaRica.com is the official tourism website and a helpful starting point for researching regions, accommodations, and activities.
For us, this trip was a chance to reconnect, not just with each other, but with the natural world. Costa Rica has a way of doing that. When you’re surrounded by howler monkeys at dawn, or listening to rain fall onto leaves the size of couch cushions, or catching a glimpse of a toucan in flight, you remember what it feels like to be part of something ancient and alive.
And in a world where conservation so often feels like a losing battle, Costa Rica shows what can be achieved when a nation decides to prioritize nature, not just in words, but through action.
Feature Destination
Feature Destination: The Most Awe-Inspiring National Parks in Latin America
Feature Destination
Feature Destination – Journeys With Purpose: Restoring Island-Ocean Ecosystems in Palau
Visiting Palau has been one of the most remarkable and affirming experiences of my life. Spending hours in the ocean observing turtles, sharks, rays and a host of other marine species, including cuttlefish changing colour and form to their immediate environment, has proven to be one of the greatest joys and wonders in the world.
I grew up watching and entranced by the TV series ‘The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau’. Such was the impression Cousteau’s series made on me, as a very young child my first pet was called ‘Calypso’, after his fabled research vessel. My experiences in Palau brought back these vivid memories directly. With a particular snorkelling experience on this journey, a fellow traveller commented that this must be “the day you fell in love with sharks” – and it truly was.

Throughout the course of the last 12+ months, Journeys With Purpose has worked alongside the world-class organisations of Island Conservation and Scripps Institution of Oceanography, in association with Re:wild, on a ‘Restoring Island-Ocean Ecosystems’ journey to champion and support the Island-Ocean Connection Challenge (IOCC).
The IOCC aims to restore at least 40 globally significant island-ocean ecosystems from ridge to reef by 2030 to benefit people, wildlife and our planet. This goal is delivering tangible action and successes, and signifying more widely the essential connection between island health and ocean health. Holistically restoring islands delivers outsized benefits for wildlife, oceans, people and climate impacts.
Key IOCC messages:
- Healthy oceans need healthy islands
- island and marine ecosystem elements cycle into one another, sharing nutrients vital to the plants and animals within them. Invasive species damage these fragile ecosystems and work to remove these in order to restore balance and endemic species such as the Megapode bird is vital.
- Everything is connected – Indigenous Peoples and local communities know this
- Indigenous Peoples and local communities have long understood and managed their natural resources in the context of island-to-sea connections. As Wayne Andrew, Micronesia Director of OneReef says “Community is not people alone. Community is a place, the reef. The respect of all that is so important”. This is rooted in their traditional knowledge and wisdom, including ancient oral stories such as the “Megapode Bird and Hawksbill Turtle”. It is essential to support local leadership and communities in the decisions they wish to make to protect these vital ecosystems.
- Collaboration is essential
- taking a collective approach to sustainable science and the importance of collaboration with local communities to achieve more holistic results.
- Emerging Science and Impact Monitoring
- global scalability of work informed by science. Emerging research shows people, wildlife and marine environments benefit when island-ocean connections are restored.
- Islands are on the frontline of environmental crises
- a staggering 41% of critically threatened species are found on islands
- 27% of all languages come from island communities
- surrounding coral reefs are home to 25% of all marine life

We travelled with leadership from Palau’s local communities, Island Conservation, Scripps Institution of Oceanography and supporters of these organisations. The collective experience of our time with these communities, and snorkelling and diving, was quite remarkable – a true spirit of togetherness and bonding developed that we will treasure for the rest of our lives. And importantly to take forward into action.
My key takeaways are thus:
- People make Places
- this is never more true than in Palau. There are approximately 20,000 local inhabitants on Palau’s islands, and they demonstrate an incredible bond, cohesiveness and strength together. This is brilliantly encapsulated by the local Hatohobei community, who rejected sizeable bribes to thwart a significant illegal fishing operation – “… we’re doing it for our people, for the future generations.”
- Impact at Scale
- the Palau National Marine Sanctuary (PNMS), effective 1 January 2020 with support from the Palauan government and several NGOs, is one of the largest marine protected areas (MPA) in the world. It was the first MPA of its kind, protecting 80% of a country’s national waters in a fully protected no-take zone.
- the PNMS protects a vast array of marine life and unique geological features within its over 475,000 km2, an area larger than Germany, Japan, Iraq, Sweden, etc. Eight hundred marine vertebrate species call the PNMS home, including nearly 30 different marine mammals and 60 shark and ray species, though these numbers are likely underestimated, as the biodiversity of the PNMS remains understudied.
- all achieved with the spirit of just 20,000 Palauans.
- Be Brave
- as above, the Palauans have been incredibly brave in their approach with their communities, natural environment and ambition. Very sadly, this is not the norm around the world, but is, however, a lesson for us all – trust our hearts and do the right thing to help deliver today a viable future. We must turn the currency of hope into the currency of action.

I have observed these three takeaways in the great conservation and rewilding endeavours around the world. It can be done. I urge us all, in the strongest possible manner, to support the work of the people of Palau, Island Conservation and Scripps Institution of Oceanography – brilliant people, doing brilliant work, in brilliant places. My eternal gratitude to our partners and supporters on this journey, and in particular to the exceptional dedication, hospitality and warmth of our local Palauan partners at Island Conservation Palau, Ebiil Society, OneReef, Koror State DCLE (Department of Conservation and Law Enforcement), Ngarchelong State Rangers and many others. Palau, officially the Republic of Palau, is an island nation in the Micronesia region of Oceania in the western Pacific, comprising an archipelago of over 350 islands. Little known to many of us, it is one of the most remarkable ecosystems and communities on Earth. Please connect here – connect@journeyswithpurpose.org – to understand how you can contribute, and visit Palau.
GET IN TOUCH TO START YOUR JOURNEY
A tribute to the people of Palau:- in memoriam to Prince LeeBoo of Palau, 1763 to 1784.
With the consent of his father King Ibedul of Koror, Prince LeeBoo departed Palau with Captain Henry Wilson and the crew of the Antelope to London, England on 12 November 1783. Whilst in London, Prince LeeBoo became Palau’s de facto ambassador of goodwill to England, and a scholar. However, LeeBoo’s plan of returning to Palau to spread knowledge and scientific discoveries to his people ended abruptly when the young prince succumbed to smallpox in the winter of 1784. The remains of Prince LeeBoo and his plans lay buried today in the courtyard of St. Mary’s church in Rotherhithe, London, England.
Despite the dilapidation of time, the spirit of Prince LeeBoo continues to live in the hearts of the people of Palau – their immense strength of community, positive impact and fortitude. His story, and purpose in life, remains widely told amongst the people of Palau today.
This article was retrived from Duncan’s Field Notes.
Journeys With Purpose offers immersive conservation and ethical travel experiences. Through private and hosted trips with pioneering conservationists, guests experience rewilding and restoring biodiversity in the wildest corners of the world. Our “Seven Worlds, One Planet” approach is a global curriculum focused on recovering and conserving vibrant landscapes, biodiversity, wildlife and livelihoods across all seven continents.
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